Chard: an apology

Henry Jeffreys resigns from the “anything but chardonnay” club

RIESLING, THE GREAT GRAPE of Germany, has long been a cult among wine lovers. Some sommeliers even have riesling tattoos. And while I wouldn’t go that far, if you’d asked me my favourite grape, until very recently I would have said riesling. But the funny thing is that my buying preferences show something different. I’m mildly addicted to a website called Cellar Tracker where I have been recording almost every wine I’ve tried for more than ten years, and it seems the white grape that I drink the most of isn’t riesling at all … it’s chardonnay. All this time I thought I was a sophisticated riesling lover but actually I’m a common or garden chardonnay swiller. Back in the 1990s when I first got into wine, there was a…

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The Critic (Digital) - 1 Issue, November 2023

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