Skipping the light fantastic

Lisa Hilton is wowed by the food, and her fellow diners, at a new restaurant in Notting Hill

TABLE-HOPPING USED to be a thing, something you read about in Tom Wolfe novels. Park Avenue people rubbing power shoulders at Le Cirque or Lutece, a merger here, a movie deal there, in between who was skiing in Aspen or summering on Nantucket. It always sounded so glamorous, in an Eighties kind of way, but I’d never seen it done until I lunched at Dorian. Opened last year on Notting Hill’s Talbot Road, the restaurant aspired to be “a bistro for locals” so given its location in the postcode that’s been living its best life since 1997, I had high expectations of both the premises and the crowd. The room is charming and simple — ubiquitous green banquettes, wrap-around bar with a view to the open kitchen, confident plate-glass windows…

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The Critic (Digital) - 1 Issue, April 2023

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