For a place whose name conjures images of bustling streets flanked by jutting skyscrapers, Hong Kong offers surprising opportunities for a lover of the outdoors. That starts with the ease of access. Much of the countryside is cheek by jowl with city blocks and the public transport system is extensive and cheap. The MTR (the city's underground and overground rail network) is clean and highly efficient, while ferries provide links to the outlying islands. On the roads, surprisingly cheap taxis transport you to most trailheads not already served by buses or minibuses.
All of these transport services, apart from taxis, accept the Octopus stored value card, which also works in many shops - so make this one of your first purchases on arrival in Hong Kong. Other essentials for outdoor adventures are a wide-brimmed hat to protect against the often-fierce sun and plenty of fluids. Armed with these, you are ready to explore the hills, forests and beaches of Hong Kong.
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Scaling new heights
It's not hard to see why the Dragon's Back in the eastern part of Hong Kong Island is widely rated the city's best day hike, being very manageable and only a few kilometres long, yet delivering spectacular views.
From the To Tei Wan bus stop on the Shek O Road, the trail starts with the relatively short climb up to a path that winds atop the "dragon's back". Here the vegetation on the ridge is stunted by prevailing winds to form a living tunnel of greenery in places. Elsewhere, viewpoints give wide vistas which draw the eye out west over the south coast of Hong Kong Island and to the east, over the hillside that drops away to the beach villages of Shek O and Tai Long Wan (Big Wave Bay).
Many finish by hiking down off the ridge to the latter, one of Hong Kong's most famous surf spots, perhaps also riding a bus or minibus further on to Shek O to enjoy its sleepy vibe at one of a number of relaxed restaurants that make for a fitting end to the day.
The Buddha under the mountain
Lantau Island, in the west of Hong Kong, is a vital green lung for the entire region and home to a network of trails that are among the best in Hong Kong for their challenge and sense of remoteness. Just a few kilometres inland of the airport is Lantau Peak, the territory's second-highest mountain at 934 metres.
With the Insta-friendly Sunset Peak next door and in the company of several other high summits, it is an enticing prospect for keen hikers. The most energetic can start their climb from the coast, but many choose to begin from the saddle at Pak Kung Au on the road that traverses the island from north to south. Getting off the bus there leaves around 600 metres to climb up rocky steps alternating with flatter sections, until a final scramble leads to a summit with all-round views. On a fine day, Macau and the mainland city of Shenzhen are visible, while below, on the Ngong Ping plateau, sits a giant contemplative bronze statue - the 34 metre-tall Big Buddha. While often busy with tourists, the monastery and the Buddha are very much worth a look, while refreshments at Ngong Ping range from vegetarian Buddhist snacks to Starbucks.
Physically and spiritually nourished, you can then head home via bus or, queues permitting, the spectacular Ngong Ping 360 cable car (HK$195/US$25 one way or an additional HK$40/US$5 for a glass-bottomed Crystal cabin).
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Crouching lion, hilly dragon
For many visitors, one must-do "hike" is a circuit of The Peak on Hong Kong Island but, while the views are undeniably great, it is touristy in the extreme. An arguably more interesting and meaningful alternative is Lion Rock (495 metres) - one of the hi...