The same old song

Lisa Hilton is unconvinced by a Nineties remix

BIKINI SEASON MAY BE OVER, but Arlington isn’t so much a restaurant as what the Sidebar of Shame calls a “revenge body”. In case anybody missed it, in 1981, Jeremy King and Christopher Corbin opened a restaurant on Arlington Street. Le Caprice served a mixture of polished gents’ club classics alongside dishes that riffed brilliantly between things smart people only ate in private and spritzy innovations such as the “legendary” bang bang chicken, a Home Counties take on satay. At the time, it was audacious to the point of being revolutionary — a fashionable restaurant that was relaxed, informal and unchallengingly delicious. Everybody went there and everybody who couldn’t read about it in another Eighties innovation, the lifestyle pages of the colour supplements. Then, in 2005, it was bought by…

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The Critic (Digital) - 1 Issue, October 2024

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