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Luke Leitch Luke Leitch is an esteemed fashion journalist and critic who writes for Vogue and Vogue Business. For this issue of GQ Style, he spoke to Jonathan Anderson. “The frustrating thing about Jonathan as an interview subject is that you can tell his conversation is as carefully curated as his designs – he is very much in control of what he gives you. The flipside of that, though, is that what he does give you is fascinating. Only rarely have I interviewed a designer who possesses such a clear and overarching vision of the shape of the fashion industry and their chosen place in it, which is right at the very apex of the game.” Joel Palmer Joel Palmer is a British-born QPOC artist who specialises not only in photography contextualising themes…

WHO HAS THE POWER NOW?

MAYBE YOU FEEL IT TOO. There’s a high simmer in the background of the culture. As I write this, a half-dozen things have just gone down in the world of fashion. Harris Reed, the young designer whose superlative collections have long since dominated the British fashion zeitgeist, has been named the creative director of Nina Ricci. Maximilian Davis, on the eve of his debut collection at Ferragamo, just dropped a new logo for the brand – and also dropped the “Salvatore”. In Milan, Rhuigi Villaseñor, the globetrotting designer at the intersection of nostalgia and new luxury, is revealing his new vision for the Swiss house of Bally (dive into that on page 156). These are three of what feels like a zillion data points, all indicating the same thing: a once-in-a-generation power shift is taking…

WHO HAS THE POWER NOW?

What To Wear Now STARRING KOJEY RADICAL

Kojey Radical has brought groundbreaking realness with his soulful breed of hip-hop – and his style is just as expressive. Read about his breakout year on p.64 In an era where a heap of designers are verging on the futuristic, Dunhill’s Mark Weston is still betting on unabashed elegance – like a triple-layer of checks. A Goyard bag isn’t exactly news – the Parisian house is nearly 230 years old, after all – but there’s few prettier things you can sling around your shoulder. Big lapels, bigger colour: there’s a reason every rock star from Harry Styles to Nick Cave rocks a Gucci suit: designer Alessandro Michele has the silhouette dialled up to 11. Designed in 1927 by René Lalique and handcrafted in France from satin-finish crystal, Lalique’s iconic Bacchantes Vase is a seriously…

What To Wear Now STARRING KOJEY RADICAL

Kojey Radical’s Ego Death

◼ AFTER CASTING OFF LAYERS of coats, Kojey Radical (who was born Kwadwo Adu Genfi Amponsah) is buoyant and radiant – though a hit of that shine is coming from his newly purchased grill. He’s also keen to shed something else: the crown of “alternative rapper of 2022”. “Deep down, who really gives a fuck?” he asks, chuckling. Those monikers have always come with baggage: an attempt by the industry to nudge subversion outside of rap’s mainstream. In recent history, “alternative” has been attached to rappers from Little Simz to Loyle Carner who create soundscapes outside the neat constructs of drill, grime and Afro-fusion. For 29-year-old Radical, the term feels pointless. “At the end of the day, it’s all hip-hop,” he rationalises. “Whether it’s grime, drill, R&B, whatever, it comes from…

Kojey Radical’s Ego Death

MATERIAL DESIGN

IN A SEMI-INDUSTRIAL NEIGHBOURHOOD in Milan’s north east, Formafantasma has transformed an old warehouse into a tasteful oasis of cool. The studio’s cofounders, Simone Farresin, 41, and Andrea Trimarchi, 38, offer a welcome that’s as serene as the space they’ve created. Their Italian greyhound, Terra (meaning “earth”), roams around refined white couches and pale ash-wood tables. Since founding their design practice in 2009 in the Netherlands, these impeccably turned-out partners (in life and business) have gained adulation at the upper reaches of the design community. But after returning to their native Italy in 2021, and with a growing roster of big-brand clients including Prada, Flos, Fendi and Hermès, Formafantasma is on the cusp of making even larger strides out of the rarefied world of design and into the creative mainstream. “We wanted…

MATERIAL DESIGN

ALFIE TEMPLEMAN Earlier this year, when Bedford-born 19-year-old Alfie Templeman dropped his debut studio album Mellow Moon, we were introduced to a whole new wave of Wombats-esque indie rock – as well as Templeman’s killer mop of hair. “Since I was about 13 I’ve always grown out my hair. At first it was to hide my forehead – because people used to take the mick out of how big it was,” says Templeman. “But I genuinely just love how it looks. At the moment I’m kinda just letting it do its own thing. I don’t really brush it, I just mess around with it using my hands throughout the day. I like the wild, crazy look.” Later this year, Templeman is taking that mop around the country, embarking on his biggest…

ROLEX DAY-DATE 40 How a watch showered in sapphires – both on the bezel and the dial – can retain any air of subtlety is a trick only the Crown could pull off. And just because Rolex loves to geek out over incremental changes to its enviable stable of grails, doesn’t mean it doesn’t have fun en route. At a glance, this Day-Date is small-ish at 40 mm, but compact watches are having a moment. Just DM Drake if you don’t believe us. Day-Date 40 £87,600 Rolex GUCCI 25H TOURBILLON Amid the bombastic Alessandro Michele runway shows, it’s easy to forget that Gucci has been playing the haute horology game for half a century, with sometimes groundbreaking, always whimsical results. In this way, the Italian fashion house has quietly gone about making its watches…

◼ JOE WILKINSON AND MARIO MAHER are having a tough time answering one of my questions. The pair talk effortlessly about Heat, their London-based “mystery box” fashion venture, but an offhand question about what they do when they’re not working has them stumped. That’s because for the past three years, Wilkinson (CEO) and Maher (buying and merchandising director) have had nothing but business on the brain. Their “Heatboxes” – selections of discounted luxury fashion pieces – have been such a success that at the beginning of the year, they announced over £4 million in investment from LVMH Luxury Ventures, Antler, and Stefano Rosso of the OTB Group (which owns Marni and Jil Sander), making it one of the industry’s buzziest startups. Both born and raised in Sheffield, Wilkinson and Maher possess a…

THE INSIDE TRACK

EVERRATI PORSCHE 911 SIGNATURE While Everrati’s electrified take on this Porsche 911 964 has some petrol purists in a tizzy – get with the times, people – the customised interior is nothing short of a banger. Everrati’s team has swapped out dials to show charge levels, while ’90s-infused houndstooth inserts for the seats and door cards are a low-key nod to the upholstery made famous by classic 911s. There’s a gentle retro-refresh in there too, with a blend of vintage styling and a dash of modernity to keep it feeling 2022. Each car is bespoke, so if purple leopard print is your thing, it can be done. We don’t recommend it…but it can be done. POLESTAR 2 IKEA aside, there are plenty of other reasons why Swedish design is so universally loved. Clutter…

THE INSIDE TRACK

◼ “IN MY GAMES, I GET TO BUILD MY OWN WORLD,” explains Thomas Webb over a seven-course dinner at the restaurant in the five-star hotel he lives in. At the height of the 2020 lockdown, 15,000 people went to the 30-year-old’s exhibition, which took place within his video game, Worldwide Webb. Among the guests were the late Off-White founder Virgil Abloh and Spanish stylist Sita Abellán – the latter surprised guests with impromptu techno sets across the month-long show. ATTENDEES LOGGED IN using their Instagram accounts and milled around the multiplayer game as digital avatars. In this pixelated, 8-bit graphical world – which resembled an anime-fied Berlin – the players undertook quests that led them to “rooms” where they could admire the 12 digital artworks on display. In one of these virtual…

Head into the Alt Alps

◼ YOU COME TO THE DOLOMITES for the skiing, then realise you’ve let yourself in for something more: wild geological discovery. “It’s like a modern nature project – the Dolomites were once all coral reefs,” says Alex Schenk, an instructor and mountain guide in the region. “When the Alps grew, the Dolomites were at sea level and were pushed up, so the rock you’re skiing around was once a coral reef with a few hills on top that were islands. If you’re lucky you’ll still find stone shells or fossils.” This head-spinning explanation – that you’re skiing your way round vast rocky outcrops that were once on the seafloor – goes some way to explaining the tripped-out beauty you’ll encounter if you come skiing in this northeastern stretch of Italy. The…

Head into the Alt Alps

Travel the Sella Ronda loop Complete the most famous “ski carousel” challenge, which can be done both clockwise and anticlockwise. It’s a travelling ski day trip with no repeat runs. Get historic in Giro della Grande Guerra “It’s a bit longer than the Sella Ronda and it’s also a round trip that you can do in one day,” says Schenk. “You stay for most of the time on the World War I borders. You’re skiing in a very peaceful region where there was once war and people were dying fighting over winning two metres.” Race round Val Gardena “If I were to choose one area for skiing, it would be the Val Gardena,” says Favé. “You have Saslong, Seceda, Dantercepies – a lot of very interesting slopes.” Free-ride in the Sella Massif “This is a nice place…

Stays With landscapes this pretty, you’ll want to splurge for lodging that is just as considered.

SAN LUIS Alpine Chill THIS FAMILY-RUN HOTEL with its 42 alpine-fantasy chalets and treehouses is arranged like a fairytale village around the lake, which you can skate on when it freezes in winter. The feeling of unhurried hospitality is evident in everything here – whether it’s owner Alex Meister happily grabbing your bags and equipment from the boot of the car, the breakfast basket brought to the door of your beautiful chalet, or the warm welcome in the snug spa rooms. In typical South Tyrolean style, the food is a cheery mash-up of big, bold Austrian flavours and Italian sophistication: wood-fired breads, chunky charcuterie and super-fresh local vegetables. Tucked away on its own, 30 km north of Bolzano, it’s a place to come and disappear, rather than après-ski: the nearest slopes…

Stays With landscapes this pretty, you’ll want to splurge for lodging that is just as considered.

HAIR, ADAM GARLAND. MAKE-UP, CLAIRE URQUHART. MODEL, JUDE FURNIVALL AT WILHELMINA.…

◼ “I’ve now got five months of darkness, cold, wet and carrying hay bale after hay bale to the animals,” says Julius Roberts in his Dorset farmhouse kitchen. But whenever he has his doubts, the words of John Steinbeck get him through: “What good is the warmth of summer without the cold of winter to give it sweetness.” It’s this earnest enthusiasm for country life that gives Roberts a heap of his appeal. That and the fact he’s a floppy-haired farmer who feeds baby goats and a boyfriend-material chef who can rustle up a green bean puttanesca with ingredients plucked straight from his back garden – as his real-life girlfriend, photographer and Noel’s daughter, Anaïs Gallagher, can attest. Born and raised in West London before studying sculpture at the University of…

The Radical Liberation of Sam Smith

◼ SAM SMITH LETS OUT A GASP. In a calm, undecorated third-floor studio near the British Museum, the jewellery designer Andrew Bunney has revealed the cast of a large rose-shaped ring. The plan is for a finished version to adorn Smith’s microphone-holding hand on the next tour (and for the mic – as well as a grand piano – to be made out of black leather). “My God it’s heavy,” Smith says. The petals are perforated with nearly 500 tiny holes, each of which will be filled with a diamond, a process likely to take a week. The ring, based on the one Samantha vies for at auction in the Sex and the City movie, will be inscribed with the digits 969 – Samantha’s bidding card number. “I like jewellery…

The Radical Liberation of Sam Smith

RHUIGI HAS EARNED IT

“Life is about ‘earnership’. If you feel that you’ve worked hard, if you feel that you’ve earned it, you’re in total control.” IN A BASEMENT STUDIO in Milan, Rhuigi Villaseñor is standing in his skivvies, directing the stylist on his next choice of footwear. “I’m ready for lizard!” he calls out, and the stylist extracts a reptilian pair of tasselled white loafers from a suitcase overflowing with gear that Rhuigi has personally supplied for the shoot. I’m unsure how to introduce myself in this half-clothed moment, but he pulls on a pair of white pleated trousers to match the shoes and comes over to warmly hug me hello. “Got to come correct – this is going to be big for my family,” he says, pulling on a navy blazer that emanates yacht…

RHUIGI HAS EARNED IT

FRONT AND CENTER

A RENDEZVOUS ON A STREET CORNER with a man you’ve never met is easier when that man is Oliver Sim. The 33-year-old is simple to spot: a rangy matinée idol, immaculate in Miu Miu. Plus, since he launched his solo career off the back of the three-album, world-touring critical success of the xx, he’s stepped out of the shadows (quite literally, considering the band’s hyper-obscured aesthetics) with a series of high-camp music videos, high-fashion shoots and high-impact storytelling. We’re meeting in his childhood neighbourhood of Earl’s Court for a Queer Tour (subtitle: “A Mince Through Time”) of the area from 82-year-old Stuart Feather, an artist and former lacquer craftsman who moved here in 1960, seven years before homosexuality was made legal. I thought the ghosts of an old gay scene would…

FRONT AND CENTER

SEASONAL FLAVOURS

SEASONAL FLAVOURS

WHEN YOU’RE BEST KNOWN for lyrics like, “Big dick will get me wet/Drippin’ through my panties”, it’s only natural to start deep in conversation about sexual freedom. Rapper, singer, songwriter, DJ and record label coowner Shygirl (who privately goes by the name Blane Muise) is mindful of the disempowering nature of not speaking freely: “Shame really held me back,” says the 29-year-old, as we sit drinking tall glasses of pressed juice in Shoreditch House. “So I’m always hoping to eradicate that.” After all, the name “Shygirl” was never really about “shyness” so much as an unwillingness to bother herself with small talk. Dressed in simple black athleisure (“I dress pretty casual most of the time”) with her long wavy hair flowing over her shoulders, she’s readily talking about sex, punctuating it…

“YOU NEED TO BECOME PART OF THE FASHION SYSTEM WITHOUT BECOMING TRENDY.” TO ACHIEVE LONGEVITY AS A SUCCESSFUL FASHION DESIGNER YOU MUST B ABLE TO RUN A MARATHON OF CREATIVE SPRINTS. “FASHION IS ALL ABOUT HARD WORK. You can have all the talent in the world, but if you are not willing to commit to that marathon, then it will not work,” he says. “And another thing is that you cannot go into fashion as a fame game. As my dad always reminds me, fashion is a rag trade.” We’re chatting in the Islington-fringes HQ of Anderson’s eponymous company and there’s no time to squander: the founder and creative director of JW Anderson since 2008 (and Loewe since 2013), the Derryborn wunderkind oversees some 16 collections a year. If you don’t already know that…

Artist to the Stars

◼ A YOUNG BOY FROM the Bahamas used to stargaze from the fishermen’s boats he worked on at night. “The sky is for everyone,” he used to think as he bobbed along on the Atlantic Ocean. Two decades later, the same kid – now 42-year-old Tavares Strachan, an artist of mind-defying projects and ambitious exhibitions – was preparing to take off from Earth in a cosmonaut training programme in Russia. The sky seemed closer; even more available. “There is a certain infatuation one needs to have with fear,” Strachan says about his first time in a spacecraft in 2008 after numerous test runs with simulations. “The thing you’re most afraid of, at one point, you’re compelled to face.” Strachan knew he had to embrace that fear for his younger self. “Stars…

Artist to the Stars

OLD SCHOOL, NEW SCHOOL

RANDA KHERBA (RIGHT, WITH ALEX SOSSAH, METALLIC INC COFOUNDER) 27, LONDON, UK “Alex originally had the idea of wanting to start some sort of fashion design programme for Black people and people of colour. And once they started Metallic Fund back in 2020, I started working on it. It was an opportunity to create the dream programme that I would have loved. I was like, ‘What would I want out of a design programme? What would I need out of a design programme? How can I fit in as much information in a way that we can all absorb?’ We brought in mentors from every aspect of the industry once a week. In an hour you learn more than you do in your whole degree. The blessing of this programme was…

OLD SCHOOL, NEW SCHOOL

Reception House Bathroom Mira Nakashima LOCATION: New Hope, Pennsylvania, U.S. Who designed this room and what was the concept? My father, George Nakashima, designed the room to feature a Japanese sunken bathtub heated by a wood-burning boiler imported from Japan. He knew it was going to be his last building on the property and wanted to make it the culmination of his architectural and aesthetic ideals. Since in 1975 he was acutely aware that human beings should reduce their consumption of fossil fuels, he went to the trouble of finding, importing, and installing the wood-burning boiler. What materials were used, and how was it constructed? The shell was poured of reinforced concrete and coated with Japanese penny-round tiles in colours that Nakashima himself selected. He invited my brother and my four children to write their names…

The Global Style Directory

Saul Nash FASHION DE SIGNER North Londoner Saul Nash is at the vanguard of contemporary British menswear and earlier this year was announced as the winner of the 2022 International Woolmark Prize. KAIETEUR KITCHEN LONDON, UK “This is a special place in Elephant and Castle and one of the few Guyanese restaurants in London. It’s owned by Faye Gomes. I first discovered it when I used to travel to that side of London for dance lessons. It started as a street-food truck and now has a permanent location in Castle Square. The food takes me back to special times when I was a kid – my family would get together for parties and we’d enjoy massive spreads of Guyanese food. It reminds me of my grandmother. I go there a lot to get…

The Global Style Directory

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