Stephansplatz is at the centre of Vienna both geographically and practically you will pass through it because of the U-Bahn intersection while many shopping streets also lead to the large square. Other than the Gothic facade of the Cathedral, from which the square takes its name, it's less a place of sights and more for people watching, but that's a great reason to visit - you can get your bearings, take a breath and order your priorities. Vienna is blessed with dozens of world-class galleries and museums, so you'll need to make decisions on where to visit first. Head down to the U-Bahn Stephansplatz and take the U3 two stops to Volkstheater station for your first cultural stop.
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2 LEOPOLD MUSEUM
The Leopold is home to a huge 8,300-piece collection of Austrian art including works by Gustav Klimt, Oskar Kokoschka and the world's largest (220-piece) Egon Schiele collection. The museum is named after Rudolf and Elisabeth Leopold, who created the collection over five decades, and has stunning permanent exhibits as well as temporary exhibitions. From the end of October, the focus is on the lesser-known Rudolf Wacker (1893-1939), one of the most eminent exponents of New Objectivity in Austria. There's a great cafe on the top floor, Cafe Leopold, serving Asian cuisine along with local classics from regional suppliers. The museum is open daily from 10am until 6pm.
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3 CAFE MUSEUM
If you were too busy ogling masterpieces to grab a slice of cake, don't worry, there are dozens of historic Viennese cafes to choose from, including Cafe Sacher Wien (home of the Sachertorte cake), Cafe Frauenhuber (dating from 1824), Cafe Landtmann (where Mahler and Freud visited), Cafe Central (famous for chess, Trotsky and Freud, again), Cafe Mozart, Cafe Sperl or Jelinek. The one you choose may depend on the time of day and the length of queue (all of these are most definitely on the tourist trail). A ten-minute walk from the Leopold is Cafe Museum, which had Klimt and Schiele as regulars. It was designed by Adolf Loos in 1899, the architect responsible for several high-end shops (including the menswear store Knize on Graben 13 - well worth a visit, lovely ties as well as Loos Haus on Michaelerplatz and the MANZ storefront on Kohlmarkt). The interior of the cafe has undergone many changes since it opened and now has red velvet banquette seating, globe-like chandeliers and a vaulted ceiling with understated tables, plus an excellent choice for lunch or cakes. Try a Kaiserschmarren, a lightly sweetened pancake that takes its name from Austrian emperor Franz Joseph I. You could also have a full meal, with wonderful schnitzel - as you'd expect. Open daily from 8am-9pm.
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