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27 Articles

Editor’s letter

Scotland is renowned as much for its lochs and glens, towering munros and fertile forests, as it is for its tales of outlanders and heroic clans. For a taste of all of the above, Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park, where the Lowlands meet the Highlands, is the place to go, and this issue I returned to the western shores of its namesake loch to explore its clan history a little closer in On the Bonnie, Bonnie Banks (p14). Another place that is a microcosm of Scotland is Arran, one of Scotland’s most accessible isles and the only island where you can spot all of Scotland’s ‘Big Five’ animals – red deer, otters, red squirrels, golden eagles, and harbour seals – and in Wild Isle (p73), our writer did…

Editor’s letter

WIN A GREAT BRITISH HOLIDAY

There is still time (just) to enter our competition to win a holiday to Britain, which includes tickets to Edinburgh Castle, a stay in a luxury boutique hotel in the Scottish capital, plus a trip to the quaint villages and rolling hills of the Cotswolds and a five-star luxury stay in London. The closing date is 31 July 2022, and the trip can be taken between 1 September 2022 and 31 May 2023, subject to availability. For full Ts and Cs and to be in with the chance of winning this fabulous prize, go to scotlandmag.com/great-british-holiday-competition…

WIN A GREAT BRITISH HOLIDAY

SWAP YOUR HOME FOR A CASTLE

No, your eyes are not deceiving you. You really can trade in your home for a Scottish castle – at least for a week or two – thanks to a home swap scheme that costs less than £100 per year. Love Home Swap has some incredible properties on its books, including the 500-year-old tower house, Duchray Castle (pictured), located in the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park in Loch Lomond & The Trossachs, which comes with original beams, wood-panelling, and four-poster beds. Other properties include a historic house on the banks of Loch Ness and a wooden cabin hidden away in the Highlands. For an annual fee of £96, you can choose to do straight home swaps, where you go and stay in a home and the owner of that home comes…

A rare 18th-century dress, worn by the 2nd Duchess of Atholl, is to form the centrepiece of a new period fashion show at Blair Castle, in Perthshire, this year. Incredibly, this beautiful dress, made from hand-painted ivory Chinese silk and edged with gold thread brocade, ruffles, and pleats, lay in storage in a trunk simply labelled ‘clothes’ in the castle’s archives for years. The dress will now go on display at the castle as part of the Castle Couture: 1740-1844 exhibition, which includes other outfits once worn by members of Britain’s high society, from the Jacobite era to Victorian times, including fashionable waistcoats and lace dresses. Keren Guthrie, archivist at Blair Castle, said: “Pulling together this exhibition has been a fascinating journey. While we knew of some items in the…

POWER TO THE PEOPLE

Locals on the Knoydart peninsula are toasting their success, having bought Britain’s ‘most remote pub’ in what is considered a landmark deal. Until recently, The Old Forge in Inverie, the main port in Knoydart, was owned by Belgian Jean-Pierre Robinet. However, as Megan Eaves reported in Issue 119, locals were desperate to run the pub as a community venture – having already successfully bought a large part of the Knoydart Estate in 1999. In 2021, The Old Forge Community Benefit Society (CBS) was set up with the aim of raising money to buy the pub through crowdfunding. Additional financial support came from the Scottish Land Fund and the Community Ownership Fund, and on 28 March 2022, the CBS received the keys to the pub. On a statement on their website,…

FOLLOW THE FOOD

Two of Edinburgh’s most luxurious hotels – The Witchery by the Castle and Prestonfield – have joined one of the city’s most prestigious tour operators, Sleigh’s, to offer tailor-made food trails that will give guests unrivalled access to food and drink producers from the Lothians to Perthshire and Stirlingshire. On the chauffeur-driven ‘Taste of Scotland’ food trails, guests can visit places such as Scotland’s oldest working distillery, The Glenturret, where they can dine in its new Michelin-starred restaurant; meet the fishermen of Belhaven Lobster at Dunbar harbour; or learn about the ethos of sustainable agriculture and diversification at Old Leckie Farm. James Thomson, owner of Prestonfield and The Witchery by the Castle, said: “To help mark Scotland’s official year of stories in 2022, we’re really excited to be working with…

FOLLOW THE FOOD

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

SCOTLAND 5-27 August 2022 THE ROYAL EDINBURGH MILITARY TATTOO, EDINBURGH This year’s show will celebrate the power of ‘voices’ through music and military precision. edintattoo.co.uk 5-29 August 2022 EDINBURGH FESTIVAL FRINGE The world’s largest cultural arts festival transforms Scotland’s capital every August. edfringe.com 14 August 2022 PERTH HIGHLAND GAMES Held in the grounds of Scone Palace, enjoy heavyweight events and a pipe band contest. perthhighlandgames.co.uk 21 August 2022 CRIEFF HIGHLAND GATHERING, PERTHSHIRE This year’s event will be ‘The Platinum Jubilee Crieff Highland Gathering’, in honour of Her Majesty The Queen’s 70-year reign. crieffhighlandgathering.com 25-27 August 2022 COWAL HIGHLAND GATHERING, ARGYLL The world’s biggest Highland Games, complete with World Highland Dancing Championships. cowalgathering.com 3 September 2022 BRAEMAR HIGHLAND GATHERING, ABERDEENSHIRE Traditionally attended by members of the Royal Family, these are the…

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

Notes from the Isles

One of my somewhat hubristic assertions has always been that I prefer ‘proper’ weather: rain should drench; sun should burn; the wind should be violent: there should be no boring dreich compromises. I am now regretting such idiocy. A series of bad storms hit us recently, serious enough to have names: Dudley, Corrie, Eunice… with Gladys approaching as I write. Dudley was my nemesis. The house shook, the tiles flew like falling leaves, a fence was flattened; worst of all, the electricity was cut off for two days. I could cope with no lighting, heating, hot water, or telephone. I had a bag of half-used candles so I could read in the evening, but that was daunting because my chair is under a window and the curtains billowed out like…

Notes from the Isles

WE’VE GOT MAIL

MORE THAN A FLIGHT OF FANCY My wife Blanche and I enjoyed your review of Glenapp Castle as we have had the pleasure of spending a night there several years ago when it was owned by the McMillan family. It is a charming castle. I don’t remember seeing the Churchill portrait – possibly it is an addition of Paul and Poppy Szkiler, the present owners. Jack Hunter’s 2008 book A Flight Too Far, The story of Elsie Mackay of Glenapp, gives more detail on Elsie’s remarkable 1928 failed attempt to fly westward non-stop from England to Long Island, USA, against the prevailing winds in a single engine plane. Elsie’s double ambition was to make the more difficult first east-west solo crossing of the Atlantic by plane and the first either…

On the Bonnie, Bonnie Banks

“By yon bonnie banks and by yon bonnie braes, Where the sun shines bright on Loch Lomond, Where me and my true love were ever wont to gae, On the bonnie, bonnie banks o’ Loch Lomond.” This Scottish anthem, supposedly a Jacobite reworking of an earlier song, which is still sung with gusto at many a gathering and gig, does little to dampen the romance of Loch Lomond, and nor should it. Loch Lomond and its surrounds, which were packaged together as Scotland’s first national park 20 years ago, is an epic landscape, where the Lowlands meet the Highlands. It’s a place of icy-blue waters, fringed with lush forests and wooded glens and guarded by mighty mountains – not least Ben Lomond, the most southerly of all of Scotland’s munros.…

On the Bonnie, Bonnie Banks

PLAN YOUR VISIT

CAMERON HOUSE Take a seaplane trip for aerial views, a private cruise on Loch Lomond, or go off-road in Clan Colquhoun country. You’ll never be short of ideas at this resort hotel. cameronhouse.co.uk LOCH LOMOND ARMS A boutique hotel with elegant interiors and delicious dishes featuring produce sourced direct from the Luss Estate, in the pretty village of Luss. lochlomondarmshotel.com AUCHENTULLICH FARM SHOP For local produce, and farm-fresh ice cream, you can’t go wrong with this shop, just make sure you leave some for other customers. facebook.com/auchentullichfarmshop GETTING THERE Luss is just a 45-minute drive from Glasgow, following the M8 northwest out of the city before joining the A82. Trains from Glasgow Queen Street take just 45 minutes to reach Balloch at the southern end of the loch. From here,…

GLASGOW’S greatest gifts

Stand in Pollok Country Park and you could be in the heart of the countryside – there are woodlands, fields, and Highland cattle. Of course, you are not in the countryside but in Scotland’s largest city, and though the rural idyll is something of an illusion, the two world-class cultural attractions are not. The Burrell Collection is housed in a modern, award-winning building designed specifically for its art. Pollok House is also filled with works of art, but it is a considerably older stately home. That the Burrell Collection and Pollok House – and their valuable contents – are open to visitors is thanks to the generosity of wealthy Glasgow families, as both were gifted to the City of Glasgow. The Burrell Collection is the star of Glasgow’s cultural scene…

GLASGOW’S greatest gifts

PLAN YOUR VISIT

THE BURRELL COLLECTION Admire the Burrell’s world-class collection of tapestries and stained-glass and explore objects spanning six millennia, from prehistoric artefacts, through Chinese ceramics to ground-breaking works by the Impressionists. The glass-walled cafe, with its emphasis on Scottish produce, is the perfect spot to reflect on the art. Open daily, entry to the museum is free, but temporary exhibitions may be charged for. burrellcollection.com POLLOK HOUSE Cared for by the National Trust for Scotland, you can explore the Edwardian family’s elegant living rooms and their extraordinary possessions, and see how the servants lived in their vast downstairs quarters. The Edwardian Kitchen cafe serves modern-day favourites to hungry house or park visitors. nts.org.uk/visit/places/pollok-house GETTING TO POLLOK COUNTRY PARK The park’s main entrance is near to Pollokshaws West station, 10 minutes from…

A royally good CRUISE

When the Royal Yacht Britannia and Prince Charles sailed out of Hong Kong in 1997 into the pages of history, Her Majesty The Queen, bade a sad farewell. Farewell to a retired maritime steed who had led her and her family on so many glorious adventures around Scotland’s west coast. It was not long, though, before the British Royal Family had found a stand-in just as grand – a remarkable ship that today anyone can sail on, in the wake of royalty on a luxurious adventure fit for a monarch. The MV Columba on the face of it seems an unlikely stand-in, or she did at least in her years as a 2,112-tonne, 235ft-long, five-deck vessel with a 46ft beam, which was much more used to ferrying passengers and their…

A royally good CRUISE

The making of sporrans has been a part of Scottish culture for centuries. The exact origins of sporrans are unknown, but it is believed that they originated in the 12th century as part of the male Scottish Highland dress A survival of the medieval purse, the sporran (Gaelic for purse) was in essence the Highlander’s pocket, as they wore kilts rather than trousers. Traditionally, the sporran, often made of animal skin, was worn around the waist and was gathered at the top by simple drawstrings, and was used to carry oats and other items. Over the years the purpose of a sporran transformed into a way to carry ammunition for Highland soldiers and daily rations, while the three tassels featured at the front, whose original purpose was to hit flies…

THE KING AND THE PLAYWRIGHT

Mist hangs over the wintry River Tay, obscuring an ancient oak tree whose aged branches, thick like the arms of a caber-tosser, are propped up by crutches. It is the same kind of weather that envelops the scenes of William Shakespeare’s Macbeth as the king is slowly consumed by the ramifications of his dishonourable deeds. It was fitting weather then, because this oak – known as the Birnam Oak – is the celebrated sole survivor of its species from the original wood that once lined the riverbank just outside Birnam. Aged over 500 years old, it is the only tree remaining that would have stood when Shakespeare was immortalising this very wood with his quill. “Macbeth shall never vanquished be, until Great Birnan (sic) Wood to High Dunsinane Hill Shall come…

THE KING AND THE PLAYWRIGHT

GLASGOW HIGH STREET

Atrip to Glasgow without visiting the High Street is a wasted one. The High Street is Glasgow’s oldest and most significant street; it forms the main artery of the city and can easily trace its history back to medieval times. It has played home to many significant figures in Glasgow’s history, such as the inventor James Watt, economist and philosopher Adam Smith, and poet Thomas Campbell. Officially consecrated in 1197, Glasgow Cathedral at the far end of the street (where it turns into Castle Street) is dedicated to Saint Kentigern – also known as Saint Mungo – the patron saint of the city, and is the oldest building still in use in Glasgow City. Saint Mungo is best known for his four miracles, which are commemorated in the City of…

GLASGOW HIGH STREET

Cashmere, that super-soft wool from the Kashmir goat, a breed that originated in the Kashmir region of India, has long been considered the finest material for knitting and weaving cosy scarves and jumpers. The wool is so soft as it is the downy undercoat grown beneath coarser, weather-proof hair by the goats, which keeps them warm in winter, and which is then shed in spring and summer. Empress Joséphine, wife of Napoleon, is said to have popularised the wearing of Kashmir in the French court after her husband brought her back a pashmina Kashmir shawl from an expedition in Egypt. It’s easy to see how the fashion travelled from the French court to the Scottish court (with the name becoming anglicised along the way) encouraging Scottish mills to begin spinning…

Pomp with a point

Resplendent in decorative tabards of gold, scarlet, and blue, with black and gold bicorn hats, the Heralds and Pursuivants of Scotland are to be seen on parade whenever there is an important display of national pageantry. But there is far more to these symbolic remnants of a bygone age than meets the eye. Although the Court of the Lord Lyon King of Arms is known to date from the 14th century, its mythology lies deep in the mists of a long ago land of Celts and Druids, where High Sennachies were primarily held responsible for recording the genealogies of the ruling houses of Scotland. In a medieval world preoccupied with primogeniture, it was critical to have a judicial authority to oversee pedigree, precedence and inheritance. European Chivalry – collectively knights,…

Pomp with a point

THE HOME OF GOLF

From 10-17 July 2022, the home of golf will host the 150th Open at the world-famous Old Course at St Andrews. The world’s greatest players will descend on Fife’s well-groomed town to try and claim the Claret Jug – the tournament’s trophy – and the pretty Scottish seaside town will be abuzz with crowds of golf fans, novices and tourists alike. The first reference to golf in the historic town of St Andrews was in 1552, but the game appears to have been around earlier than that, having evolved from a game played in the 15th century around St Andrews and Fife, when players would attempt to hit a pebble over sand dunes and around tracks using a bent stick or a club. In fact, the sport became so popular…

THE HOME OF GOLF

TEE OFF ELSEWHERE

PRESTWICK GOLF CLUB The birthplace of the Open Championship, and designed by golf legend Old Tom Morris, teeing off at Prestwick Golf Club is a rite of passage for any golf fan. Just 30 miles north of Glasgow, the course is built on the rolling sandy land between the beach and the hinterland and is really quite spectacular. prestwickgc.co.uk GLENEAGLES Gleneagles is one of the greatest names for golf in Scotland, and home to three of the top courses in the country. In the heart of Scotland, beneath the beautiful Ochil Hills, the five-star Victorian mansion hotel and spa boasts 850 acres of grounds and is the only venue in Europe to have hosted the Ryder and Solheim Cups. gleneagles.com ROYAL DORNOCH Situated on the stunning Dornoch Firth, most serious…

PLAN YOUR VISIT

WHERE TO EAT For some classic, yet modern Scottish fare book a table at Forgan’s, a St Andrews culinary institution with a buzzy atmosphere, regular live music and a cèilidh every Friday. forgans.co.uk For a ‘sit on the beach and enjoy the sunset’ kind of evening, Cromar’s fish and chips has been voted the best fish and chips in Scotland twice. Perfection. cromars.co.uk WHERE TO STAY For golf lovers, there really is only one choice of accommodation. The Old Course Hotel sits right on the course itself, looking out over the sea and the rest of the town. With a spa, fine dining and a perfect little pub, Jigger Inn, for a post-round pint, you’ll want for nothing. oldcoursehotel.co.uk A little further out of the town, the Fairmont, St Andrews,…

HOAXER OR HERO?

The tale of the 18th-century Ossian hoax is one of the most complex and unusual yarns of the times. It grabbed headlines, involved influential figures around the world, and was the talk of the town A simple version of this narrative sets the scene during the height of Enlightenment Edinburgh, when a young Scot, James Macpherson, ventured to his Highland homeland in the 1760s to interview native Gaelic speakers and storytellers, to track down ancient tales that had been passed down the centuries by oral tradition or captured in ancient manuscripts. Remarkably, the young man swiftly struck gold, uncovering the poems of a 3rd-century bard called Ossian, who told the tale of Fingal, a Scottish warrior king. Such finds were declared remarkable works to rival the likes of Virgil and…

HOAXER OR HERO?

GREAT SAVINGS WHEN YOU SUBSCRIBE

Discover the rich history of Scotland and become a subscriber today Order an annual subscription to Scotland magazine for yourself or as a gift: UK £23.95 | Europe €41.95 | USA $39.95 | Canada $44.95 | Australia $79.95 | Rest of World £39.95 USA & Canada go to www.chelseamagazines.com/SC-J234S1 Or phone 800-925-8215 (quoting code J234S1) UK & ROW go to www.chelseamagazines.com/CSCO0322 Or phone +44 (0)1858 438 789 (quoting code CSCO0322) Savings based on the regular subscription price. If for any reason you’re not happy with your subscription, you may cancel within 14 days of placing your order…

GREAT SAVINGS WHEN YOU SUBSCRIBE

“Will we see all the Big Five daddy?”, asks my youngest as we roll off the ferry under the brooding hulk of Arran’s hills. We’re here for a week, so I’m cautiously optimistic, with Arran the only isle to boast red deer, otters, red squirrels, golden eagles, and harbour seals. It doesn’t end there, with sea eagles, basking sharks and even whales – not to mention Scotland’s first all-island snorkel trail – thriving around Scotland’s wildlife isle. Scotland’s seventh largest island, and the largest island in the Firth of Clyde, is often eulogised as ‘Scotland in Miniature’, which metaphorically it certainly is. The Highland Boundary Fault sears right through Arran’s heart, gnarling the north into a wildscape of soaring mountains, tumbling glens, and gushing burns. The south is gentler: rolling…

PLAN YOUR VISIT

ARRAN ALPACAS An Alpaca trek on Arran is a novel but beautiful way to enjoy the natural environment of Arran. arranalpacas.co.uk ARRAN SNORKEL TRAIL Take a closer look at marine life above and below the water on a snorkelling tour along Arran’s coastline. scottishwildlifetrust.org.uk/things-to-do/snorkel-trails/ BELLEVUE FARM Meet the animals and buy fresh milk and delicious cheeses at this lovely farm. bellevue-arran.co.uk GETTING THERE There are two Caledonian MacBrayne ferries you can take to Arran – from Ardrossan to Brodick, or from Claonaig on the Kintyre peninsula to Lochranza in the north of the isle. calmac.co.uk TOURIST INFORMATION Visit Arran is a font of inspiration of where to go and what to do on the isle. visitarran.com…

THE STORY BEHIND…

Amid lockdown’s many challenges, as musicians, we were able to find a faint silver lining – time. Time to create, time to practice, or even time to forget about music altogether. After several years of non-stop music-making, I decided to do the latter – get away from the city for a few months and head home to Assynt. It was during this time at home, while reading the book We Have Won the Land that I had the early idea for this record. The book, written by John MacAskill, gives an in-depth account of the Assynt Crofters’ Trust’s historic and extraordinary campaign to buy back the land from foreign landowners in the early 90s. Although slightly before my time, my family were involved in the campaign from the very beginning…

THE STORY BEHIND…

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