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34 Articles

EDITOR’S LETTER

I always say that I have music to thank for my love of fashion. As a kid, I gravitated towards musicians with exceptional personal style: Neneh Cherry, Björk, Sade and the like. Then, as soon as I was old enough (well, almost) to go out clubbing, getting dressed up for the love of music became the thing. I remember precisely what I wore, aged 14 or 15, to blag my way into my first jungle rave at the Hippodrome in London’s Leicester Square. The ’fit – a crisp white logo’d D&G vest (my entry into the world of designer clothing and the most prized possession in my wardrobe at the time), a black nylon cargo miniskirt from Topshop (the closest I could get to the Prada Sport original), over-the-knee ribbed…

EDITOR’S LETTER

Tracey Emin As a selection of Vivienne Westwood’s personal clothes go to auction, artist Tracey Emin models a selection, and reflects on her friend’s legacy, on page 156. “All of the campaigns we did were so much fun,” says Emin, of collaborating with the designer. “Now it’s common practice to make everything very handmade and rough, but I think we were ahead of time.” NATIONAL ANTHEMS “The first thing I do is look at what the artists actually wear day-to-day,” says global contributing fashion editor Kate Phelan of her starting point while styling this month’s British music extravaganza. Starring phenomenon Central Cee – shot alongside model Mona Tougaard, by Alasdair McLellan – and followed by a portfolio of some of the nation’s most exciting musical talents, photographed by Adama Jalloh, Phelan “wanted everyone…

Boho chic is back!” came the cry when Chemena Kamali unveiled her debut Chloé show in Paris in March, which harked back to both Karl Lagerfeld’s designs for the French house during the 1970s and Phoebe Philo’s helm during the early 2000s. “Is it time to get out my Paddington?” social media commentators asked, in reference to the popular handbag championed by the likes of Kate Bosworth and Nicole Richie. It may well be. If you needed any more evidence of the cyclical nature of fashion, look no further. Sadly, I don’t have a Paddington stashed at the back of my wardrobe, but I did have a similar experience with a monogrammed Dior Columbus bag that I recently inherited from my mother. During an outing at Paris Fashion Week, one super-chic…

It feels like the Chloé that I first fell in love with,” Sienna Miller said, before taking her front-row seat at the house’s a/w ’24 show. The actor’s pre-fall look offered a clue to creative director Chemena Kamali’s inaugural runway collection, comprising a hardy leather jacket, collar splayed (the perfect backdrop for Miller’s golden tresses), lace-trim handkerchief skirt and – the investment of the moment – towering wedge heels, haphazardly inscribed like the padlocks that adorn Paris’s Pont des Arts bridge. Kamali’s vision is a triumphant revival of early Noughties boho chic, which marks, in Miller’s words, “a throwback to a time that was joyful and creative”, with the Chloé wedge signalling fashion’s new hippified attitude. Wear them as the best-dressed wedding guest, stow them in your Glastonbury backpack, plead that…

In July 2017, I wrote an article about toplessness for Vogue Italia. The director, actor and political activist Lina Esco had emerged from the world of showbusiness to question public nudity laws in the United States with 2014’s Free the Nipple. Her film took on a life of its own and, thanks to the endorsement from the likes of Miley Cyrus, Cara Delevingne and Willow Smith, eventually developed into a whole political movement, particularly on social media where the hashtag #FreeTheNipple spread at lightning speed. The same year as that piece, actor Alyssa Milano tweeted “me too” and encouraged others who had been sexually assaulted to do the same, building on the movement activist Tarana Burke had created more than a decade earlier. The rest is history. In that Vogue article,…

I quite enjoy being in front of the camera,” says Jack Draper, 22, fresh from his British Vogue shoot. “If I’m looking good, that is.” The Surrey-born rising tennis star – who also happens to be a 6ft 4in IMG model – has no worries on that front, being as at home in a chic Stefan Cooke knit as his tennis whites. Nor is he afraid to change up his look: “I’ve done a buzzcut, mohawk, mullet…” Haircuts aside, Draper says he’s “quite low maintenance” – and no wonder, given his schedule. Just back from competing in Madrid, when we speak he’s en route to Rome ahead of the Italian Open. In fact, tennis runs in his blood: his mother Nicky is a junior champion turned coach; his father Roger was…

The first time I was scouted was in London’s Piccadilly Circus, outside the Trocadero Centre. It was 1996 and I was 17 years old and working at SegaWorld – an interactive theme park that’s biggest claim to fame was that it had the largest above-ground escalator in Europe. A student from Saint Martins asked if I would model in his fashion show (years later, he would tell me that as he watched me walking away, looking like a geezer who’d just won 20 quid at the bookies, he thought he’d made a huge mistake). I did the show and signed with Select, who then cut my hair into a very fashionable “reverse mullet” style, which looked absolutely mental. So I shaved it off – and was swiftly dropped. The second…

HONEY DIJON “It’s a cocoon of creation,” musician and muse Honey Dijon says of her “laboratory” – a mixed-media archive of more than 20,000 magazines, rare books, records and 1980s New York new wave club memorabilia, housed in a temperature-controlled space a stone’s throw from her elegant north London home. The most precious items in Dijon’s assemblage are stored in acid-free boxes, including her expansive collection of 20th century art, which documents queer culture through the community’s own eyes. The Chicago native began buying Vogue – and vinyl – at the age of 13. “It was like a fucking library,” she says of the meticulously neat bookshelves that spanned the walls of her 1990s teenage bedroom. “I had a girlfriend in grade school who used to bring Vogue to class and, like…

There’s these opportunities that come and you feel it in your gut,” says Olivia Washington, 33, of being offered a leading role in the West End transfer of American playwright Jeremy O Harris’s radical smash hit Slave Play, which became the most Tony-nominated non-musical show of all time after its 2019 Broadway run. “Sometimes you feel like, ‘Did I dream it or did someone actually say that they want me to come and work here?’” Provocative, challenging, daring, controversial: these are all words used to describe Harris’s work, which confronts ideas of race, sexuality and identity through the stories, and sexual exploits, of three interracial couples. Opening in the antebellum South, when slavery is still legal, Washington takes on the role of Kaneisha, the Black enslaved wife of Jim – played…

Few places are more filmic than Taormina, a hilltop town on the east coast of Sicily. Literally. It was here that Francis Ford Coppola based his crew while shooting for The Godfather trilogy, making Belmond’s historic Villa Sant’Andrea his home for the duration. In the ’70s, Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor were frequent guests of the hotel, and just as seduced decades later was The White Lotus creator Mike White, who used Taormina’s streets as the backdrop to the show’s second series. Where more perfect, then, for Belmond’s first beach club? Situated on the Bay of Mazzaró (right), Lido Villeggiatura unfurled its umbrellas in May. The midcentury aesthetic – think blue-and-white striped sunloungers and a bar top made from lava-stone tiles from nearby Mount Etna – makes the club the ideal…

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GIORGIO ON MY MIND

Milan, summer 1975. A 41-year-old Giorgio Armani has sold his blue Volkswagen Beetle to finance a new fashion business. He rents a tiny office and hires two members of staff: a young secretarial student, Irene Pantone, and an irrepressible showman from Tuscany, Sergio Galeotti, who is in charge of sales. In what passed back then for a showroom, the three brought out a menswear collection, followed by one for women. Both debuted to great acclaim, the buying public entranced by the deceptive simplicity and elegance of Armani’s clothes. In time, a new glossary would be coined for his palette: “greige”, “sand”, “mushroom”, “biscuit”. American critic Dodie Kazanjian would write in Vogue that Armani was “doing for the jacket what others were doing for philosophy, architecture and art”. “I have always looked forward…

GIORGIO ON MY MIND

Whatever it TAKES

As a teenager living in Kocho, a village in Sinjar, Iraq, Nadia Murad was a total beauty obsessive. When she was 13, she set up a makeshift salon in a sheep house on the family farm, where she lived with her 10 siblings and mother, and would invite friends and neighbours and do their hair and make-up. “So many times,” she recalls, smiling, “I was sent back from school because I was wearing lipstick.” But in 2014 her world was obliterated. It will be 10 years this August since Isis arrived in Sinjar. Ten years since the jihadist group killed thousands of men and older women, and took the younger women and children into captivity. Ten years since Murad’s mother, and six of her brothers and step-brothers, were murdered. All because…

Whatever it TAKES

SET DESIGN: KEI YOSHINO. PRODUCTION: ARTWORLD. DIGITAL ARTWORK: DAVID BARREIRO. WITH THANKS TO MERIKE SEIN. ROSIE HARRIET ELLIS; EDDIE WREY; Vogue, July 2022…

Organic CHEMISTRY

Organic CHEMISTRY

21 NEW RULES of jewellery

1 Create your own signature. When I designed my Chakra bracelets, I faced resistance from my workshop, who refused to string high jewellery materials with elastics. I love to combine semi-precious materials such as rose quartz with rubies and diamonds. Ananya Malhotra, jewellery designer 2 Buying what you love can also be sustainable: invest in timeless, good quality pieces that can be passed down to future generations. Susan Caplan, vintage jewellery specialist 3 Don’t save jewels for special occasions. The contemporary collector picks pieces that blend seamlessly into their everyday style. Fernando Jorge, jewellery designer 4 When it comes to the red carpet, a twinkling men’s brooch affixed to a lapel or bow tie is as precious as any statuette – see Colman Domingo (left) at the 2024 Oscars. Laura Ingham, deputy director, Global Fashion Network, Vogue 5…

21 NEW RULES of jewellery

A single strand of milky-white resin pearls, seemingly thrown on as an afterthought – draped over the collar of a shirt or glimpsed beneath a ladylike, double-breasted coat – signalled a change in the fashion tide on Miu Miu’s autumn/winter ’24 runway. For Miuccia Prada, the creative force behind the Milanese brand, every detail matters and, as the show notes explained, the new season looks delivered a “vocabulary of clothing, from childhood to adulthood”. What’s Mrs Prada spelling out? A pearl renaissance is upon us and the once conservative necklace is now gaining a provocative edge. “There is an elegance and regal energy to pearls, it can make a look immediately feel graceful,” says stylist Holly White, who dressed British actor India Amarteifio in a pearl-encrusted Sabina Bilenko gown for the London…

LOOKING for the LIGHT

It wasn’t until I was in the throes of change that I realised how pivotal pain could be, not just for myself but for others. The idea of recording a podcast based on my experience of living with chronic pain came about as a way to create a space for people to connect with others who might be going through something similar. Each episode of my show, I’m Fine, is a deep-dive into my guests’ remarkable personal stories, ranging from physical chronic pain to addiction, anxiety and mental health problems, fostering conversations around the myriad forms of suffering that so many are navigating in silence. It has been both humbling and inspiring to discover the mind-body methods that can move us beyond pain to access possibility, positivity and productivity to…

LOOKING for the LIGHT

When it comes to clothing, my preferences are clear: bold prints, bright colours, big silhouettes – maximalist tendencies reign in my wardrobe. But when it comes to make-up, despite the privilege of a job that sees all manner of products pass through my desk, my choices have always been decidedly more minimalist. So why is it then, that when it comes to show season, I am always drawn to the most out-there colours? Take, for instance, the pale yellow eyeliner by Fara Homidi for Victoria Beckham’s a/w ’23 show – a trend that continued on the autumn/winter ’24 runways, where Peter Philips placed a pop of hot pink on the inner corners of models’ eyes at Dior, and Terry Barber added a sweep of matt red to the lips at…

SAVE FOR BEST Pretty frocks and striped shirts are par for the course for formalwear. OUT AND ABOUT Foraging and rural roaming calls for comfy utilitywear in the coolest of prints. TIME FOR TEA Elevate any garden party with smocking, florals and frills. Accessories essential. HEAT WAVES Whether poolside or beachside on a hot balmy day, splash it out in style.…

BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS

as the festive frenzy hit its peak last Christmas, I found myself amid the crowds at Selfridges with only one destination in mind: the beauty hall. Armed with a wishlist of skincare products from my teenage twin daughters that even I, a well-versed Vogue fashion editor, hadn’t heard of, I noticed I wasn’t alone in my mission, as similarly aged parents and teens were doing exactly the same. Look online and you will find the same hysteria: Space NK is reporting standout engagement with Gen Z-focused brands such as Sol de Janeiro, Naturium and Laneige, and lip care trending at triple-digit growth with cult products from Summer Fridays and Rare Beauty at the top of shoppers’ lists (my daughters included). So what is it about skincare that has this generation of…

BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS

MIND THE HEALTH GAP

if a man, let’s say a healthy, white, 35-year-old man, were to suffer a third-degree tear in his perineum during a motorbike accident, just how likely do you think it would be that he’d be sent home and told to just do pelvic floor exercises? If that man experienced pain during sex, how likely is it that he’d simply consider it part of being human? If he suffered urine dysfunction and bowel problems, how likely is it that a GP would tell him that this is a common side effect of riding motorbikes? And yet, for women and people who give birth, all too often this is precisely how we’re treated. “There is an expectation that part of being a woman is to deal with pain and we should just put…

MIND THE HEALTH GAP

ESTELLE MANOR, United Kingdom Perhaps it will be the mini off-road Jeeps, or adventure paddock with its archery, falconry, zip wire and tree climbing. Or perhaps it might be the Den, featuring gaming, foosball, pool tables and board games. Or it might well be the partnership with the adjacent Blenheim Palace, where you can go fishing, book into its adventure playground or picnic on the jetty. But either way, Estelle Manor has a host of activities to keep children, from toddlers to teenagers, active all summer long. For the best family accommodation experience on-site, try its woodland cottage cabins, which, secluded in the forest, have an adventurous treehouse feeling that will only enhance the little ones’ experience. From £1,700 per night. Estellemanor.com SANCTUARY TAMBARARE & SANCTUARY OLONANA, Kenya The Following in the Pawprints…

HERE COMES THE SUN

TAKE A TRIP THE GREAT OUTDOORS Little explorers can embrace their wild side in the 438 acres of land surrounding Heckfield Place this August. With a host of activities lined up by leading kids events company Sharky & George, it’s a chance to enjoy the magic of the outdoors. While each day has a different schedule, the youngest hotel guests can expect everything from denmaking to treasure hunts and fairy trails. Heckfieldplace.com PLAYING TO THE GALLERY Exploring the creations of world-renowned artists Alex and Allyson Grey, this exhibition is a mind-bending cacophony of colour, light, sound and movement that kids aged 12 and above will love. The visuals offer an immersive experience, while the free-flowing exhibition structure allows children to wander through at their own pace. Entheon: A Sanctuary of Visionary Art is at…

HERE COMES THE SUN

Some wouldn’t call our first link-up a meeting, but stay with me here. It’s a weeknight in 2022, early in the year. Someone’s offered me tickets to Dave’s headline show at The O2, which, being a fan, I quickly accept. There are no trains or Tubes running that night, so I find myself in the queue of cars crawling, painfully, towards the arena. But when we arrive, it’s worth it. Dave is, by all turns, magnificent and has the arena glittering with lights from phones desperate to record a souvenir of the moment. Then, about halfway through the gig, an undeniable drill beat starts up, guitars start being strummed over skipping hi-hats that has everyone lose themselves for a moment, or as I think good music and art does, brings…

National anthems

SHYGIRL “There’s no space in between music and fashion,” says 31-year-old south Londoner Blane Muise, oozing an awe-inspiring confidence you might not necessarily expect from an artist with the moniker Shygirl. “You can’t have one without the other.” With her latest siren-like EP, Club Shy, currently setting headphones on fire across the globe with its hyper-pop dance beats, it was her Mercury Prize-nominated debut album, 2022’s Nymph, that took her from your favourite musician’s favourite musician to the most in-demand act in town. Where does she find inspiration? “Love in all its forms.” JYOTY DJ, producer and radio host Jyoty has played the biggest stages in the world. (Glastonbury was a favourite; Coachella didn’t even rank – “I turned the offer to play down this year,” she says. “My manager won’t like this…

National anthems

The way she wore

Vivienne and I first met on a British Vogue photoshoot in 1999. I can’t remember where it was, but I had to be there at 12 o’clock, and I was busy trying to finish work for the Turner Prize. I said I would just go by Tube, but Vogue insisted on sending me a car. The traffc was horrific, and by the time I got there, I was in a really foul mood. Someone from Vogue asked if there was anything they could get me, and I said I needed some cigarettes. Then someone walked over and handed me a Gitane – and when I looked up, it was Vivienne Westwood. She said, “If you think you’ve got a problem, I’ve been here for hours!” We got on immediately and exchanged…

The way she wore

wish you were here

wish you were here

In a dressing room backstage at the London Palladium, Imelda Staunton is scrutinising a blown-up black and white portrait of Marilyn Monroe that’s hanging on the wall. “Do you think she enjoyed any of it?” Staunton asks, eyes trained on the photograph. She sounds genuinely curious, wistful – puzzled even. For Staunton, it is clear that being on stage and screen, as she has been for the past five decades, brings her straightforward, unbridled joy – that acting is, she tells me, “the most privileged job in the world”. We’re here in one of the West End’s most legendary theatres to talk about what is, very possibly, Staunton’s most joyous ride yet: the irrepressible Dolly Levi in a revival of Jerry Herman and Michael Stewart’s mood-lifting, life-giving musical Hello, Dolly! Staunton has…

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A s summer progresses and temperatures rise, so does the desire to leave the city. When it comes to holiday destinations, the UK has a particularly rich array of locations to choose from. Perhaps you prefer to head south to sunny Cornwall, to mess about in boats and explore postcard-pretty fishing villages. Maybe your tastes are more attuned to Scotland and the north, where there are hills aplenty to climb and no shortage of wild landscapes in which to roam. There are also plenty of other bucolic destinations between these two opposite ends of the British Isles, that are perfect for a summer getaway. Having a second home comes with plenty of advantages – being able to create a retreat that’s entirely suited to your own taste, not having to scramble…

FROM PLATE TO PENTHOUSE The name Nobu has become synonymous with fine dining, with outposts of the famous restaurant opening across the globe. Now, the company is branching out into branded residences, with an exciting array of properties in a variety of international locations – the US, Canada, Vietnam, and two separate projects in the UAE, in Abu Dhabi and Al Marjan. Opening in 2027, Nobu Al Marjan occupies a prime spot, overlooking a stretch of pristine sandy coastline. Residents will have access to a beach club, swimming pools, a spa and fitness facilities, not forgetting the iconic Nobu restaurant that inspired it all. For more information, visit nobuhotels.com/residences MODERNIST MARVEL Tucked away in the heart of St James’s, Smithson Plaza is one of the area’s best-kept secrets. Designed in 1964 by the…

What would Nicola Peltz Beckham do?

How do you get ready in five minutes? I don’t think I’ve ever gotten ready in five minutes – but if anyone can give me advice, I will take it. Any tips for unwinding? I need a cosy vibe. The fireplace on, my dogs, my husband Brooklyn [Peltz Beckham] and a TV show. Do you have a signature dish? Brooklyn does all the cooking, but I can add a good salad. Share your party trick. I don’t have one, but I can tell you how to get a vodka shot to go down easy: put cranberry juice in your mouth first. What makes you feel confident? I think when you’re happy and secure in yourself, you can tell. The secret to a successful dinner party? An open-plan kitchen and living room – it means you’re all together and it’s just super…

What would Nicola Peltz Beckham do?

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