A line from a recent interview we ran has really stuck with me. It was from Lachie Rombouts, talking about Russ Bierke, who he surfs with regularly on big days out on the South Coast reefs. Lachie said, “Russ sees patterns in the ocean the rest of us don’t.” This skill invariably puts Russ in the right spot, on the right wave, on the right reef on the right day. But that’s just half of what makes him special. The other half is that once he catches that wave, more often than not, he does the impossible and makes it.
I’ve been reading a lot lately about the Hōkūle’a, the Hawaiian voyaging canoe built in the 1970s to revive the art of wayfaring; the ancient skill that allowed the early…
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Surfing World (Digital) - 1 Issue, Issue 424