10 OF THE BEST

BAROLO AND BARBARESCO ROAGNA BARBARESCO PAJÉ DOCG 2007 White-hot Roagna’s prices are skyrocketing, but the wines remain classically understated. Luca Roagna, whose vineyards resemble abandoned heaths more than birthplaces of greatness, is a die-hard traditionalist. The wines take a little while to blossom, staying tight and forbidding for their first decade, but precocious 2007 is starting to reveal gemlike strawberry fruit under its burly leather exoskeleton. AZELIA SAN ROCCO BAROLO DOCG 2012 Burgundy lovers will adore the new generation of silky, “Burgundian” Barolo styles that don’t need 10 years of ageing. With eyewatering Burgundy prices, under-the-radar Barolos like Azelia from Luigi and Lorenzo Scavino are the perfect way to establish insider cred with wine geeks. Single-vineyard San Rocco introduces itself with a diaphanous, perfumed red berry smile but follows with…