Piedmont's Underdog Reds

Celebrated for structured, ageworthy reds made with Nebbiolo—think Barolo and Barbaresco—and for delicious and fun full-bodied Barberas, Piedmont also turns out fascinating reds from other little-known native grapes (some once nearly extinct) chock full of personality. Made with indigenous grapes Ruchè, Pelaverga, Freisa, Grignolino and Vespolina, a few of these lithe reds have genetic relationships with noble Nebbiolo. While they share spicy sensations, they also boast their own distinct aromas, flavors and histories. These singular reds remain largely under the radar, but thanks to their vibrancy, great fruit and savoriness, interest in these varieties is taking off. Not only are a growing number of producers investing in these ancient grapes, but more of these relatively rare wines are making their way outside Italy, including to the U.S. Freisa Grown primarily in the Langhe, Chieri…