COOKERY ELISABETH LUARD

ELISABETH LUARD

CHRISTMAS IS COMING… Christmas is all about the bird. In Britain, it's goose or turkey, the bigger the better, fortified by as many extras – roasties, brussels sprouts, chestnuts, gravy, mashed swedes, bread sauce – as the cook can handle. In France, the festive bird of choice is feathered game – partridge, pheasant, quail – none of which is as plentiful as they once were in the vineyards and orchards of rural France. This explains the popularity of guinea fowl, a barnyard bird native to African savanna which never really lost the wilderness urge, and prefers, somewhat inconveniently, to roost in trees. As a starter: oysters blitzed under the grill with a crisp little hat of breadcrumbs, parsley, garlic and a scrap of butter. To finish: prune and walnut tart…

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The Oldie (Digital) - 1 Issue, January 2025

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