Recipe of the Month: Tuesday Night Tonnato

You may have seen this classic popping up on menus all over the place lately—here’s how to do it at home.

Michael Wilson

Piedmont, where it’s called vitel tonnè, may stake its claim on this dish of thinly sliced, slow roasted veal (vitello), coated with a purée of white tuna, eggs and anchovy (the tonnato sauce), served slightly chilled. But while living in Italy, I discovered some sophisticated versions of the dish can also be found in Lombardy, where it’s part of a canon of breezy-but-elegant preparations nibbled upon by the spa-lunch set in Milan. While working on a project with Chef Mark Ladner, we shared more than one discussion about our mutual affection for this dish, which has gone in and out of fashion (currently very much in). Ladner’s method for making it was inspired by a technique used at a destination restaurant in the southeastern corner of Lombardy called Ristorante Ambasciata-Quistello.…

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Wine Enthusiast (Digital) - 1 Issue, August/September 2022

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