The Heathcock 58-60 Bridge Street, Cardiff (02921-152290)
Cardiff has not always been blessed with “great eating options”, says Jay Rayner in The Observer. Happily, though, several interesting-looking restaurants have opened up there in the past few years – and this“reassuringly solid lump of a pub”, in Llandaff to the city’s north, is one of them. With its white-washed walls and embrace of offal, there’s a “touch of Farringdon’s St John” about the Heathcock. And much like that restaurant, it “takes a pleasingly straightforward approach to the business of feeding people well”. The small plates lunch menu is full of good things: silvery fillet of pickled mackerel, resting on a “sweet-sour blood-orange dressing”; butter-yellow ribbons of pappardelle with a rabbit ragu; “dainty pieces of grilled ox heart” on a “multi-layered” confit potato.…
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The Week United Kingdom (Digital) - 1 Issue, 1377