THE LONG AND WINDING ROAD

Notes on the nation's oldest scenic byway, the Historic Columbia River Highway.

Katy Spratte Joyce

“Where the hell are we?” my friend, Katie, asks nervously. “I think only a mile or so off track,” I reply, trying to manifest that answer into actuality. We are between two ferns—err, between two wine regions, traveling from the famed Willamette Valley to the Columbia River Gorge, an up and coming viticulture haven. It's faster to hop on Interstate 84 from Portland, but a tip from our host at the Domaine Serene Winery between pinots has led us to the Historic Columbia River Highway, America's first scenic highway. There is a slew of actual ferns on the verdant hillside next to the slick, gravel pathway that our rented Jeep slowly inches down. An unplanned road closure has turned a pleasant scenic diversion into a harrowing drive, with little to…

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ROVA (Digital) - 1 Issue, Thirty-Nine: October/November 2023

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