Woman About Town

LISA HILTON Toasting a maestro GIOACHINO ANTONIO ROSSINI WAS SAID TO HAVEwept thrice in his adult life; once when his first opera was booed, a second time when he heard Niccolò Paganini play and last when he watched, appalled, as a truffle-stuffed turkey fell out of a picnic basket into Lake Como. I owe this anecdote to Michael Contarini Procino, polymath, gastronome and Venetian neighbour who held a dinner in Rossini’s honour for the Venice chapter of the Chaine des Rotisseurs. This glorious fraternity of feasters has more than 25,000 members in 80 countries, all dedicated to conviviality enjoyed over food and wine. Daniele Zennaro, chef at Algiubagio in Cannaregio, served the most delicate risotto, followed naturally by Tournedos Rossini, finest of the nine dishes to bear the composer’s name.…

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The Critic (Digital) - 1 Issue, December/January 2025

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