Where No Chef Has Gone Before

Despite the relative open-mindedness of Hong Kong diners, the city still has much room for improvement when it comes to being a global capital of culinary innovation—but these restaurants are paving the way forward

By Gavin Yeung

Hong Kong is an enigma when it comes to culinary innovation. True, our well-travelled denizens are more accepting of left-field cuisines than many other Asian cities, yet at the same time, the city’s ultra-high rents discourage restaurateurs from taking risks on culinary formulas that haven’t already been tried and tested a thousand times over. Against the odds, there are still those mavericks who go against the grain. Feuille, the winner of Tatler Dining’s Best New Restaurant, is a paramount example of this: despite having no prior attachment to Hong Kong, respected French chef David Toutain, of the eponymous two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris, has managed to corral locally sourced, sustainably grown ingredients into a plant-forward menu that not only delivers deliciously novel flavours by the spade, but so with a diminutive…

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Tatler Hong Kong (Digital) - 1 Issue, June 2024

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