RETURN TO ROOTS

Putting their trust in tradition, and their focus on flavours of the past, these Latin American chefs are reintroducing indigenous ingredients to their menus

By Coco Marett & Victoria Burrows

MEXICO CITY, MEXICO JESUS TORNÉS EXPENDIO DE MAIZ SIN NOMBRE Jesus Tornés carries the spirit of Mexico with him wherever he goes—whether that’s cruising through the country on his motorcycle as a young cook with just 300 pesos (US$17) to his name, spending time with farmers and producers in rural Mexico to learn the stories hidden in their soil, or hunched over flames at Expendio de Maiz sin Nombre, often shortened to Expendio de Maiz, his restaurant in Mexico City’s vibrant Roma Norte district. The restaurant started as a love letter to one of the country’s most humble yet essential foods: the tortilla. Tornés grew up watching his grandmother nixtamalise corn to make masa, which was then pressed into tortillas. It’s a process that has now become sacred in his…

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Tatler Hong Kong (Digital) - 1 Issue, October 2023

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