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29 Articles

’tis the SEASON...

I WAS 11 WHEN I BAKED MY FIRST BATCH OF chocolate brownies. The recipe was “Brownies Cockaigne,” from my mother’s copy of The Joy of Cooking. I painstakingly worked my way through the instructions and was amazed when the resulting brownies were exactly as described. Baking that first batch was about more than just brownies—it was a connection to my mom. She had just passed away from breast cancer, and her book had quickly become one of my favourite possessions. Over the years, that Brownies Cockaigne recipe taught me how to bake. There is genius at work in the simple five-step recipe. It says chocolate should be melted in a double-boiler, and that the melted chocolate should be cooled before being used or the “brownies will be heavy and dry.”…

’tis the SEASON...

Erin’s Favourite Brown-Butter Cream Cheese Carrot Cake

EDITOR’S PICK THERE ARE TWO KINDS of people in the world: those who like carrot cake and those who don’t like carrot cake. And then there’s me. I don’t just like carrot cake—I love it. Years ago, I was in the Eastern Townships for a photo shoot and stopped for lunch at a tiny café. I remember looking at the chalkboard menu and seeing “The World’s Best Carrot Cake” listed. I thought to myself, “I should order a piece and see.” Thus began my mission to find the World’s Best Carrot Cake. Some cakes have come pretty darn close, but that je ne sais quoi has always been missing. It’s for this reason I asked ELLE Gourmet’s consulting food director, Soo Kim, one of the best recipe developers (and bakers!)…

Erin’s Favourite Brown-Butter Cream Cheese Carrot Cake

BALANCING ACT Suitable for hot and cold drinks alike, these Nude Ahoy glasses are stackable, have a unique non-slip silicone coating and are made from tempered lead-free crystal. Available in sets of four. nudeglass.com SMOOTHIE TIME If we’re going to let an appliance take up counter space, it needs to be both functional and aesthetically pleasing. That’s exactly what you get with the Instagram-fave Beast B10 Health Blender. The sleek, compact device was created by the founder of the NutriBullet and enables you to seamlessly crush ice, blend drinks and make small servings of soups, sauces and salad dressings. Oh, and the blender is Oprah-approved too—nbd. crateandbarrel.ca Raise a Glass Now you really can rosé all day, thanks to Silver Swallow’s Luxury Kombucha Rosé. The Ottawa-based brand uses Japanese kamairicha…

Pastry Provocateur

PIERRE HERMÉ IS KNOWN IN CONFECTIONERY circles as the “Picasso of Pastry,” and it’s a fitting title. Like the artist, Hermé is an interdisciplinary creative who paints and sculpts in a style that can only be described as his own. His chosen art forms? Pastry, chocolate—and now, coffee. Coffee is a drink characterized (and judged) by its complex flavour profiles, so developing a coffee collection for the most discerning of palates is an undertaking well-suited to Hermé’s skill set. In his new collaboration with Nespresso, Hermé’s touch is evident on everything from the jewel-like product packaging to the Infiniment Espresso, an exquisite black single-origin coffee from Colombia that defines the collection with its impressive depth of flavour. There are also two flavoured coffees: the delicate and aromatic Infiniment Gourmand Saveur…

Pastry Provocateur

Change of Course

AS DIFFICULT AS THE PANDEMIC has been for the food-and-drink industry, there has been impressive innovation over the past few years as chefs, bakers and makers have figured out how to test new products and concepts. In January 2021, the Ontario provincial government relaxed regulations around home-based food businesses, making it easier for people to sell “low-risk” items (like certain breads, baked goods and preserves) and open pop-up locations. Canadian Restaurant & Foodservice Newspredicts we’ll be seeing a lot more pop-ups, with just as many committing to bricks-and-mortar locations. For some, these pop-ups were an extension of existing businesses, created to host people in an outdoor space; for others, it was an opportunity to launch something brand new from their home kitchens. But they soon became much more. Many “temporary”…

Change of Course

IN THE FIRST PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN she ever worked in, chef and entrepreneur Suzanne Barr was told by her boss that she would never make it in the industry because she hadn’t “honoured the work.” The experience left a mark. “It took me a long time to acknowledge that I’m a chef and an even longer time to recognize that I’m also an artist and an advocate,” she says. Today, Barr is doing more than honouring the work. Whether she’s eschewing the traditional kitchen hierarchy in favour of a fairer system or imagining ways to build a brighter future for the industry through storytelling and activism, she’s ensuring that everyone is appreciated for what they bring to the table. It’s precisely this multifaceted perspective that has propelled Toronto-born Barr upward in…

FOR SWEET OBSESSIVES Calling all people whose most asked question is “What’s for dessert?” This one’s for you. Claire Saffitz, YouTube personality and bestselling author of Dessert Person, is back with a new cookbook, which uses the perennial question as its title. In it, you’ll find 100 easy-to-follow recipes for treats—from molten-lava cakes to caramel peanut popcorn bars—that you’ll be happy to reach for after dinner anytime. November 8 FOR FINDING JOY When you have to eat three meals every day, cooking them can feel like a chore. That’s why acclaimed teacher and author Bonnie Stern teamed up with her daughter, Anna Rupert, to create Don’t Worry, Just Cook. Find 125 timeless recipes designed to foster comfort and connection (think jewelled roasted salmon and roasted cauliflower steaks) alongside clever tips…

Spanish Pepper Salad This no-cook meal, featuring a classic vinaigrette, chopped hard-cooked eggs (you can buy them already cooked at most grocers!), anchovies and piquillo peppers (thin-fleshed, fire-roasted Spanish red peppers sold in jars and cans), is totally company-ready. Recipe by Christopher St.Onge Photography by Rob Fiocca 4 Servings Ingredients ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil (see tip)3 tbsp sherry vinegar1 small shallot, finely chopped1 tsp finely grated or chopped garlic¼ tsp each salt and freshly ground black pepperpinch granulated sugar2 300–325 mL jars piquillo peppers, drained16 oil-packed anchovy fillets, drained3 hard-cooked eggs, peeled¼ cup chopped parsley6 slices sourdough, toasted and halved Method 1. In small bowl, whisk together olive oil, vinegar, shallot, garlic, salt, pepper and sugar. 2. Halve peppers lengthwise; arrange and lay flat in single layer on large…

Foraging a Future

PRO FORAGER, CHEF AND AWARD-WINNING cookbook author Lori McCarthy was born in Bauline, N.L., in 1977, which means that, growing up, she and her peers were often told that in order to thrive, they’d have to leave their home. “I remember thinking, ‘No matter what, that will not be the story I tell my children,’” she says. For more than a decade now, McCarthy has been busy rewriting that tired narrative, dedicating her professional career to preserving Newfoundland’s cultural heritage, natural resources and traditional foodways (which are heavily rooted in game hunting, fishing and foraging) for future generations. With its vast barren lands, lush boreal forests and rocky Arctic tundra, the terrain of Newfoundland is, without question, like no other. But for the island’s inhabitants, the breathtaking but rugged nature…

Foraging a Future

Chicken With Cherry Tomatoes and Prunes Consider your next special-occasion dinner planned with this riff on the classic French trinity of chicken, prunes and shallots—with a twist courtesy of California Prunes. Ingredients 6 Servings 6–8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs6–8 red potatoes, scrubbed1 rib celery2 red onions2 zucchini, cut into cubes2 cloves garlic, chopped ¾ tsp kosher salt½ tsp freshly ground pepper½ tsp cayenne pepper15 California Prunes, pitted1⅓ cups cherry tomatoes, halved¼ cup olive oil1 bunch cilantro, roots trimmed olive oil, for drizzling Method 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Cut chicken into large pieces; place in large baking dish or roasting pan. Cut potatoes and celery into quarters, and cut onions into thick wedges with root attached. Add to chicken dish with zucchini and garlic. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and…

Popping Bubbles

FROM NOVA SCOTIA TO B.C., Canadian fizz runs the gamut of budgets and styles. Many of these sparkling wines are complex and majestic, on a par with Europe’s finest; others are more relaxed, perfect for an everyday aperitif and delightfully versatile with food. It’s no longer unusual for Canada to compete on the world stage with its own dazzling array of superior sparklers. But why is top-quality sparkling wine bubbling up across the country now? It’s all thanks to a happy alignment of three necessary conditions: our climate, our increasing expertise and, above all, our new-found love of sparkle. Sales of bubbly in Canada are expected to grow by almost 15 percent a year between now and 2025, with five times as many corks being popped at home as in…

Popping Bubbles

California, Here We Come

1. Josh Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, from $19 With grapes from Mendocino, Napa and Sonoma, this ruby-red Cabernet Sauvignon from Josh Cellars, a.k.a. Wine Enthusiast’s American Winery of the Year, entices with fragrant notes of ripe plum, flowers, jam, baking spices and candied fruit. Its rich, round and velvety palate pairs perfectly with a steak dinner or even a casual burger. 2. Robert Mondavi Private Selection Bourbon Barrel Cabernet Sauvignon, from $19 This alluring blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Malbec—a result of both California-winemaking expertise and southern-style bourbon-whisky craftsmanship—is aged in Americanoak barrels for 10 months. The result is a deep, lush and toasty wine that evokes blackberry cobbler, blueberry pie, praline, coffee, brown sugar, smoke and more. 3. La Crema Pinot Noir, from $35 It’s a combination of…

California, Here We Come

Mixology Corner

The Dirty Beet A dirty martini but with cool-weather vibes. Akvavit stands in for the usual vermouth here and brings the flavour of caraway to the party. A little pickled-beet juice gives things a savoury edge, just like the olive brine in a dirty martini. Be sure to stir for the full 30 seconds—the ice melt opens up all the flavours. 1 Serving Ingredients ice2 oz gin or vodka½ oz akvavit½ oz pickled-beet brine (from a jar of pickled beets)1 piece pickled beet, to garnish Method 1. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice, and add gin or vodka, akvavit and pickled-beet brine. Stir for 30 seconds to open up the flavours; strain into a coupe or cocktail glass. Garnish with a piece of pickled beet. BRINE FROM THE DIRTY MARTINI…

Mixology Corner

The Spirit of Bourbon

“YOU CAN’T RUSH BOURBON,” says Limestone Branch Distillery’s Stephen Beam, a seventh-generation master distiller from a prestigious line of bourbon-makers in Kentucky. “It has taught me to slow down. Sipping it with friends and letting chaos pass by is one of life’s simple pleasures.” Bourbon is big business. How does Limestone Branch Distillery take a truly artisanal approach? “I wanted to make bourbon to make my ancestors proud. I do this by respecting their methods and traditions. For me, making bourbon is a very emotional and tactile experience. I never tire of the smell of cooking mash. It is big business, and it swirls around me like a storm. I just move along, making my bourbon in the calm eye of the storm.” How has science allowed you to create…

The Spirit of Bourbon

Around the World with Lauren Mote

DO YOU REMEMBER WHERE YOUwere during that frosty polar vortex a few years ago? Lauren Mote can picture it exactly. It was January, and the Toronto-raised bartender was in Winnipeg, where temperatures felt like a cool -52°C. Still, not wanting to stay in for the night, she put on three layers of winter-appropriate clothing and stepped outside. In the few steps it took to get to her waiting taxi, her nostrils froze and the cold penetrated through her layers as if she weren’t even wearing them. On her way to a local bar, she wondered how people cope in such weather. Would anyone even be there? Of course, when she arrived, she found the bar full of people drinking not just cocktails but iced cocktails. The heat was blasting, the…

Around the World with Lauren Mote

Midnight approaches in the vineyard. The January air is crisp and clear, a bracing -10°C. Conditions are ideal for the Icewine harvest. Teams dressed in layer upon layer of thermals work through the wee hours, picking grapes that have frozen on the vine. The mechanized harvester whirs into motion with a beating sound. Then, fighting time and temperature, the pressing of the frozen fruit begins. “The thing I love most about making Icewine is knowing something so beautifully elegant can come from such harsh conditions,” says winemaker Roberto DiDomenico, who joined Reif Estate Winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ont., 33 years ago and just won gold at this year’s International Wine Challenge in London, England, for the brand’s Grand Reserve Vidal Icewine. The Niagara region’s proximity to the climate-moderating Great Lakes and…

CHOCOLATE DREAMS

Torta Tenerina Torta tenerina is a flourless chocolate cake that’s basically the Italian version of a brownie. Enjoy it plain with a dusting of powdered sugar or serve with whipped cream or mascarpone. 12 Servings Ingredients 227 g dark chocolate, finely chopped (8 squares Baker’s Dark Chocolate)½ cup unsalted butter, cubed4 eggs, at room temperature, separated¾ cup granulated sugar, divided3 tbsp cornstarch, sifted½ tsp kosher salt icing sugar (optional) Method 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease 9-inch springform pan; line bottom and sides with parchment paper. Set aside. 2. In heatproof bowl set over saucepan of simmering (not boiling) water, melt chocolate. Stir in butter and remove from heat. Let cool slightly. 3. In bowl of stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment, beat egg yolks and half of the sugar…

CHOCOLATE DREAMS

Baked Eggplant Few things are more disappointing in the kitchen than poorly baked eggplant. Avoid that issue by cutting the veg lengthwise into ¼-inch-thick slices, brushing them with oil and popping them into the oven for a golden-brown finish on each side. Take things up a notch by arranging the baked slices in a roasting pan with marinara sauce as a “cannelloni” and serve with a leafy salad for a really beautiful meal. 2 Servings Ingredients 2 eggplants, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices lengthwise Marinara 950 mL canned crushed tomatoes4 tbsp tomato paste4 cloves garlic, crushed2 tsp dried oregano2 tsp dried basil2 tsp dried thyme2 tsp flaked sea salt2 tsp coconut sugar¾ tsp ground cardamom½ tsp black pepper½ tsp cayenne Spiced Oil 4 tbsp avocado oil1 tsp paprika1 tsp dried oregano1…

Porterhouse Steak With Anchovy-Parsley Butter Fries Porterhouse is the loin cut of beef—think T-bone but bigger and more fun to share. 6 Servings Ingredients 1 kg waxy potatoes, peeled and cut into strips2 L sunflower oil, for frying1 kg porterhouse steak, at room temperature sea salt, for seasoningsplash olive oil¼ cup butter2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushedpepper, for seasoning Anchovy-Parsley Butter 7 tbsp butter6 anchovies⅓ cup finely chopped parsley Method 1. Pat dry potato strips. In Dutch oven, heat sunflower oil over medium-low heat until deep-fryer thermometer reads 265°F. Deep-fry half of the potatoes for about 10 minutes or until cooked but not brown. Remove from pan with slotted spoon and set on paper-towel-lined tray. Repeat with remaining potatoes. 2. Anchovy-Parsley Butter: In saucepan, heat butter over medium heat until…

TOP OF THE CROP

Lockwood Farms COWICHAN VALLEY, B.C. When Cammy and James Lockwood sold $64 worth of lettuce at a farmers’ market in 2011, they couldn’t have imagined that they’d be running a solar-powered family farm a decade later. Using traditional tools like spades and wheel hoes, they’re able to grow a wide variety of high-quality vegetables on a small plot of land. Their mission is simple: grow produce and farm eggs in a sustainable and ethical way. lockwoodfarms.ca Cookstown Greens THORNTON, ONT. When Mike and Vicky Ffrench got married in 2016, they gave their guests burlap-wrapped jars of homemade pickled beets labelled “Our Love Beets On.” Now, they still grow their own beets at Cookstown Greens. When it was established in 1988 as an artisan farm, the focus was on growing delicate…

TOP
OF
THE
CROP

Roasted Pork Loin & Smoky Cabbage It’s hard to beat the smell of pork roasting away in the oven. Ask your butcher for a skinless roast with the fat cap left on. Plan ahead—you’ll need to get the seasoned roast in the fridge at least a day in advance. 6 to 8 Servings Ingredients 4 tsp kosher salt, divided¾ tsp freshly ground pepper, divided1 tbsp chopped thyme2 tsp packed brown sugarboneless pork loin roast, tied (about 2 kg)5 ¼-inch-thick slices slab bacon1 onion, thinly sliced1 red cabbage, cored and thinly sliced (about 2 kg)1 cup apple cider½ cup 18% cream2 tsp pickled mustard seeds Method 1. In small bowl, combine 2½ tsp of the salt, ½ tsp of the pepper, thyme and brown sugar. Spread ⅔ of mixture over fat…

IT’S 6:30 A.M. AT CIVANA WELLNESS RESORT & SPA in Carefree, Ariz., and my sister, Lindsay Veling, is on the hunt for coffee. I’m waiting at the fitness centre with 10 other resort guests. We’ve all signed up for a guided two-hour hike through the Spur Cross Ranch Conservation Area, which spans 2,000 acres of desert and saguaro cacti. I’m feeling thankful that jet lag is (for once) on my side—a sunrise hike in the state is a “mid-morning” hike for two sisters who’ve just arrived from Toronto. As our guide finishes checking off the names on his list, Lindsay rushes through the door, a green smoothie and an oat-milk latte in hand. Lindsay and I have travelled to Carefree to experience the uniquely spectacular scenery of the Sonoran Desert…

Copenhagen Gus Stieffenhofer-Brandson Executive chef at Published on Main (Vancouver) The destination: Copenhagen, Denmark Why go: Before he headed up the kitchen in the number one restaurant on Canada’s 100 Best list, chef Gus Stieffenhofer-Brandson spent a summer in Copenhagen, cycling around the city, jumping in the Erdkehlgraven canal and interning at Noma—a world-famous three-Michelin-starred restaurant that was a pioneer in the now-hopping Danish dining scene. “Copenhagen is one of the most rad restaurant cities right now,” he says. To explore it all in true European fashion, stop at a Bycyklen docking station and pick up one of the city’s electric GPS-equipped bicycles. Where to eat: The original Noma space on the waterfront is now occupied by Barr, which is more casual, but “the execution is incredible,” says Stieffenhofer-Brandson, who…

TILE STYLE The rich, decorative nature of wood meets the practicality of easy-to-care-for porcelain in Ricordi, a genius new collection of floor tiles from Ceramica Sant’Agostino. The trompe l’oeil parquet design of the wood-effect porcelain channels old-world character yet still feels contemporary. The panels are offered in three patterns and two colour variations. ceramicasantagostino.it In Hot Water Industrial style meets modernism in DXV’s latest kitchen collection. The new Etre Pull Down Kitchen Faucet is a study in contrasts: a sleek matte-black finish is juxtaposed with intricate knurling detail on the brass tip. This tactile texture makes it easy to pull down the faucet when your hands are soapy from cleaning up after dinner. dxv.com On the Grid Transform your kitchen with Fisher & Paykel’s three new 30-inch Professional Companion Appliances,…

A Perfect Pairing

Sprinkles Cupcakes’ Candace Nelson knows the power of chocolate and espresso—and the importance of kitchen appliances that will let you achieve culinary perfection. That’s why when it came time for the Indonesian-born, L.A.-based pastry chef behind what is thought to be the world’s first cupcake bakery to design her dream kitchen, she knew it would have to be an oasis where she could whip up as many chocolate-forward espresso treats as she wanted. The space, of course, had to look beautiful and, even more importantly, it had to be stocked with appliances she could count on to deliver exceptional meals every single time. After all, she’d be using it as a test kitchen for new recipes, as a hub for entertaining and as a place where she could spend time…

A Perfect Pairing

IT’S A SUNNY SATURDAY AFTERNOONin Quebec’s Lower Westmount, an enclave of Montreal. Mandy Wolfe is at the home of her sister, Rebecca Wolfe, and they’re making their namesake salad, The Wolfe (which, by the way, is more than just the scrumptious sum of its crisp carrot, creamy avocado and peppery arugula parts). It’s an inside peek at the incredible bond that led this entrepreneurial duo to found Mandy’s, the runaway-success salad business that launched at the back of a Montreal women’s clothing store in 2004 and now boasts eight locations in the city, as well as one on Toronto’s Ossington strip. “We really inspire each other,” says Mandy, who is the chef behind the bowls, while Rebecca designs the brand’s gloriously vibrant and prettily patterned eateries. “Becca makes everyone feel…

THE SHAKERISH SIMPLICITY and pared-down aesthetic of this kitchen offer such a deep seam of design inspiration that you might not guess what really goes on here: epic family feasts of the comfort-food kind—think heaving platters of rigatoni al sugo di pomodoroand rib-sticking layers of parmigiana di melanzane. The Montreal-area home’s owners, François-Karl Viau and Sabrina Rubino, who are parents to 19-month-old Sophia and four-month-old Leonardo, wouldn’t have it any other way. He is the president of Fraîchement Bon grocery stores, she is the vice-president of Rubino Shoes and both are passionate about food and family. In fact, their 223-square-metre Laval retreat is part of a compound of three family homes along the Rivière des Mille-Îles. (Rubino’s parents and brothers own the other two.) Montreal architects Olivier Blouin and Marie-Josée…

ELLE Gourmet loves

SECOND HELPINGS If there are two things the world needs more of, it’s sustainable thinking and women-led businesses. That’s exactly why we can’t get enough of Livermore, California’s Wente Family Estates, winner of the 2022 Green Medal Leader Award (an honour that recognizes vineyards excelling in environmentally sound, socially equitable and economically viable practices). As the oldest continuously operating vineyard in the U.S., Wente has been focused on its eco-friendly mission for five generations—way before it was ever the “cool” thing to do. Women have also had a crucial seat at the Wente table for decades, and today the brand is being shaped by formidable women like senior vineyard and viticulture manager Niki Wente, who oversees the estate’s 3,000 acres while upholding sustainable values; vice-president of marketing and customer experience…

ELLE Gourmet loves

How to Make a Crispy Fried Egg Back in Black It all starts with the right pan. We like a 9- or 10-inch cast-iron or non-stick skillet—something roomy enough to accomodate 2 eggs because hunger loves company. Cast iron also has a non-stick patina that develops over time (see page 35 for more), so the eggs will slide right off when done. Good Fat Opt for vegetable, olive or extra-virgin olive oil for full-flavoured eggs. You‘ll need at least 2—if not 3— tbsp of your chosen oil for 2 eggs. That‘s enough to fry and baste the egg whites, speed up the cooking and achieve that covetable crispy edge. Take It Easy Begin by heating oil over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Break eggs into the pan, 1 at a…

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