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16 Articles

Putting together a magazine is a lot of work. More than I could have imagined. Thanks to my son Carter and my roommate Josh for enduring. To Heather Arndt-Anderson for early support, encouragement, and feedback. To the powerful women in my life who listened when it mattered most: Lisa, Nicky, Jacquelyn, and Sasha. Mark Russell for your wordsmithery. Hailey and Jenny for last minute help. Woody, Brent, Jasin, Scrappers, my Fair Family, the Laurelthirst Crowd, and all the people who backed or otherwise supported the Kickstarter campaign. David Lawless, Josh Bair, Josh Winegarner, and John Askew for your help and guidance on the Kickstarter video, and to Jacquelyn Nause and Steve Taylor for your starring roles in it. To Lee Weinstein and Elizabeth Miller, for your flair, skills, and expertise.…

From The Front Desk

Hello, and welcome to the premier issue of Kitchen Table magazine. Here in our Portland headquarters we, like you, love food. We appreciate how deeply personal the act of eating is, both individually and culturally, and how food brings us together. We’re here to tell stories about what we cook for our friends and family, and what we eat when we’re hankering for that particular hangover meal (I’m looking at you, grilled cheese sandwich and Campbell’s tomato soup). We’ll take a look at how we shop for groceries, our favorite restaurants and the people behind the scenes, where our food comes from, and why these things matter. With this venture we’ll tackle ideas around the timeless adage that you are what you eat, and we’ve recruited contributors who share that…

From The Front Desk

A TINY BELL JINGLES, as two more customers step through the doors of Oui Presse, into its modest seating area sporting stainless steel tables and chairs, and a wonderfully lofty ceiling. A warm color palette and well-balanced, uncluttered design create a dreamy sense of floating in clouds. “Oui Presse is very much a neighborhood shop,” owner Shawna McKeown tells me, while she assuredly spreads icing on a 3-layer cake, “and it’s really embraced us… my customers are warm, wonderful, and amazing people, and they’ve made this such a pleasant place to hang out.” That’s sweet. Also, I’m drooling. Oui Presse is a lovely little spot located on the SE Hawthorne Blvd in Portland. Huge windows and oceans of natural light keep the place cozy year round. A small rack stocks…

INGREDIENTS: 190g* Granulated sugar225g Unsalted butter2 eggs100g Pistachios (shelled)5ml (1 tsp) Vanilla240ml Buttermilk180ml Canola oil15ml (1 Tbsp) White vinegar350g Flour5g (1t) Salt5g (1t) Baking soda * We at Oui Presse are evangelical about weighing our ingredients, so we aren’t providing you with measuring cup equivalents. It is for your own good. You could look up the conversions on the internet, but we think doing it our way will improve your results—immeasurably! ** A note about flour: we use Shepherd’s Grain Low-Gluten Flour, but an unbleached, all-purpose (but not self-raising/rising) flour will work fine. We do not use cake or pastry flours, but those might also work. INSTRUCTIONS: 1. Using the metal blade, whiz the pistachios in a food processor until they resemble a fine nut butter. It takes a couple…

Fish sauce is a salty-fermented-umami-wonderful (umamiful?) ingredient that makes food taste better. Used traditionally in dipping sauces like nuoc cham, it can be used in everything from Caesar dressing, soups and stews, and always with grilled meat. It’s so essential to the modern kitchen, we’ve taken to giving bottles as housewarming presents, a twist on the classic gift of salt. Our favorite brand is Red Boat, made on Phu Quoc, a small island nestled between Vietnam and Cambodia. The island is famous for its black pepper, and for producing fish sauce. We’ve found bottles of Red Boat in Trader Joe’s, but they’re not yet on every grocery shelf in the country, so we asked Betsy Fox who works on team Red Boat what to look for in a good fish…

Mushroom Foraging

Embarking on a trek through the forest, somewhere along the way a wrong turn was made. That casual morning stroll has turned into a forest adventure—what a happy accident indeed. The intrepid wanderer feels a tummy rumble, but needn’t look far for a scrumptious snack; wild, edible mushrooms are abundant on the cool, misty forest floor. But beware young traveler, some are deadly, not for human hunger. There is, however, a long list of edible mushrooms in the Pacific Northwest, some of which include apricot jelly, fairy ring, bear’s head tooth, blue chanterelles, cauliflower, black morels, and lion’s mane mushrooms. Have a morsel here, a morsel there, but be sure to collect a handful for home, as they are safer, and even more delicious, cooked. The possibilities are endless with…

Mushroom Foraging

Have you ever had an innate desire to spend time in the forest? Have you ever gone for a walk among the trees to de-stress, observe your surroundings, and connect back to your breath? As explained in the National Post, this is a Japanese mindfulness practice called Shinrin-yoku. The term was developed by the Japanese Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries in 1982 and translates directly as making contact with, and taking in the atmosphere of the forest. For many, the term Shinrin-yoku is easily described as “forest bathing.” The act of forest bathing has many benefits, both physical and mental. A study published in the Journal of Environmental Health and Preventative Medicine studied the physiological benefits of Shinkrin-yoku. The results show that spending time in forest environments promotes lower…

I’m an equal-opportunity bastardizer of ethnic foods. The other day I made West African-style peppersoup with ox tails and that bush meat of the West, venison. I enriched the meaty broth with pounded dried shrimp and sticky, vermilion crab paste; sour tamarind balanced it. There was nutmeg, allspice, ginger and garlic in there, lots of chiles, and various peppercorns: grains of both paradise and Selim (aka kili pepper), Tasmanian bush pepper and black pepper. I seasoned it with Maggi cubes, and then, defying convention, I served it with ramen noodles. I ardently believe that ramen noodles improve all things, and I tend to mix cuisines and recipes fairly freely (before you @me you should try my German yakisoba). Putting goji berries and Chinese celery in Thanksgiving stuffing is a no-brainer;…

A bunch of us from the neighborhood were piled into mom’s car, on our way to the Eastgate Theater, the smallest kids crammed into the trunk of the hatchback. My two best pals and I were beside ourselves. It was May 25th, 1977, the opening day of Star Wars. I was 11 years old. I’m not sure how we knew, but we did. The action figures that we would soon be shoplifting acquiring from K-Mart had yet to come out, but we’d seen photos in Starlog magazine, and maybe that was all we needed. We just knew this would be big. (Literally and figuratively. This experience would never have had have the same impact on any 70’s era television.) Inside the sold-out theater, the fanfare and opening crawl began. Gulp……

CULTIVATING THE CUISINE OF THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

SHIPWRECKED IN THE OYSTER TRADE Cory Schreiber’s Pacific Northwest culinary journey began before he was even born. It all started with his great-great-grandfather, Meinert Wachsmuth, who left the Isle of Sylt, an island off of present-day Germany, in the 1850s to see the world. After sailing seven times around the Horn, he shipwrecked at Yaquina Bay, OR, where he discovered an abundance of oysters. “It seemed a natural fit,” Schreiber says, “to begin harvesting them. So then began the business of cultivation.” Meinert began shipping the oysters up and down the West Coast, a trade that proved lucrative during the Gold Rush of the 1860s. Eventually, Meinert, his wife, and their four sons migrated to Portland, but they didn’t leave their oyster cultivation behind. In 1907, Louis C., Meinert’s son…

CULTIVATING THE CUISINE OF THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

Bánh of America

BY THE TIME I HEARD ABOUT KALI WILGUS AND “LC” CONNELLY, WHOSE trip to Mexico and subsequent personal discovery of a hyper-regional flour tortilla became the inspiration for their pop-up breakfast burrito enterprise called Kooks, they had already been driven out of business. The undoing was bizarre: A local weekly paper ran a short review with a photo showing new restaurateurs holding burritos triumphantly towards the sky. The undoing of Kooks wasn’t the accompanying review, which was favorable, it was a boast about how Wilgus and Connelly obtained the tortilla’s recipe by asking the local women in, “The worst broken Spanish ever,” and by, “peeking into the windows of every kitchen.” Judgment came quickly and ridiculously, a digital mob formed, and the two were accused of cultural appropriation. As always,…

Bánh of America

TRAGEDIES & TRIUMPHS

SIGNS OF SPRING. 2015. Cigarette butts, junked cars, and empty bottles of cheap booze are littered about. A large boat sits drydocked, steps away from rows of crop vegetables. On the outskirts of Portland, Oregon lies an unassuming farm, partially hidden, nestled in amongst strip malls, big box stores, and a sea of single-family homes. Bucolic this is not. Kristofer Logan and his partner Alisha Kryszylowicz own and operate Old Soul Farm in East County, at 223rd and Stark in Gresham. You’d be hard-pressed to find two more upbeat and charming people. Next to the looming boat, a collection of rusted oddities adorn a small side table, like forgotten archeological acquisitions. “We’re on one acre, with forty-eight 200’ rows, which used to be just a grassy field,” Kris says. “In…

TRAGEDIES & TRIUMPHS

“I’ve wasted a lot of time trying to get every last bit of ink out of markers,” Nick Wulforst says when asked about his process. Asked about his work in general, all he sees are the imperfections. We here at Kitchen Table absolutely dig his chalkboard art, imperfections and all. Originally from Atlanta, Nick grew up making art because of his mom’s influence as an artist and art teacher. A variety of oil and acrylic paintings were littered throughout their house. “There was this one red tree painting, with a dark blue sky and yellow stars that I used to stare at all the time,” recalls Nick. In his 20s, he slowly made his way up the California Coast in a camper van. “Spending time alone traveling is important,” he…

Touching Up My Roots

It was appropriate that, when going through my recipe box the other day, I ran across my mom’s recipe for Spanish rice. Appropriate because it’s been almost exactly ten years since she passed away suddenly, ten years during which I think of her almost every day—sometimes fleetingly, sometimes with a pang when I run across a spectacular rose on my walk through the neighborhood and think, “Oh, she’d love the blush on this one!” (She had a particular thing for roses, which she grew in abundance at my parents’ home in The Dalles.) For me, food has always been a connection to her, though not in the way that most food writers speak about their Jewish or Greek or African American grandmothers passing on generations of food culture to their…

Touching Up My Roots

DAVE ADAMSHICK worked as chef, a freelance writer, marketing consultant, and content producer before joining Kitchen Table as a Senior & Contributing Editor. You can keep track of what Dave is eating, thinking about and what his dogs are up to on Instagram. @saladofnice. HEATHER ARNDT-ANDERSON is a Portland, OR-based food writer, culinary historian, and botanist. Her work has been quoted in the New York Times, the Washington Post, and the Atlantic. Heather is the author of four single-subject books of culinary history; Portland: A Food Biography, Breakfast: A History, Berries: A Global History, and Chillies: A Global History. Her first piece of food writing was published when she was nine years old; it was a poem about an orange. Voodooandsauce.com @heatherarndtanderson NICOLA ANDERSON is a photographer, writer, and yoga teacher…

KATE BLAIRSTONE In a It’s a Small World twist of fate, it turns out that Kate too worked at feature interview subject Cory Schreiber’s famed Wildwood restaurant, albeit after he’d left the business. “I had a lot of jobs at Wildwood,” Kate says. “My business card said ‘Swiss Army Knife’… I did the books, payroll, human resources, social media, design work for event fliers, public relations, you name it. The only things I didn’t do were serving and cooking. I was there for the last two-three years, when Dustin Clark was Executive Chef.” The wild-crafted Pacific Northwest ingredients on the cover are all ingredients used at Wildwood restaurant.…

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