Game Cookery

Tim Maddams calls for a return of the underrated and misunderstood ‘soup of the day’ as the best way to make the most of those leftover cuts

Soup. So underrated and misunderstood, and often maligned by chefs. In recent years, meaty soups seem to have almost vanished from restaurant menus up and down these isles as ‘soup of the day’ has become a bit old-fashioned. Instead, time-starved chefs are opting for ease and making vegetable soups that are a tick in the box for the meat-dodging fraternity. Fish soup often makes an appearance — no doubt a nod to those who don’t eat meat but do eat fish — and I have to say I feel a little bit sorry for poor old meat-filled soups. They are such wondrous and useful culinary creations, useful for using up odd cuts and stocks and wondrous for the marriage of savoury, salty meaty goodness and sweet and textural veg. “Chefs are making…

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Shooting Times & Country (Digital) - 1 Issue, 2-Aug-2023

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