JJF

NICK CARROLL

You wouldn’t even have known he was out there. Cloudbreak is a solid six feet, a coupla feet bigger on the sets, and around 30 people are drifting and scrapping through the lineup. Hedgey is getting too many waves because he can’t help it, and Billy Kemper not enough because he’s sitting too far up the reef. A couple of resort guides are scoring, and a couple of Australian sneakers are getting their share. Then halfway up the line on the first ledge someone with a red board and red shorts is suddenly on the wave of the morning. He slides to his feet like he’s stepping out of a limo, and everyone stops to watch… What? When did he paddle out?? World champions don’t normally just vanish in a…

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Surfing World (Digital) - 1 Issue, Issue 424

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