The art of fast food

Empty shelves need not mean dreary eating, says Felipe Fernández-Armesto

HURRAH FOR FOOD SHORTAGES! In my land of abundance on the superior side of the Atlantic I read about beleaguered Britain: empty shelves, bare cupboards and idle HGVs. I start imagining a morally enhanced future, where readers of The Critic tighten belts and restore the spirit of the Blitz, digging for Brexit in vegetable gardens converted from former rose-bowers and ornamental walks, and spreading napkins at Christmas dinners to catch costly fragments of snoek and Woolton Pie. “Is it really as bad as the media here say?” I ask my wife on a video call. “It’s dreadful,” she says, threatening me, if I get home to Northamptonshire, with a Christmas bereft of such basic necessities as Carlsbad plums or clementines or such human rights as brandade, fresh pineapple and roscones.…

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The Critic (Digital) - 1 Issue, December 2021

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