Still Standing

In a world obsessed with the new and the shiny, these old-school institutions remind us that some things are best left unchanged

By Fontaine Cheng

OFF MENU There’s something quietly magnificent about dining institutions that have withstood the test of time. In an era where food trends come and go faster than you can say “croffle”, a handful of legacy restaurants in Hong Kong, Macau and Guangzhou continue to defy the odds, serving up tradition with a generous helping of nostalgia on the side. Forget dry ice theatrics or dishes topped with edible foam that vanishes before you can figure out what it’s for. What these restaurants offer is far harder to come by: character and continuity. Let’s start with Lin Heung Tea House in Hong Kong, where time seemed to stand still for decades—until it briefly wobbled, flirted with closure, and then, in typical Hong Kong fashion, reopened as if nothing had happened. Established…

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Tatler Hong Kong (Digital) - 1 Issue, October 2024

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