Belle époque on a plate

Lisa Hilton dines in fine style at The Goring

IN 2011, I WAS ONE OF SEVERAL historians lured into participating in an episode of the popular TV show Supersizers, themed around the wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton. Had I known that it involved being forced into a fascinator to consume Eggs Drumkilbo, the BBC could have kept their fifty quid. I don’t believe the scene made it through the edit, as none of us could keep the revulsion off our faces. Eggs Drumkilbo is an abomination in aspic, involving lobster, prawns, hardboiled eggs, anchovy essence, Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco in tomato jelly. Reputedly popular with the Queen Mother, it was served at the Princess Royal’s wedding in 1973 and again for Andrew and Fergie in 1986. Lucky dish, then. It’s still on the menu at The Goring,…

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The Critic (Digital) - 1 Issue, November 2024

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