Wednesday morning, 6am, Iluka.
It’s the second day of spring but howling offshore and bitingly cold. Two days before broke a record for the hottest North Coast winter day ever. Work that out.
It’s so cold, local dawn-stalkers have started a fire on the breakwall to keep warm. Pacha is nearby, wrapped in a traditional poncho, watching the surf. It’s like she’s emerged from the mist of the Ecuadorian Andes, which, it turns out, is where she was born.
Her mum Anja is with her, as are the family dogs. Anja is walking along the breakwall in bare feet and shorts. Growing up, Pacha’s parents were environmental activists, social crusaders, musicians and Bohemian spirits. The kids – Pacha and brother Yani – were along for the ride. All of it.…
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Surfing World (Digital) - 1 Issue, Issue 424