Keeping it funky

Henry Jeffreys hails an Argentine winery that revels in the old ways

EVERYTHING ABOUT Weinert in Argentina suggests that the company has been there for generations. There’s the winery itself, housed in a Romanesque nineteenthcentury building in Mendoza, full of huge oak casks of slowly ageing wine. But most of all it’s in the glass. In a country where the wines can be clean to the point of tedium, Weinert stands out. Its wines are full of heady fruit, like cooked strawberries or maraschino cherries; there’s old leather, nuts and hints of vinegar and farmyard. The nearest comparison would be something like Château Musar from Lebanon or Lopez de Heredia in Rioja. Yet its first vintage was 1976. The founder, Bernardo Weinert, was born in Brazil of Austrian descent. He came from a small German-speaking community in the south of the country…

You're reading a preview of

The Critic (Digital) - 1 Issue, April 2023

DiscountMags is a licensed distributor (not a publisher) of the above content and Publication through Zinio LLC. Accordingly, we have no editorial control over the Publications. Any opinions, advice, statements, services, offers or other information or content expressed or made available by third parties, including those made in Publications offered on our website, are those of the respective author(s) or publisher(s) and not of DiscountMags. DiscountMags does not guarantee the accuracy, completeness, truthfulness, or usefulness of all or any portion of any publication or any services or offers made by third parties, nor will we be liable for any loss or damage caused by your reliance on information contained in any Publication, or your use of services offered, or your acceptance of any offers made through the Service or the Publications. For content removal requests, please contact Zinio.