My Magyar dish

Felipe Fernández-Armesto swaps chicken for venison

VAINGLORY, NOT GLUTTONY, took me to Budapest. The government esteems the Magyar Külügyi Intézet, the Institute of International Affairs. So the invitation to give lectures and seminars made me hope I might do some good. The Institute was full of learning and vibrancy. To go to the opera was like being locked in a jewel casket: plush and intimate, yet grand and glorious (though an over-zealous director managed to make Boris Godunov irrational but unexotic). Other highlights of the trip were slabs of goose liver piled on the cakes of fried dough that Hungarians favour, heaps of peppery tripe with marrow fat, soup stiff with roe and lumps of carp, schnitzels cut from a Mangalica pig (a half-wild beast peculiar to Hungary), abundant boar and venison, the soft round egg…

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The Critic (Digital) - 1 Issue, July 2024

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