The New Icons

No longer does a reference to Chinese wine mean Maotai or ‘that Great Wall stuff’—the country’s industry is now a force to be reckoned with

By Sarah Heller MW

The decade and a half since I joined the wine industry has been fascinating for Chinese wine. China’s vineyard land grew until it (briefly) outstripped that of France; a Chinese wine won a trophy in a major global wine competition, and reactions to the term “Chinese wine” went from “That Great Wall stuff?” or “You mean Maotai?” to “Grace Vineyards, Ao Yun or Long Dai?” Few could have foreseen in 2008 that today we would be in a position to speak in all earnestness about Chinese “icon” wines. For context, this sort of meteoric rise took over a century in the United States, the only producer (and market) that provides a reasonable comparison. Though China also opened its first major winery in the 1800s (Changyu, established in 1892), its wine…

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Tatler Hong Kong (Digital) - 1 Issue, August 2022

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