A taste of history

Henry Jeffreys appreciates the majestic “Barolo of the South’

THE ONLY TIME I’VE EVER HAD some idea of what it’s like to be an oil sheikh was on holiday in southern Italy with my girlfriend in 2004 when there were two euros to the pound. We flew into Rome, took the train to Naples and Salerno and explored the Amalfi coast by boat. Everywhere we went, we ordered the finest wines made from grapes that were new to me such as Falanghina, Greco and Fiano which we ate with fritto misto. Best of all was Taurasi, a sturdy red known as the “Barolo of the South”. In the kind of restaurants we ate at this was usually the most expensive wine on the list, though that rarely meant more than €40 — £20 — a bottle. Ah! halcyon days!…

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The Critic (Digital) - 1 Issue, November 2024

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