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51 Articles

Wine Enthusiast Masthead

Jacqueline Strum EDITOR & PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR, PRINT John Capone TASTING DIRECTOR Anna-Christina Cabrales CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli EDITORIAL MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL Rachel Paley SENIOR EDITOR, PRINT Stacy Briscoe DIGITAL EDITOR Kristen Richard ASSISTANT EDITOR, DIGITAL J’nai Gaither ASSISTANT EDITOR, PRINT Jacy Topps EDITORIAL ASSISTANT, DIGITAL Jaime Brown CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, FOOD Nils Bernstein WEB PRODUCER Samantha Sette DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon DIGITAL VISUALS EDITOR Evan de Normandie DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena TASTING SENIOR EDITOR, TASTING Jim Gordon SENIOR TASTING COORDINATOR Craig Chamberlain ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR Cody Wexler ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR Russell Peborde SOCIAL DIRECTOR OF SOCIAL MEDIA Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Marco Bruno COMMUNITY COORDINATOR Ruya Kirac VIDEO SUPERVISING VIDEO PRODUCER Braxton Parr VIDEO PRODUCER Rob Martin WRITERS AT LARGE WINE Michael Alberty, Virginie Boone, Danielle Callegari, Mike DeSimone, Matt Kettmann, Christina Pickard, Jeff Porter, Emily Saladino, Layla Shlack, Jesica Vargas, Roger Voss, Aleks Zecevic SPIRITS Kara Newman BEER John Holl EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF…

Letter From the Publisher: The Only Constant

“A crisis is a terrible thing to waste.” It is difficult to see 2022 in a vacuum when looking back at the past year. It feels like it has been a three-year rollercoaster of transformation. Changes in the economy, changes in agriculture, politics, technology, the list feels endless. All of that culminates in my understanding that change is not only constant, it’s a constant opportunity. Much of the news this year was challenging, however in the challenges we see glimmers of inspiration. As someone once told me, “A crisis is a terrible thing to waste.” Difficult times push us to be brave. At Wine Enthusiast, we’re no strangers to change, and there have been many these past few years, however it was felt most acutely in 2022. We have new staff members, new…

Letter From the Publisher: The Only Constant

Sips and Snaps Around the Globe

Sips and Snaps Around the Globe

Soundbites: From the Wine Enthusiast Podcast

Let’s get the conversation started. The Wine Enthusiast Podcast, hosted by Jacy Topps, is your twice-monthly serving of drinks culture and the people who drive it. Lately we’ve talked with our Future 40 industry taste-makers about the diversity in craft beer, the missed opportunities in spirits marketing, breaking barriers in Champagne and the challenges of being your authentic self in the wine business. Listen in everywhere you get your podcasts or at winemag.com/podcast. EPISODE: Future 40 Beer Tastemakers 2022 “I’ve had the opportunity to interact specifically with other trans folks who are trying to make their way in wine, and it gives me an infinite amount of energy to continue to know that all of the things that I’ve had to fight through just to be here have in some way positively impacted…

Soundbites: From the Wine Enthusiast Podcast

By bringing his winemaking equipment right into a vineyard block, as close to the source and as far from the commercial strains flying around the winery as possible, a winemaker is attempting to isolate the effects of native yeasts. Why is this man fermenting wine in the vineyard? Afew years ago, after decades of growing thousands of acres of grapes for dozens of brands across the Salinas Valley, the folks at Scheid Family Wines (who produce upwards of 700,000 cases a year) realized there might be something special about one of their smaller vineyards. Perched on a bluff that inspired a passage from John Steinbeck’s Of Mice & Men, the 360-acre Riverview Vineyard reliably produced Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays that stood above the rest of the Scheid pack. They wanted to amplify the…

What's in a Fiasco?

In Chianti Classico, perched above Conca d’Oro, a small jewel box of vineyards bathed in Tuscan sunshine and home to Fontodi and a handful of other prized winemakers, you’ll find the tiny town of Panzano. You’ll also find Dario Cecchini, the larger than life, Dante-reciting, lauded butcher and restaurateur. You may have read about him in Bill Buford’s book Heat or seen him on Chef’s Table and Top Chef. A steady stream of culinary pilgrims and tourists from all over the world make their way to see Dario in this speck of a village, and to dine on his famous bistecca alla Fiorentina. Every one of them is greeted with a glass of his local Chianti Classico poured from a fiasco, the infamously bulbous Chianti bottles dressed in straw, which…

What's in a Fiasco?

I magine a wine so rare, precious and concentrated that many wineries and restaurants in its home country serve it not in a glass—but in a crystal spoon. A libation that once upon a time was dispensed at pharmacies for its healing qualities. A nectar that wise women advised parents of teething infants to spread lightly on their babies’ aching gums. A beverage produced in such small quantities that it ferments and ages, not in stainless steel tanks or wooden barrels, but in 14-gallon glass demijohns in ancient cellars deep underground. The most sumptuous and luxurious wine known to humans, Tokaji Eszencia is the fermented free-run juice of Aszú berries—botrytized and raisined Furmint, Hárslevelü and other grape varieties. As Zoltan Kovacs, winery director of Royal Tokaji, which recently released its 2009…

Pairology: What's Good for the Goose

It’s no secret that foie gras—fattened duck or goose liver—is controversial. Animal welfare concerns have led to a ban on its production and, in some cases, importation. Its defenders point to misinformation campaigns and the fact that factory farming is far more cruel and detrimental to both animals and humans. What is inarguable, though, is that it is still widely enjoyed as a coveted luxury item for which there is no clear substitute. While raw foie gras can be bought from some specialty butchers, most of what foie fans buy are packaged products that have usually been gently precooked and are ready to serve. By French law, these can be cut from whole liver lobes (foie gras entier), pieces of several livers pressed together (foie gras) or a smooth molded block…

Pairology: What's Good for the Goose

SIPPING ON THE SLOPES The view from Chez Vrony is jaw dropping—unique even for the Swiss Alps, where majestic mountain vistas are everywhere. Perched high above Zermatt’s bustling ski resorts and mountaineering-themed restaurants, this family farmhouse-turned-destination-restaurant offers breezy-elegant versions of alpine cuisine, an impressive cellar full of wine bottles that need to be loaded in before the snow makes it impossible—and a stunning panorama of the Matterhorn. Located in the quiet hamlet of Findeln, a collection of small barn-like structures with heavy slate roofs dotting the mountainside at 7,000 feet, Chez Vrony is accessible by ski lift or an hour’s hike from Zermatt center. Veronika Julen, who goes by the nickname “Vrony,” is the proprietor and the restaurant’s namesake. She is graceful and soft-spoken, with a genuinely hospitable demeanor. Her menu has…

Recipe of the Month: Winter Whites

Think of this snow-white salad as a tastier and more elegant slaw, suitable as a side dish or light lunch. Its versatility is a bonus to its simplicity: Make an even more robust meal by adding any combination of white beans, hard-boiled eggs, bacon and goat or feta cheese. RAW CAULIFLOWER SALAD WITH DILL RANCH DRESSING 1 head cauliflower1 large (or 2 small) apples2 large (or 3 small) heads Belgian endive, thinly sliced crosswise6 scallions, white parts only, thinly sliced⅓ cup toasted pine nutsDill Ranch Dressing* Cut core from cauliflower and break into large florets. Slice florets as thinly as possible; you want large thin shavings of cauliflower rather than stubby small florets (you can also use a mandolin). Add to a bowl. Peel, core and dice the apple, toss with a little lemon…

Recipe of the Month: Winter Whites

Cocktail of the Month: Beet It

“This is our take on a spicy caipirinha,” explains William “Wildcat” Greenwell, beverage director for Mister Mao, a self-described “tropical roadhouse” in New Orleans. This quirky, colorful take on Brazil’s national drink, which features rum-like cachaça, gets its bright-pink hue from beet purée. The inspiration: Chef Sophina Uong (who co-owns the restaurant with husband Greenwell) had been making beet chips for the dinner menu, Greenwell recalls, and the extra beet purée added “earthy nuance,” a touch of sweetness and, of course, vibrant color. It also gave the drink its name: betabel is “beet” in Spanish. BETABEL BETTY Courtesy William “Wildcat” Greenwell, Beverage Director, Mister Mao, New Orleans, LA 2 ounces cachaça¼ ounce lime juice¼ ounce simple syrup (1:1 sugar: hot water)1 bar spoon red beet purée2 slices serrano pepperSerrano pepper slices, for garnish Combine all…

Cocktail of the Month: Beet It

Beer Meets Breakfast

While some might only see maple syrup as suitable for waffles, pancakes and French toast, brewers see potential for beer. The sticky sap-derived product long reserved for breakfast is increasingly finding its way into ales and lagers, offering depth that delights drinkers. “There is a misconception that maple syrup will make a beer sweet, but most of the sugars ferment out so you’re left with more flavor than sugar,” says Sean Lawson, founder of Lawson’s Finest Liquids in Vermont. While maple syrup is used to give these brews more nuanced flavors, it is a sugar agent, so beers that incorporate tree sap can often be higher in alcohol. Lawson has been brewing with maple syrup since his homebrewing days, and the brewery now offers several maple beers during the year, including the…

Beer Meets Breakfast

Clean Wine Conundrum

“It’s become such an issue that the federal agency that regulates wine had to remind these producers that it’s illegal to make health claims.” Whenever Tyler Eck’s friends see the ads on their Instagram feed, their next message is immediately to him. “Is this for real?” they ask Eck, a California winemaker who works for Fess Parker and has his own label, Dunitas, with wife Rachel. “Or is it a scam?” The ads tout “clean wine”—fewer calories, less additives and all the rest. Eck’s friends can’t believe that something that contains alcohol can be, for lack of a better term, beneficial. And, he tells them, they’re mostly right. “This is healthwashing, just like greenwashing,” says Eck. “They make a lot of claims, like lower sugar and less calories, that really don’t make any sense.”…

Clean Wine Conundrum

Viewpoint: By Another Name

“A beverage without alcohol should not be considered lesser.” Nonalcoholic bottle shops, shelves of spiritless spirits and complex menu offerings that integrate vinegary shrubs with extracted produce essence are becoming commonplace. But even as we move toward this evolved world of nonalcoholic beverages, many still refer to them with the infantile word—mocktail. With my own adaptation to life post-breast cancer, I view thoughtful zero-proof menus as necessary evolutions. And as we reexamine the language used to describe wine and spirits to be more inclusive, menu language needs to be overhauled as well. A beverage without alcohol should not be considered lesser. “While the word mocktail is nearly universally recognized, and a clever portmanteau, it has been categorically the bearer of some of the most sugary, pandering beverages of all time. Mock means to…

Viewpoint: By Another Name

The Enthusiast 100 of 2022

Our reviewers went on a hunt for discoveries this year and were not disappointed. Out of 21,000 blind-tasted wines reviewed and scored, thousands of bottles were outside the mainstream of wine retail offerings—and a good portion of those received high scores. The Enthusiast 100 puts the best of those discoveries front and center, calling out a savory, brambly Australian Pinot Noir from Giant Steps as the No. 1 wine of the year and a Barolo with scents of pressed roses and pine forest from G. B. Burlotto as No. 2. Wines with high scores and lower prices got special attention, because affordability is an exciting proposition for everyone and can mean wider access. Look for 22 wines at $25 and under, including a racy Spanish Albariño from Rias Baixas and a bone-dry,…

The Enthusiast 100 of 2022

Best Bubbles Only, Please

Of all the wine classes I teach, Champagne remains my favorite subject. Students engage, eager to learn; the class feels like a casual conversation about artisans who inspire me. My presentation always includes a wine flight showcasing the differences between the two main types of Champagne producers one would likely find at their local wine shop: The large well-known maisons, or Grandes Marques, and grower producers. The Grandes Marques serve as the calling card of this illustrious place—carrying on a 350-year-old tradition that makes this region unparalleled. Stroll down the Avenue de Champagne in Epernay, once called Fabour de la Folie (“crazy suburb”), and you will find the famous names of Moët & Chandon, Pol Roger, Boizel and Vranken, just to name a few. These and the likes of Charles Heidsieck, Bollinger and…

Best Bubbles Only, Please

Top 100 Spirits of 2022

This past year has brought much to celebrate, including the continued (if cautious) return to gatherings with family and friends, and openings (and re-openings) of bars and restaurants across the country. It’s also brought a line-up of memorable spirits—and a number of surprises. This list was compiled from the hundreds of bottles we’ve had the opportunity to review over the past 12 months. It includes a top-scoring new bourbon that hailed from Colorado—not Kentucky—and an attention-getting Italian vermouth infused with Japanese cherry blossom that filled our glasses with pink-tinged Martinis. A toasty rye whiskey from Denmark shared space with top-tier American-made ryes, and a debut gin from Kenya charmed with brisk citrus and spice. Of note: This year’s Top 100 doesn’t include Scotch whisky—the first time since 2013 that has happened. To be…

Top 100 Spirits of 2022

The Weird, Wild and Wonderful World of American Brandy

Once a year, Baltimore Spirits takes an attention-grabbing approach to dispatching an abundance of Maryland apples into apple brandy. Inspired by the harvest celebration of Mexico’s pechuga mezcal, raw apples are swept with smoke, then distilled with foraged pawpaw, persimmon and black walnut. For the final distillation, a 30-pound Maryland country ham is suspended in the still above the pot, for a distinct “prosciutto-y” salinity, explains cofounder Max Lents. “It’s a completely insane thing to do—hanging hams in your still,” Lents acknowledges, “but the spirit wouldn’t be the same without it.” Insane? Maybe. But it’s memorable—and that’s important. Creative distilleries are shaking up the once-sleepy world of American brandy. Many are borrowing inspiration from ingredients and distilling cultures from around the world; others are finding ways to spotlight uber-local ingredients, preserving peak seasonal…

The Weird, Wild and Wonderful World of American Brandy

Top 50 Beers of 2022

What does it take to stand out in the crowded beer industry these days? A commitment to quality, a desire for innovation and an understanding and appreciation for ingredient nuance. There are more than 9,000 breweries in the United States and many thousands more around the world. These breweries are standing on the shoulders of committed professionals, scientists and farmers who have built a base of knowledge that creates a dynamic and engaging drinking experience. This list represents the very best submitted to Wine Enthusiast, tasted throughout 2022. Hazy appearance is in fashion this year. But from the banana- and clove-forward Hefeweizens to the tropical and citrus hazy pale ales and international India pale ales, the selections here go well beyond looks. Smoky rauchbier joins ales and lagers with creative fruit-infused brews…

Top 50 Beers of 2022

So Cool It’s Hot

Just 25 years ago, no one—not even winemakers in Santa Barbara County—promoted the name “Sta. Rita Hills” as a prime place for growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Yet just two decades after the appellation’s creation in 2001, this fog-soaked, wind-whipped western edge of the Santa Ynez Valley is a globally recognized hotspot for cool-climate grapes and a model of how to correctly craft an American Viticultural Area. “It can be hard to wrap your head around Southern California and think of a cool climate,” explains Matt Dees, who makes The Hilt wines from the Bentrock and Radian vineyards on Rancho Salsipuedes. “Until people come here and see it for themselves or taste enough wines, it’s hard to fathom. But once people taste that freshness and electricity in the whites and the…

So Cool It’s Hot

Australia Looks Inland

Riverland—Australia’s largest wine growing region is one of its least known. Located northeast of Adelaide, Riverland covers 1,584 square miles along the South Australian stretch of the Murray River and is home to over 54,000 acres of vines. In 2022, Riverland fruit comprised 32% of Australia’s total crush by volume. Combine this with the fruit of neighboring inland regions and the figure jumps to a staggering 73% of Australian wine’s entire production. Yet, few Aussies can point to Riverland on the map. That’s because the vast majority of this hot, dry region’s grapes, which are irrigated from the mighty Murray River, is sold in bulk to large wine companies for low prices. It’s been that way since the end of World War I, when a soldier resettlement scheme resulted in vine…

Australia Looks Inland

Playing With Fire

It might be summer in Argentina right now, but a hearty beef parrillada (or mixed grill) is the country’s favorite meal year-round. Along with Uruguay, Argentina consumes the most beef per capita of any country in the world, usually around 100 lbs. a year per person, depending on your source. “In Argentina, asado is a tradition whose rituals, mysteries and lore rival any organized religion,” says John Manion, the Brazil-raised chef-owner of Chicago’s El Che Steakhouse & Bar, which interprets asado for U.S. diners. “It harkens back to the gauchos raising cattle on the pampa, and it permeates nearly every facet of society.” Wood fire and smoke are crucial to asado, which the home griller can achieve by letting hardwood burn down to coal, or using lump charcoal to begin with. A…

Playing With Fire

Wine Enthusiast Wine Star Awards

In 2022, we mark the 23rd anniversary of Wine Enthusiast’s Annual Wine Star Awards, honoring the individuals and companies that have significantly contributed to the success of the wine and alcohol beverage world. In a challenging and evolving landscape, we salute the dedicated professionals and progressive thinkers who have shown drive and resilience. From winemakers to wineries, sommeliers to CEOs, innovators and social visionaries, the honorees you’ll learn about on these pages have balanced business acumen with vision and made steps to evolve the future of wine and alcohol beverage. Nominated by members of our global sales, events, marketing and editorial divisions with final selections made by our executive publishing team, winners will be honored at our black-tie gala in January 2023. For details on the event and further insight on…

Wine Enthusiast Wine Star Awards

Jeff O’Neill Person of the Year

After building Golden State Vintners into the country’s fourth largest winery, taking it public and then selling it, Marin County native Jeff O’Neill founded O’Neill Vintners & Distillers in 2004. It’s steadily grown into the 10th largest winery in America, with 13 nationally distributed brands and two dozen private-label wines—all amounting to more than seven million cases produced annually. “We basically brought coastal winemaking techniques to the Central Valley,” says O’Neill of the value-minded wines he makes primarily in Parlier, California. “We’re trying to please many consumers rather than a few upper luxury consumers.” Pledging a philosophy of “no drama,” he’s proud of treating people right. In an industry still dominated by white males, almost half of O’Neill’s 350 employees are female, 40 of them in executive-level roles. Alongside former NFL…

Jeff O’Neill Person of the Year

William Foley: Lifetime Achievement Wine Star Award

Through steady, strategic investments in vineyards, wineries and brands over 26 years, and a parallel progression in winemaking quality, William Foley has become one of the most influential vintners in California. The company he founded in 1996, Foley Family Wines, now includes in its portfolio such iconic wineries as Chalk Hill, Sebastiani, Firestone, Ferrari-Carano, Chateau St. Jean, Silverado Vineyards and many others in California and the Pacific Northwest, as well as investments in New Zealand, France and Argentina. Foley Family Wines was ranked No. 20 this year in sales volume among U.S. wineries by Wine Business Monthly, before the recent addition of Silverado, and will soon reach two million cases. Numbers like those might tie some owners into knots as they try to keep all the moving parts moving. Not Foley. The 77-year-old…

William Foley: Lifetime Achievement Wine Star Award

Randy Ullom: American Wine Legend Wine Star Award

Randy Ullom, the man directly in charge of America’s No. 1 selling Chardonnay, is widely admired for his diligence, patience and pure winemaking talent. No less important: his knack for mentoring younger winemakers during an exceptional 47-year career. As the senior vice president and winemaster for all Kendall-Jackson wines (the biggest division of Jackson Family Wines), he oversees a massive program of vineyards, winery facilities and employees from his base in Santa Rosa, California, while still handling some of the detailed quality control chores of a winemaker. The steady quality and value of Vintner’s Reserve wines under Ullom’s direction have grown the brand to 3 million cases, about two-thirds of which is Chardonnay. It’s a testament to the talent of this mustachioed, soft-spoken but determined winemaker and the team he assembled that…

Randy Ullom: American Wine Legend Wine Star Award

Nicole Hitchcock: Winemaker of the Year

With relentless dedication, passion for problem solving and love of teamwork and collaboration, Nicole Hitchcock is the fourth winemaker in J Vineyards and Winery’s 36-year history. “It’s the creative pursuit of constantly refining my winemaking approach to make better wines every year that truly excites me,” she says. Born and raised on the central coast of California, her passion for wine was ignited while working in restaurants with dynamic culinary and wine programs throughout the state. Hitchcock took the next step in her wine education and embarked on a winemaking career after earning her Bachelor of Science in Viticulture & Enology in 2001 at the University of California, Davis. After working harvests in Napa, Australia and Argentina, she landed at E. & J. Gallo in 2010, ultimately taking the reins as…

Nicole Hitchcock: Winemaker of the Year

Nicholas Miller: Wine Executive of the Year

There was nothing textbook about how the Miller family evolved from being primarily an agricultural company family on California’s Central Coast into managing nearly a dozen brands and partnerships, from luxury-level estate bottlings to nationally distributed retail lines and even a stunningly successful no-alcohol wine. “We started backward,” admits Nicholas Miller, who is the chief sales & marketing officer and executive vice president of the Miller Family Wine Company. “We had an upside-down pyramid.” The Millers, who got into the grape business in the early 1970s after a century of growing lemons and avocados in Ventura County, already owned more than 2,000 acres of vineyards and large production facilities by the time they ventured into winemaking about 15 years ago. But their business model was selling grapes—from Bien Nacido and Solomon Hills…

Nicholas Miller: Wine Executive of the Year

Anita Oberholster, Tom Collins and Elizabeth Tomasino Innovator of the Year

Smoke taint is one of the greatest threats to America’s West Coast wine regions, with wines from more than half the vintages of the last decade affected. In the age of climate change, as wildfires become an increasingly regular part of life, the need for more research into the effects of smoke on grape growing and winemaking takes on new urgency. Enter three researchers: Anita Oberholster at the University of California, Davis; Tom Collins at Washington State University and Elizabeth Tomasino at Oregon State University. Individually, Oberholster, Collins and Tomasino had already been working on topics related to smoke and wine, but when the three applied for and received a four-year Specialty Crop Research Initiative (SCRI) grant in 2020, they combined forces, bringing research experience from their respective states to the table…

Anita Oberholster, Tom Collins and Elizabeth Tomasino Innovator of the Year

The Hue Society: Social Visionary of the Year

Using the skills she learned working in leadership positions in restaurants, coupled with her desire to see people of color represented in the wine industry, Tahiirah Habibi founded The Hue Society in 2017. The organization is dedicated to increasing Black, Brown and Indigenous representation in and access to the wine industry. “We amplify, educate and increase economic impact across the board.” A skilled entrepreneur, Habibi wanted to focus her efforts on giving back to the Black community, which has been historically underrepresented in wine: “The standards of this industry are polarizing for many of us; oftentimes we are not allowed to be ourselves. I created The Hue Society because of and despite those experiences—because I know that connections are healing.” While working as a sommelier at renowned restaurants, Habibi found she was constantly…

The Hue Society: Social Visionary of the Year

Abruzzo, Italy: Wine Region of the Year

Wine lovers have always celebrated legendary winemaking regions of the world, but discriminating oenophiles know that hidden gems are discovered off the beaten tasting path. The mountainous coastal region of Abruzzo in central Italy, located along the Adriatic Sea, is one such wine destination. It is Wine Enthusiast’s Region of the Year for reasons that outnumber the surprises it offers—from its unspoiled villages to its stunning natural landscapes, filled with waterfalls, rivers and historic castles. The celebrated wine region is also fast becoming a heralded destination for slow travel with an ambitious emphasis on a sustainable connection to local culture, people, gastronomy and music. The celebrated wine region is also fast becoming a heralded destination for slow travel. One of the oldest wine-growing regions, Abruzzo is located a scenic two-hour drive east…

Abruzzo, Italy: Wine Region of the Year

Hope Family Wines: American Winery of the Year

Though today it’s a globally recognized wine country full of stylish tasting rooms and lined with vines as far as the eye can see, Paso Robles, California, was little more than a dusty cowboy town when Chuck and Marilyn Hope bought land to plant vineyards here in 1978. Four decades later, Hope Family Wines produces a wide range of internationally distributed brands that are respected for both quality and affordability as well as market-leading creativity. “We became one of the larger farmers in the area,” explains their son, Austin Hope, who went from a kid playing in vineyards to a visionary for the family’s wine portfolio almost 30 years ago. “There wasn’t anyone here at the time. We went through the whole cycle of the wine industry.” They grew Zinfandel during…

Hope Family Wines: American Winery of the Year

Domaines Ott: Winery of the Year

For many wine lovers in the United States and beyond, Domaines Ott rosé—in its iconic amphora-shaped bottle—influenced their impression of one of the essential products of Provence. The plurality of Domaines Ott is derived from three properties: historic Château Romassan in Bandol; Clos Mireille, a former monastery at La Londe Les Maures; and the windswept flagship Château de Selle in Taradeau. Whether someone tries Domaines Ott at a beach club in The Hamptons or at one of the three hospitable estates while traveling through Provence, fans appreciate that there’s substance built into these wines. “Domaines Ott has been producing rosé for more than 100 years,” says Cyprien Roy, communications manager at Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, Inc. representing Louis Roederer, owner of Domaines Ott. Though often credited for elevating the popularity of…

Domaines Ott: Winery of the Year

Zuccardi Valle De Uco: New World Winery of the Year

“Zuccardi Valle de Uco is Uco Valley,” says Sebastian Zuccardi, director of winemaking and third generation of the Zuccardi family. The winery has focused on elevating the Uco Valley region while positioning itself as one of its most iconic wine producers. The Zuccardis’ innovative spirit guided them to the Uco Valley in the early 2000s. Since then, they have explored it thoroughly, from a macro to a micro perspective. As a result, their winery is currently praised for its wines made with grapes from acclaimed appellations such as Altamira, Gualtallary and San Pablo. “As a family,” says Zuccardi, “what we did well was create something with deep roots by first understanding the region, then purchasing land, learning more about the region and finally building a winery.” In 2009, Zuccardi and his…

Zuccardi Valle De Uco: New World Winery of the Year

Pacific Highway: Importer of the Year

Wine doesn’t sell itself. While most importers find success by working with as many big wineries as they can cram into their portfolio, or rigorously curating a small group of philosophically homogeneous winemakers they personally know, Pacific Highway Wines’ president Mark Giordano has helped spur the steady growth of his company’s business—and that of the wineries it represents—with a refreshingly novel tack. “We create partnerships with wineries in different regions,” Giordano says. “We want to grow their businesses through our partnerships at national retail, hotel and restaurant chains. We do that by working with one winery per region. “We want to be able to tick every box for our partners and offer representation from major wine-growing regions across the world, but we don’t want to ever have to choose our favorite child…

Pacific Highway: Importer of the Year

ReserveBar: Marketplace of the Year

Imagine being the guy who saw the whole sliced bread thing coming. That’s exactly where ReserveBar was in 2013, when founders Lindsay Held and Jeff Carton wanted to send some primo vodka to a college friend across the country, only to find, well, nothing after a thorough Google search. “It was a typical case of us just heading over to Google and searching for options to send vodka to our friend,” cofounder Held recalls of his and fellow founder Carton’s fruitless quest. “We kept finding random liquor stores across the country, but there was no centralized 1-800-Flowers delivery system for alcohol. We kept calling the stores, and there was no gift box option, no hand delivery. Quite frankly, it felt like we’d be lucky to even get it delivered.” Serendipitously, the pair,…

ReserveBar: Marketplace of the Year

Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish Gin: Spirits Brand of the Year

When Pat (P.J.) Rigney first created the prototype for Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish Gin in 2014, he had visions of a gin flavored with botanicals from around the world, reflecting his own lifetime of travel, but distilled in Ireland, where his own heritage lay. “This is my life’s work,” says Rigney, now managing director and founder of The Shed Distillery, located in Ireland’s western province, Connacht. After more than three decades working in the spirits industry, including representing legacy Irish brands such as Bailey’s Irish Cream and Irish Mist, Rigney set out to create his own brand, specifically a gin that would be “delicious, exotic, but with lots of layers to it.” He collected a recipe of 12 botanicals, including Ireland’s meadowsweet and Chinese “gunpowder” green tea, and distilled the gin in Ireland…

Tonya Pitts: Sommelier of the Year

With her enthusiastic, individualized approach and a magnanimous charitable streak, Tonya Pitts is a prime example of how sommeliers can impact the wine world far beyond the confines of the restaurants whose lists they shepherd. Pitts currently is wine director of One Market in San Francisco, where she manages a list of around 500 labels. She has over 30 years of experience in the restaurant industry, starting out at the iconic restaurants Stars, from chef Jeremiah Tower, and chef Judy Rodgers’ Zuni Café. For more than two decades she’s been a sommelier and wine director, telling the stories of both benchmark and under-sung regions and producers, while championing diversity and inclusion. That’s true both on and off her wine lists. She has long supported female, Black and Latino winemakers, but Pitts is…

Tonya Pitts: Sommelier of the Year

California's Best

U.S. consumers drink far more California wine than wine from any other place. This preference for drinking domestic is not unusual for a major wine-producing region; just ask the French, Italians or Spanish. For U.S. wine drinkers, California wine is often more accessible than imported wine and it is, of course, American-made, something we take pride in supporting. California winemakers have been working their way to the top tier of the international quality pyramid for 40 years, and now have clearly arrived alongside historically renowned regions such as Burgundy, Bordeaux and Barolo. This Buying Guide is packed full of proof of that progress, featuring hundreds of highly rated wines blind-tasted by our three dedicated California reviewers: Matt Kettman, Stacy Briscoe and myself. In particular, you’ll find dozens of excellent Chardonnays and Cabernet…

The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Anna-Christina Cabrales (Burgundy, Rhone), Senior Editor, Tasting Jim Gordon (Napa, Sonoma), Senior Tasting Coordinator Craig Chamberlain (Virginia), Senior Editor, Print Stacy Briscoe (California), Assistant Editor Jacy Topps (Languedoc-Roussillon, Vin de France) and Writers at Large Michael Alberty (Oregon, Washington, Canada), Mike DeSimone (Spain, Croatia, Israel, Turkey, Georgia, Lebanon, Armenia, Hungary), John Holl (Beer), Matt Kettmann (Central and South Coast California), Kara Newman (Spirits), Christina Pickard (Australia, New Zealand, England, New York), Emily Saladino (Greece), Layla Shlack (Alsace), Jesica Vargas (South America and South Africa), Roger Voss (Portugal, France: Bordeaux, Beaujolais, Champagne, Loire, Provence, Southwest France), Aleks…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 96 Mayacamas 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). This is an earthy, classically structured wine of great pedigree and style. It goes against the grain of bigger and riper wines. Tangy red fruit, sage and pencil shavings make for an expressive, lengthy and complex experience of elegance and grace. This wine will do well in the cellar. Enjoy best from 2028–2038. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $150 96 Taub Family Vineyards 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). For full review see page 167. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.7% Price: $85 96 Taub Family Vineyards 2019 Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Concentrated, contained and very young, this powerful, full-bodied wine tastes jam-packed with dark berries and dark chocolate while firm, fine-grained tannins give it a big mouthfeel. Time will improve the feel of…

SPARKLING WINES 93 Tirriddis NV Barrel Fermented Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Blend (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 179. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12.36% Price: $36 90 Aquilini 2020 Gia Bella Cabernet SauvignonBrut Rosé (Red Mountain). For full review see page 188. abv: 12% Price: $40 90 Tirriddis 2020 Stonemark Vineyard Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Blend (Rattlesnake Hills). This beautifully tart and tangy traditional method sparkling wine spent 20 months on lees, with concrete fermentation and new French oak aging. The aromatic combination of tart lemon and sweet white peach is something to write home about. Additional notes of jasmine and watermelon mint also appear. The wine’s acidity is bursting at the seams, although its flavors of lemon, leather, freshly baked croissants and the cold, clean mineral qualities of well water are equally mouthwatering. Lazy…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 95 Seña 2020 Vinedo Chadwick Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Complex and elegant, this premium wine from Puente Alto in Maipo Valley opens with aromas of blackberry, cherry and thyme. It’s full bodied with a mineral character and energetic acidity. Honest strawberry and red-plum flavors combine on the juicy midpalate and linger throughout the finish with light notes of mint and tobacco. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —J.V. abv: 13% Price: $350 93 San Pedro 2019 Cabo de Hornos Cabernet Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). For full review see page 178. Misa Imports. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 91 Valle Secreto 2017 Private Cabernet Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). This wine is well structured and full bodied. Ripe blackberry, green bell pepper, and licorice shape the nose. The smooth palate delivers ripe black-fruit flavors and bay leaf. It finishes…

VINTAGE 99 Philipponnat 2013 Clos des Goisses Extra Brut (Champagne). The new release of this Champagne is impressively stylish. It comes from a vertiginous vineyard facing north across the Marne river, the soil producing a wine with intense minerality and texture that demands time to soften. So, the blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is set for further aging. Ideally, wait for this magnificent wine until 2025. Banville Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $320 99 Salon 2012 Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). For full review see page 165. Vineyard Brands. abv: 13% Price: $992 98 Pol Roger 2013 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill Brut (Champagne). Although ready to drink, this very fine Champagne has plenty of aging to go. With its rich Pinot Noir and ripe fruits, it is generous while also fully…

PINOT GRIS 93 Mure 2018 Clos Saint Landelin Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace). Petrol and a bit of coriander on the nose hint at something savory and interesting. It’s dense and a little oily in texture, but linear on the palate, pulsating with notes of lemon zest and serious acidity. The finish is long and savory. This is a bold wine that can act as a beautiful counterpoint to fried foods. Gargouille Collection. —L.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 92 Joseph Cattin 2020 Hatschbourg Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace). Saline aromas mingle with creamy notes and, as it opens up, a bit of petrol. This wine has a nice rounded weight to it, led by sugar-cookie flavors up front. A wave of acidity, with a pineapple tang on the finish is welcome and refreshing.…

RED WINES AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA 95 Tedeschi 2016 Capitel Monte Olmi Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella). For full review see page 170. Tedeschi USA. Cellar Selection. abv: 17% Price: $99 95 Tedeschi 2018 Marne 180 (Amarone della Valpolicella). There is always a meaning in a name and the “Marne 180” is no different. Marne means marl, the type of soil that this vineyard is planted and the 180 references the degree of exposure it has as well. Knowing this, you can better understand the richness, intensity and volume found in this wine. The nose is explosive with blueberry-pie filling, spiced prunes, dates and sweet baking spices. The palate is luscious, but with more earthy notes of bitter chocolate, coffee and graphite. This wine is huge and will be rewarded with some time in the cellar.…

VALTELLINA SUPERIORE 94 Mamete Prevostini 2019 Marena Sassella (Valtellina Superiore). The moment you open this bottle of wine, it screams cherry, which happens to be the name of the wine in the local dialect, “Marena.” In addition to the dark and ripe cherry aromas, the wine has notes of wild berries, roses, freshly turned earth and baking spices. The palate is elegant, with a gorgeous balance between earth and fruit. Finely integrated tannins combined with bright acidity make this a beautifully complete wine. Massanois Imports. —J.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 93 Mamete Prevostini 2019 Garof Grumello (Valtellina Superiore). Garof is the word for stone wall in the local dialect of Valtellina and for centuries these walls have provided the terraces to grow Nebbiolo high in the hills of the region. This hard work…

RED WINES RIOJA 99 Marqués de Riscal 2016 150 Aniversario Gran Reserva (Rioja). Dark-garnet to the eye, this wine has a bouquet of black currant, bittersweet chocolate and almond blossom. It alights on the palate with flavors of blackberry, cassis, chocolate-covered espresso bean, violet and citrus zest. Energetic tannins power their way into a cherry-pie finish. Made with vines more than 30 years old, this wine is unfiltered; decant before serving and strain if necessary. Drink through 2045. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.D. abv: 15% Price: $60 97 Viñedos de Paganos 2018 La Nieta (Rioja). This deeply colored wine features a bouquet of black cherry, white chocolate and clove. It fills the palate with firm tannins and flavors of blackberry preserves, milk chocolate, roasted fennel bulb and orange zest. Notes of violet and flint grace…

While single malt Scotch gets all the headlines, don’t overlook blended Scotch. It’s a category with consistency and heritage: If you’re gifting a bottle of blended Scotch, you know what the experience will be. A few quick, high-level definitions: A single malt Scotch is made with whisky from a single distillery. By comparison, blended Scotch combines malt whisky—either a single malt or many—with grain whisky, which can often mean a lighter, smoother sip. And blended malt whisky, aka vatted malts, combine whiskies made from two or more distilleries, usually making for complex and robust bottlings. “Blended” doesn’t equal “boring”—not by a long shot. Consider Orchard House, the latest in the long line of Compass Box bottlings, appropriately bursting with fresh apple and pear. Or if Scotch isn’t your thing, consider a wider…

Barrel-Aged Beer

Barrel aging has become commonplace at breweries of all sizes across the country. The trend started in the 1990s, when a few intrepid brewers began experimenting with aging stouts in bourbon barrels and received good reviews. Since then, the industry has been off to the races. Today, most breweries have at least some barrels resting in a corner or stacked high. These can be aging any style of ales or lagers, although brewers still tend towards porter and stout or mixed-fermentation ales for wood turns. Barrel use is so widespread that many brewers call them “the fifth ingredient” in fermentation. These barrels, which were previously used for wine, Bourbon or spirits, bring a new dimension to the age-old combination of water, malt, hops and yeast. With barrels that have previously held another alcoholic…

Last Drop: Saving Private Ryan a Few Bucks

The worst part of working in a wine store is the customers. As a sales consultant at Astor Wines and Spirits more than a decade ago, I would relegate myself to the backroom to stock the shelves of New World wine and avoid customer interactions and Old World wine pop quizzes. Monday nights became my favorite. Slowed by the inevitability of the work week, I was generally left alone to fill bins, dust bottles and schedule the few deliveries that would trickle in. It was perfect. I didn’t bother the customers, and the customers didn’t bother me. Until the day The Talented Mr. Ripley decided he needed a big Napa Cab. While calling up boxes of Chilean Carménère, I noticed a customer shaking the lockups. Annoyed, I glanced in his direction…

Last Drop: Saving Private Ryan a Few Bucks

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