Unobtrusively superlative

 Lisa Hilton dines at a quietly brilliant Chelsea staple where the food practically tap dances off the fork

PUTTING FUN FESTIVE activities might come as a relief to many of us, but I’ve always enjoyed the Christmas holidays as an opportunity to catch up with what the youngs are into. About a minute ago this seemed to involve setting up slightly risqué tableaux with Sylvanian families, but this year my teenage daughter and her cousins spent most of their time hilariously stalking their friends’ profiles on the Hinge dating app. Hinge promises “impactful” hook ups, which sounded like something Uncle Badger might get up to with Mistress Mouse, until they explained that Hinge helps users along by providing conversation starters, just like the ones you still get in crackers. Sample prompts included “What do you do on Sundays?” and “If you could have dinner with one person, dead…

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The Critic (Digital) - 1 Issue, February 2024

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