Confidently Cantonese

Lisa Hilton chows down at the charming Royal China

SPRING IS THE GAYEST SEASON for London restaurant openings. Arlington, July, The Cocochine, Lita, Oma — which to choose? Sometimes though, amidst the merry whirl of town life, it can be refreshing to dine in a restaurant that isn’t hustling for your attention, a place that no one will ask you if you’ve been to yet, which is entirely free of list-checking, status-adjacent anxiety. Royal China on Baker Street has been exactly such a restaurant since it opened in 2005. It’s not the latest, or the coolest, which makes it fantastically soothing; reliable for unfussy celebrations, quick catch-up lunches or impromptu late-night feasts. If you have recently become divorced or need a venue for a discreet row, the tables are satisfyingly far apart and no one will look at you…

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The Critic (Digital) - 1 Issue, July 2024

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