Magzter Gold (Sitewide CA)

Magzter Gold (Sitewide CA)

Digital Delivery

Wine Enthusiast October 1st, 2022 Digital Back Issue Cover

Wine Enthusiast October 2022 (Digital)

(109)

Single Digital Issue

October 2022

$2.99

Powered By Zinio

Zinio

Satisfaction Guaranteed

Instant Start

Subscribe Instead

1 Year Subscription

9 digital issues

$12.99

($1.44/issue)

Go to Subscription

View Subscription Options

Also available on ZINIO Unlimited logo

Get unlimited access to Wine Enthusiast (Digital) + Back Issues & 5000+ other magazines

1-month free trial

Renews at $8.99/month after trial.
Cancel anytime.

Get unlimited access to Wine Enthusiast (Digital) + Back Issues & 5000+ other magazines. Renews at just $8.99/month after trial. Cancel anytime.

Start Trial Learn more

31 Articles

Wine Enthusiast

Jacqueline Strum EDITOR & PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR, PRINT John Capone TASTING DIRECTOR Anna-Christina Cabrales CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli EDITORIAL SENIOR EDITOR, PRINT Stacy Briscoe DIGITAL EDITOR Kristen Richard ASSISTANT EDITOR, DIGITAL J’nai Gaither ASSISTANT EDITOR, PRINT Jacy Topps EDITORIAL ASSISTANT, DIGITAL Jaime Brown CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, FOOD Nils Bernstein DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon DIGITAL VISUALS EDITOR Evan de Normandie DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena TASTING SENIOR EDITOR, TASTING Jim Gordon ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams SENIOR TASTING COORDINATOR Craig Chamberlain ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR Cody Wexler SOCIAL DIRECTOR OF SOCIAL MEDIA Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Marco Bruno COMMUNITY COORDINATOR Ruya Kirac WRITERS AT LARGE WINE Michael Alberty, Virginie Boone, Danielle Callegari, Mike DeSimone, Matt Kettmann, Christina Pickard, Jeff Porter, Emily Saladino, Layla Shlack, Jesica Vargas, Roger Voss, Aleks Zecevic SPIRITS Kara Newman BEER John Holl TRAVEL Lauren Mowery EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL ADVERTISING Greg Remillard ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Sherrill Flaum DIRECTOR OF CLIENT SUCCESS Emily Matson ADVERTISING SENIOR…

If you can’t find a community or a business you believe in, you have to build it yourself. Our annual list of 40 tastemakers takes a fresh form this year in the Wine Enthusiast Future 40. This year’s list opens the door with a wider lens on luminaries leading the industry in new directions. In doing so, we hope to highlight a truer picture of the folks shaping the way America drinks. Wine Enthusiast’s 2022 Future 40 list members show us, among other things, that if you can’t find a community or a business you believe in, you have to build it yourself. Creating exciting movements and welcoming opportunities in beverage is core to what this incredible group of people has in common. They’ve built everything from sports bars that play exclusively…

Out and About: Sips and Snaps Around the Globe

LA GIOIOSA Wine Enthusiast hosted an evening of bubbles from La Gioiosa and summer fun at Somewhere Nowhere. The intimate event consisted of trade, media, influencers and WE’s very own Jacki Strum, Jacy Topps and Sherrill Flaum. Special guest Maria Provenzano conducted a DIY presentation from her book, Everyday Celebrations from Scratch. WINE AND HIP HOP Presented by Clink Different, creator of the Wine and Hip Hop podcast Jermaine Stone hosted events in Atlanta Miami and LA in collaboration with the German Wine Institute and the Bordeaux Wine Council to promote these regions’ lesser-known wines. TASTE OF SANTA BARBARA Postponed by the pandemic in 2020 and limited in 2021, the Santa Barbara Culinary Experience (SBCE), in partnership with the Julia Child Foundation for Gastronomy and the Culinary Arts, returned in person with multiple events in…

Out and About: Sips and Snaps Around the Globe

I was born and raised in San Francisco, spent all four of my college years at UC Santa Cruz—and I’ve never smoked a joint. I’m basically a cannabis virgin. It’s simply never appealed. Then again, neither did wine the first time I tried it—a big bold Barolo from the heart of Italy was not to my 19-year-old syrupy-margarita-sipping palate. Somewhat similarly, my sole experience with cannabis—as an adult—did not go well. A small bite from a questionable rice crispy treat led me on a long walk. A walk that incorporated a wavy sunset (in mid-day), deep and interesting thoughts and a shark sighting (in a man-made reservoir). Long walk. Almost didn’t come back. (I did, in fact, eventually find my way home. Thank you, San Mateo taxi.) Obviously, my wine story has a happy ending.…

Pairology: Root Down

Ginger is an extrovert, making pairing both challenging and rewarding. Few flavors as brash as ginger also have its affability. Equally at home in savory, sweet and pickled dishes, both fresh and dried ginger have a chameleonic ability to take center stage without overshadowing the other players in the dish. It’s a perfect ingredient for fall, offering both warmth and brightness as the weather turns cold and dark. There’s a Chinese proverb, “薑還是老的辣”—older ginger is spicier, i.e. with age comes wisdom—which you should keep in mind when shopping, as the larger, older roots have stronger and better flavor. HEAT Ginger contains gingerol, a chemical that stimulates the tongue much in the way chilis do. Use the same wisdom as pairing with spicy food—low tannins and a touch of sweetness—with Vouvray labeled Tendre…

Pairology: Root Down

Q&A: Avant-Garde and Eco-Friendly

Combining natural, biodynamic and organic farming practices, VIK Winery has been committed to wine sustainability since it first opened in 2014. Located in the foothills of the Andes Mountains in Millahue, Chile, the state-of-the-art facility sits on 11,000 acres in the Cachapoal Valley. Walking toward the entrance of the modernist structure, guests will walk atop the “mirror of water”—just as aesthetically pleasing as it is functional, since this exterior walking path doubles as the roof to the barrel room, the water a natural form of temperature moderation. Inside the main facility, the glass floor overlooks the vines. The Chilean winery produces four estate wines, all Bordeaux-style blends, using science and technology to enhance the farming and winemaking process without any chemical intervention. In addition to their tech-savvy tools and dedication to sustainability, VIK…

Q&A: Avant-Garde and Eco-Friendly

Cocktail of Month: Candy Corn Grows Up

A loose interpretation of the tri-color candy staple, this autumnal drink has a distinct confectionary note. Apple cider, reduced on the stovetop to concentrate its fall harvest flavor, mixes with rye’s spice and orange liqueur, while an egg white* adds richness, echoing the creamy texture of candy corn. ADULT CANDY CORN Adapted from StripSteak by Michael Mina, Miami Beach, FL 1 ½ ounces rye whiskey½ ounce orange liqueur, such as Cointreau1 ounce apple cider reduction**½ ounce lemon juice1 egg white3 pieces candy corn, for garnish Shake all ingredients without ice, to emulsify the egg whites. Add ice and shake briefly again to chill. Strain into a coupe glass. Garnish with three pieces of candy corn speared on a metal pick (or served on the side). *This drink also works without the egg white, but it…

Cocktail of Month: Candy Corn Grows Up

All the treats—and a few clever tricks—give these cocktails in costume creepy flair. 1 TERROR FROM THE DEEP Steve Yamada, Latitude 29, New Orleans, LA Created by the tropical bar’s former head bartender, Steve Yamada, this drink was created for the bar’s annual “Spookilau” event—a take on Hawaii’s “Hukilau,” a traditional Hawaiian term (from huki, meaning pull, and lau, meaning leaves) that refers to people gathered to pull in fishing nets lined with leaves. It’s also the name of a dance that mimics the movements of the net pull and a popular exotica song. The ocean-blue drink lends itself to over-the-top presentation: At the bar, finishing touches have ranged from light-up ice cubes to whimsical mermaids and treasure chests set atop pop-rock “sand.” Gummy sharks might add a more macabre tone. 1 ½ ounces aged…

Recipe of the Month: Sweet and Sticky

This winey take on the caramel apple is scrumptious, jewel-like and still kid-friendly because all the alcohol burns off. If you can’t find unwaxed apples (organic apples are also usually wax-coated), Google ways to remove the wax, as it tends to make the caramel slide off. The quantity of apples will vary due to size, but this recipe should cover 8 large apples or 12 small apples. RED WINE CARAMEL APPLES 1 bottle (750 ml) dry red wine2 ½ cups sugar½ cup corn syrup2 cups heavy cream¼ teaspoon salt8 to 12 unwaxed applesHeavy wooden skewers (aka candy apple skewers) Add wine and ½ cup sugar to a medium (2 to 3 quart) saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced to ½ cup, about 30 minutes. Remove…

Recipe of the Month: Sweet and Sticky

County Music and Sonoma Wine

When the 13-time Grammy-Award winning country music band The Chicks sat down for this interview, they were in Toronto on tour—their first since 2017. Asked how the tour was going, Emily Strayer and Martie Maguire both paused, laughed and said in unison, “Well…” Despite having to cancel a few dates due to lead singer Natalie Maines coming down with laryngitis, they were in good spirits. “We kept thinking Covid was going to interrupt the tour somehow,” Maguire said. “We already rebooked the shows we had to miss,” Strayer added. “The fans were so sweet. We were really blown away.” Besides their harmonious voices, relatable lyrics and activism, their resilience is arguably a big part of their fan-appeal. From speaking out against the war in Iraq to gracing the cover of Entertainment Weekly with…

County Music and Sonoma Wine

IN PERFECT HARMONY What’s playing and what do the bars recommend drinking while listening to it? EAVESDROP “Knuddelmaus” by Ulrich Schnauss Moonstruck (Rye, fernet, pineapple, lemon and mint) LE FANTASTIQUE “Every Little Thing She Does Is Magic” by The Police PYCM (Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru) IN BETWEEN DAYS “Les Bateaux” by Pépite Dewazakura Dewasansan Namagenshu Saké MILKCRATE CAFE “Give Me the Sunshine” by Leo’s Sunshipp City Pop (Bubbles, fresh-squeezed OJ, Galliano, miso, vodka) SIP AND SPIN The rise and fall and rise again of the vinyl bar. “After all these years of MP3s and streaming, we’re many generations removed from touching things.” Prior to the pandemic, Japanese-style “listening bars” had a moment. Modeled after a bar style popularized in Japan following the Second World War, these establishments prioritized listening to vinyl records, often via stellar sound systems. They weren’t all hushed experiences—as anyone who ever visited NYC’s lively Tokyo Record Bar…

For an easygoing, floral-scented red wine, Gamay has never had it easy. Seen by winegrowers of Burgundy throughout history as a competitor to Pinot Noir, the aromatic grape was banned by the local ruling bodies in 1395, 1455, 1567 and several times during the 18th century. Gamay’s advantages are that it is easier to cultivate, produces higher yields and ripens two weeks earlier than its regional rival. It produces wines with red berry and floral aromas and flavors of bright red fruits with high acidity and a sense of earthiness. France is home to 84,000 acres of this native grape, with over two-thirds of that grown in Beaujolais. Besides the famed Beaujolais nouveau (a fresh, just-fermented wine released each November), Beaujolais is home to 10 communes that produce high-quality Cru Beaujolais…

Viewpoint: From Wine Tasting to Weed Tasting

I’ve written for and about wine and the industry for nearly 10 years, so I’m no stranger to the wine-weed “conundrum.” With the widespread state-legalization of recreational marijuana and the sheer creative plethora of cannabis-related products available to us, does being canna-curious mean we still can’t be wine enthusiasts? On the business side, do these products divert consumers away from wine? Specific to my experimentation with just a short list of THC-infused beverages (page 17), I can say from my experience the joy is in the alternative. An alternative taste. An alternative occasion. An alternative high. In my eyes, there’s a myriad of positives to drinking these products. I’m not going to lie, the first for me is calories. These are low- (and in some cases no-) calorie beverages that don’t break…

Viewpoint: From Wine Tasting to Weed Tasting

Wine Enthusiast's Future 40 List

Beny Ashburn and Teo Hunter Cofounders, Crowns & Hops Brewing • Inglewood, CA A Deeper Purpose via Beer Beer needs to be more than just a liquid in a glass, and at Crowns & Hops, Beny Ashburn and Teo Hunter have been working to create community and awareness through content, events and products that bring together the culture of craft beer and communities of color. With a taproom soon to open in Inglewood, the cofounders of the brand will have a permanent home for their nonprofit, The 8 Trill Pils Initiative, that has already directed more than $100,000 to Black entrepreneurs in and around the craft beer industry. “I don’t see Crowns & Hops as a job, it’s a calling,” says Hunter. “I now have the opportunity to work in my core strength, which…

Wine Enthusiast's Future 40 List

Seaworthy Spirits

By definition, all rum must be distilled from sugar cane—but not all sugar cane spirits are rum. And that’s just fine. The five sugar cane spirits covered here, spanning the globe from Mexico to Japan, were selected for their remarkable ability to express how and where they are made. Cane is a particularly malleable medium, explains Ben Jones, North American director of Spiribam. “The flavor comes from the hand of the maker,” he says, meaning the effect of how the stalks are processed, fermented and distilled. The best cane spirits “form their own complexity and character.” Nuances start with the cane itself, whether that means fresh-pressed juice, dehydrated piloncillo or umami-rich, caramelized “black” sugar. For others, it’s about how that cane reflects mineral-rich soil or flourishes in the presence of wild yeast as it…

Seaworthy Spirits

The West Sonoma Coast is a wonderland of cool-climate Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and small pockets of Syrah—wines of great intensity and concentration yet fresh and balanced in alcohol; difficult to grow but exquisite to drink. And in May of this year, it became recognized as its own American Viticultural Area (AVA). Why it took so long to define a region so distinct that no one who drinks wine could deny its uniqueness is anybody’s guess: Politics? Effort? Lack of vision? Maybe bureaucracy, because every other piece—people, sense of place and persistence—has long been present. Never in question was the push and pull of the Pacific Ocean on these coastal vineyards. Every aspect of the West Sonoma Coast’s character and quality can be traced back to the 76 miles of steep, jagged coastline…

There are two schools of rib thought in the United States. One, they’re something you slather in store-bought BBQ sauce and devour with minimal thought and maximum beer. The other is that barbecuing ribs requires an intimidating amount of time and commitment and is best experienced in rural temples run by wood-fire cooks. Both are true, and yet rib rapture can also be had in your own kitchen on a weeknight. Americans hardly have a culinary claim on ribs: They’re equally popular in most of Asia, Mexico and even Norway, for starters. Yet no one would deny they’re part of the American comfort-food canon. Pork ribs were long enjoyed as part of whole-hog cooking, but didn’t emerge as their own cut until the advent of refrigerated meat processing at the end…

Is There Such a Thing as Saké Terroir?

For over 2,500 years, the story of saké has evolved, percolating through the bedrock of the 47 prefectures contained in the archipelago of Japan. From snowy Hokkaido in the north to subtropical Okinawa in the south, saké and its culture evolved uniquely, molded by aspects of people and place. In wine, terms like regionality and terroir are overarching and ubiquitous. There’s little debate whether the taste or style of well-made wines can reflect peculiarities of origin—variables like soil, climate, topography and otherwise. Yet when asked whether there’s a clear expression of regionality and terroir in the taste or style of saké, most saké producers will respond hesitantly. Often, the response is that it’s complicated. Saké is brewed from just four basic ingredients: Rice and water aided by microorganisms that trigger fermentation—koji, a…

Is There Such a Thing as Saké Terroir?

The 2019 vintage in Bordeaux was in the middle of what we now know was a trio of great vintages. They were all different: 2018 was big and tannic, 2020 was full of fruit. But 2019 was a combination of the two: bold ripe fruits, almost opulent in character, reminiscent, say those with a memory of these things, of 2009, which was a big hit in the American market. I wrote in 2020, as I tasted the wines taken from barrel (en primeur in French), that these are wines for enjoyment. And so it has proved. They are accessible while also having the structure necessary for aging. As so often in recent vintages, the wines with a good proportion of either Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc in the blend are the…

The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Anna-Christina Cabrales (Burgundy, Rhone), Senior Editor, Tasting Jim Gordon (California), Senior Tasting Coordinator Craig Chamberlain (Virginia), Senior Editor, Print Stacy Briscoe (Languedoc-Roussillon), Assistant Editor Jacy Topps (Vin de France) and Writers at Large Michael Alberty (Oregon, Washington, Canada), Virginie Boone (Napa, Sonoma), Mike DeSimone (Spain, Israel, Turkey, Georgia, Lebanon, Armenia, Hungary), John Holl (Beer), Matt Kettmann (Central and South Coast California), Kara Newman (Spirits), Christina Pickard (Australia, New Zealand, England, New York), Emily Saladino (Greece), Layla Shlack (Alsace), Jesica Vargas (South America and South Africa), Roger Voss (Portugal, France: Bordeaux, Beaujolais, Champagne, Loire, Provence, Southwest France)…

CHARDONNAY 96 Vasse Felix 2020 Heytesbury Chardonnay (Margaret River). For full review see page 123. Winebow Imports. abv: 13.5% Price: $90 95 Tolpuddle 2020 Chardonnay (Tasmania). From Tasmania’s southeastern Coal River Valley, Tolpuddle has cemented its reputation as one of Australia’s most revered single vineyards. The winery’s Chardonnay style is a rich, Burgundian expression, leaning fairly heavily into reductive, struck match, flint and roasted nut territory. But it never goes too far. The delicate white peach and preserved lemon notes are what tip it back into balance. The palate is mouthfilling but lifted by pristine acidity. A lick of hazelnut oak supports without dominating, and a toasty, saline finish lingers long in the mouth. A classy and distinctive Chard with a long life ahead. Drink now–2037. Winebow Imports. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $76 94 Vasse…

SMARAGD RIESLING 96 Weingut Knoll 2019 Reid Loibenberg Loibner Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). This is gloriously expressive and perfectly balanced, with a powerful white fruit and spice accents that are supported by precise, crunchy acidity. It is sophisticated with an impressive intensity to the flavors and mineral details. The finish lingers and promises more in years to come. Best from 2025–2040. Circo Vino. —A.Z. abv: 13.5% Price: $81 95 Rudi Pichler 2020 Ried Kirchweg Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). This is a seductive beauty, with a refined profile, featuring a plush and viscous texture. Intense tropical spice and ripe orchard fruit notes emerge with baked pear and quince leading the way. All elements carry through the long, lush finish, which keeps inviting you for another sip. This is gorgeous now, but it will only get better…

TROCKEN RIESLING 90 Schäfer 2020 Made with Organic Grapes Dry-Style Riesling (Rheinhessen). Lavender florals and tea-leaf notes perfume this salt-edged, lip smacking Riesling sourced from organically grown fruit. Medium bodied and juicy on the palate, it highlights sunny yellow-apple and pear flavors with a smoky, spicy kick on the finish. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 90 Seebrich 2020 Roter Schiefer Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen). This is a slim dry Riesling marked by flavors of freshly pressed red apples and pears accented by hints of dusty, stony earth. Juicy in fruit profile yet bracing with acidity, it’s a vital, thirst quenching white best enjoyed now–2027. Artisans & Vines. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $28 90 Weinbiet 2020 Philipp Bassler Grosses Gewächs Riesling Trocken (Pfalz). Broad apple, pear and lemon notes introduce this full-bodied, salt-laced white. While…

BAROLO 99 Cavallotto 2016 Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe Riserva (Barolo). A combination of an extraordinary vintage and a fantastic producer are behind this stunning wine. It opens with aromas recalling woodland berry, pipe tobacco, forest floor, balsamic notes of camphor and new leather. Still youthfully austere, the firmly structured palate delivers ripe Morello cherry, licorice, ground clove and iron notes set against tightly knit, fine-grained tannins. Bright acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2028–2046. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $280 98 Brovia 2018 Rocche di Castiglione (Barolo). Drop-dead gorgeous and utterly delicious, this dazzling, fragrant red opens with heady aromas of iris, forest berry, new leather and culinary spice. The elegantly structured, focused palate features juicy red cherry, spiced cranberry, cinnamon and star anise before a savory, almost…

RED WINES DUORO 95 Burmester 2017 Quinta da Boavista Vinha do Ujo (Douro). The wine is impressive, superbly structured and packed with now mature black fruits. It comes from a parcel of vines on the Boavista estate that have produced a wine that is seriously dense and concentrated. It is ready to drink. Wine In-Motion. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $235 94 Duorum 2018 Reserva (Douro). This rich, field blend wine, with its mint and spice aromas, is impressive and certainly worth aging further. A strongly mineral texture with dark black fruits, and layers of richness and acidity, this fine wine should be ready from 2025. Winebow Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $53 94 Quinta de São Luiz 2017 Grande Reserva Vin has Velhas (Douro). The quinta, on the south bank of the Douro, has…

CHENIN BLANC 93 Van Loggernberg 2019 Trust Your Gut Chenin Blanc (Western Cape). A medium-light gold color, this wine opens with scents of caramelized leek, dried apple skin, lemon custard and a touch of melon rind. The palate is direct and focused, with a direct seam of acidity to cut through the rich fruit and spice tones and lend verve and vibrancy to the close. A lovely textural grip unfolds on the midpalate and lingers with interest through the long finish. Drink now–2025. Vine Street Imports. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $35 91 Safriel House 2018 Barrel Fermented Reserve Chenin Blanc (Paarl). Rich and oaky tones of buttered popcorn, brioche, baked apple and orange custard form the nose on this golden pour. The palate is similarly concentrated, presenting more waves of wood-grilled stone and…

CHARDONNAY 98 Three Sticks 2020 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 123. abv: 14.2% Price: $70 97 Lynmar Estate 2020 Monastery Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 123. abv: 14.3% Price: $58 96 Three Sticks 2020 One Sky Chardonnay (Sonoma Mountain). For full review see page 123. abv: 14.1% Price: $70 95 Domaine Della 2020 Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). An outstanding white from a warm vintage, this shows rich layers of custard and lemon soufflé. Tangy tangerine and wet stone undertones give it lift and freshness as the richness returns for a full-throttled, creamy and cohesive finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $85 95 Lynmar Estate 2020 Susanna’s Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 125. abv: 14.3% Price: $63 95 Three Sticks 2020 Durell Vineyard Origin Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast).…

SYRAH 93 Amavi 2019 Estate Vineyards Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). For full review see page 129. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $42 91 Laterus 2018 Syrah (Red Mountain). This is all clone 383 from esteemed Ciel du Cheval Vineyard. Aged 20 months in French oak (33% new), the aromas bring notes of ripe blue and red fruit, flower and herb. Ripe but svelte fruit flavors follow. It shows pleasing intensity. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $45 90 Amavi 2019 Estate Vineyards Stone Valley Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This is the first time the winery has designated a wine from this vineyard. The aromas pop, with notes of tangerine peel and potpourri, followed by blue fruit, herb, gravel and olive. Light, somewhat linear flavors follow. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 88 Côte Bonneville 2019 DuBrul Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley).…

In Cognac, the longest-aged (and often fanciest-looking and most expensive) expressions tend to get the most attention. Yet, the youngest versions of France’s signature brandy deserve some love, too. VS Cognac—aka “Very Special” Cognac—must be aged for a minimum of two years, according to the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC), which represents the Cognac appellation. The label may also say “Selection,” “De Luxe,” or may simply have three stars (***) to designate the VS category. Specifically, that means the youngest eau-de-vie (distillate) used to create the blend was aged in oak barrels for at least two years. Older eau-de-vie may be part of the blend too; Cognac producers typically blend together eau-de-vie of various ages. It’s affordable, it’s mixable, and it can be a great starting point if you want to…

While it might be too soon to call it a renaissance, there is definitely renewed interest in dark lagers. Brewers, who have long enjoyed the various styles in the general category—Schwarzbier and bocks—are offering them in taprooms and in package, and consumers are slowly adding them to their drinking repertoire, some even becoming devoted fans. Traditional lagers are often referred to as refreshing. With moderate abv and often bright golden in color their appearance and flavors are like sunshine and quench thirst on the warmest of days and lend to good times at sporting events or the outdoors. When darker malts are added to the recipe, the perception can change, but shouldn’t. Often designed for colder nights, there is a certain pleasure in enjoying them with grilled summer and autumn foods. Darker malts…

Last Drop: Stuck in the Middle

I twice knocked Jimmy Kimmel and ABC off the air. Consecutive nights. With nothing but my finger. True story. I was helping run a small winery called Roshambo in Sonoma County 20 years ago. We made wine (some of it even pretty good), of course, but might have been more well-known for making trouble. We ran anti-war ads, painted guerilla action banners on water towers and sold cans of Schlitz for a buck in a tasting room that was more art gallery. Enfants terrible, some said. Young punks. They might not have been wrong. Maybe you had to be there. Perhaps you were there when we held a high-stakes rock paper scissors tournament. Champion takes all the glory, half the cash. Winner Ana Martinez’s decisive throw was stone cold. Somehow word…

Last Drop: Stuck in the Middle

In This Issue

Description

Details

Reviews

Recent Digital Issues Browse all

Recent Wine Enthusiast Digital Issues Browse all back issues

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription August 1st, 2024 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) August/September 2024: $2.99

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription June 1st, 2024 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) June/July 2024: $2.99

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription May 1st, 2024 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) May 2024: $2.99

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription April 1st, 2024 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) April 2024: $2.99

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription April 1st, 2025 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) April 2025: $2.99

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription January 28th, 2025 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Winter 2025: $2.99

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription December 10th, 2024 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Best of 2024: $2.99

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription December 1st, 2024 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) December 2024: $2.99

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription November 1st, 2024 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) November 2024: $2.99

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription October 1st, 2024 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) October 2024: $2.99

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription August 1st, 2024 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) August/September 2024: $2.99

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription June 1st, 2024 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) June/July 2024: $2.99

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription May 1st, 2024 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) May 2024: $2.99

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription April 1st, 2024 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) April 2024: $2.99

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription April 1st, 2025 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) April 2025: $2.99

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription January 28th, 2025 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Winter 2025: $2.99

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription December 10th, 2024 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Best of 2024: $2.99

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) Subscription December 1st, 2024 Issue

Wine Enthusiast (Digital) December 2024: $2.99

Customers Also Viewed

Wine Enthusiast Magazine (Digital) Subscription April 1st, 2025 Issue

Wine Enthusiast Magazine (Digital)

(109)

9 Issues: $12.99 ~~$26.91~~

Reviews