TERIYAKI TSUNAMI

THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST TERIYAKI TWIST

CARLA CRUJIDO

TERIYAKI TWIST My quest began with a question: What’s the story behind the teriyaki+ joints (the plus sign signaling that more than just teriyaki was served) in the industrial neighborhoods of Portland? Bernie’s Hamburgers & Teriyaki; King’s Deli, Teriyaki & Subs; Airport Cafe (breakfast, lunch, espresso, teriyaki); Sub King; Mashita Teriyaki. The easy answer is cheap, fast, belly-filling food for the hungry worker, but it is the teriyaki twist that puzzles me. As I did a deep dive, I began to realize that the story of teriyaki in the Pacific North-west mirrors my grandfather’s: both originally hailed from a Pacific archipelago, both made a stop in the cane fields of Hawaii and came away sugar-soaked, both were slammed by xenophobia, and both ended up in Seattle. In my family’s teriyaki…

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Kitchen Table (Digital) - 1 Issue, Issue 6

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