Liam O’Brien

“Well, I’m not that interesting, in my own mind. I am still working out who I am. I’m frothing on surfing so much sometimes that I neglect other parts of my life. I love chasing swells and getting epic waves, but I’ll just as soon grovel on an epoxy when I get there if the waves don’t show up. “My first surf coach was Munga Barry. He taught me a lot. It’s been a good thing to have my surfing influenced by a surfer like him. Munga’s an oracle in the ocean. He would go to the North Shore for the contests and stay when everyone else left and I carry that on from him. Hawaii is such a vibrant culture with such great history. It’s character building. Locals are…

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Surfing World (Digital) - 1 Issue, Issue 424

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