Posh pinks

Henry Jeffreys prefers his upscale rosés sans biodynamic woo-woo

THE INSIDE OF CLOS DU TEMPLE winery in the Languedoc looks like a set from the original Star Trek. The wine is housed in a series of 10-foot black bauxite pyramids each topped with gold, or “gold pyramidion overcoming the vats” as the publicity material describes it. One can imagine Captain Kirk stepping out from behind one of them in pursuit of a comely green alien. The whole winery, set on a hillside at Cabrières not far from Beziers, has a 1960s science-fiction feel. The pyramids aren’t just there to look pretty. According to winemaker Benjamin Gadois they “channel the forces of the cosmos into the wine”. Well, I couldn’t let that one lie, could I? I asked him whether they had done trials where you could taste the difference…

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The Critic (Digital) - 1 Issue, June 2024

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