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British GQ Style September 10th, 2019 Digital Back Issue Cover

British GQ Style Issue 29 (Digital)

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Issue 29

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28 Articles

The Contributors

Louie Banks Photographer When I was asked to shoot Orville Peck, all I knew was that he was an anonymous artist with great music and style, and I was dying to see the man behind the mask. When he showed up, it turned out he was an old friend of mine who I hadn’t seen for about three years, around the same time Orville has existed… Shan’t say who, though, that would be telling. Danielle Levitt Photographer I totally get why Maluma is a huge pop star; such charisma and charm fill up wherever he is. He was the perfect subject, loved the styling and gave us all of his attention. He was gracious, kind and posed for photos with adoring fans. Two moments I cherished most? When he danced salsa and when he sang…

The Contributors

The Editor’s letter

For me, a need for spiritual guidance has felt ever more acute in our current uncertain climate. It was inevitable that this issue of GQ Style would feel touched by a spectral influence, whether it be astrology (Horoscopes p.125), or bringing the seven colours that define different spiritual energy points in the human body to life through fashion (Chakra p.168) For this issue, three totemic words seemed to conjure themselves up – unapologetic, uninhibited and undressed – to describe some of the trailblazing creatives within this issue. There’s Mahmood, the Italian-Egyptian Eurovision alumnus who is unapologetic in his desire to represent a new, diverse Italy (p.184). Maluma is the uninhibited Colombian superstar whose refusal to change his Spanish-language lyrics – or red-hot raunchiness – has led him to create a new…

The Editor’s letter

Exotic skins The evening jacket gets a reptilian overhaul this season. A patina of python provides elegant armour to glide through any cocktail soirée — scale up and shine on. Satin and diamonds All apologies to Marilyn Monroe, but diamonds are a guy’s best friend. A button-up? So yesterday. Bow ties? Forget it! Pair your formal suit with Chopard’s finest for a truly dazzling party season moment. Louche luxe Classic doesn’t have to mean boring. Armani’s slouchy silhouette gives a modern update to 1940s-leaning formalwear — ditch the bow tie and add clumpy shoes for a right-now twist. It’s a cinch It’s a sin to hide a well-proportioned waist beneath a baggy dinner jacket. Strike a bold silhouette with Michael Kors’ safari-inspired formalwear with a devilish dose of Studio 54 flair. Leather bound Leave it to Hedi Slimane to…

Danielle Levitt takes her Rick Owens dedication to a level that fashion’s dark prince himself could scarcely have dreamed of. ‘I got married in a Rick Owens dress!’ the Los Angeles-based photographer says with a laugh. ‘His clothing is very wearable, I mean, I’m 5’4” and when I wear it, I feel like a 6ft glamazon.’ An honorary member of the Owens clan since 2013, Levitt has documented every one of his runway shows since SS14’s earth-quaking, hair-flipping, step-dancer-focused ‘Vicious’ show. This autumn, their long collaboration is immortalised in Rizzoli’s new book Rick Owens, all photographed by Danielle Levitt, which showcases Owens’ most indelible and convention-defying looks from the last decade. Inside the tome, revisit the priestly draped layers of SS17’s ‘Sinclair’ collection, the enigmatic aliens-gone-raving of SS19’s ‘Babel’ and SS16’s…

Rado A flash of emerald green is the modern way to add a touch of opulence to any outfit. The jewel-toned dial on this Rado watch with its contrasting brown leather strap makes it a versatile day-to-night piece Rolex Photography Sun Lee Styling Ben Schofield Pulling your phone out in a low-lit cocktail bar to check the time is the ultimate mood killer. Rolex’s uber-modern Sea-Dweller style features a slick black dial and subtle luminescent materials — perfect for clandestine nocturnal adventures. Hublot Photography Sun Lee Styling Ben Schofield Fall into autumn with effortless ensembles in classic neutrals. Don this Hublot watch which blends seamlessly with biscuit and charcoal tones. Pair it with your favourite coat for easy style Tissot Photography Sun Lee Styling Ben Schofield Reminiscent of a clear night sky, the inky blue dial and gleaming silver bracelet…

Banish any image you might have of fashion designers cloistered in dimly lit studios: Dior menswear artistic director Kim Jones and photographer Nikolai von Bismarck dreamt up their new book during a bucolic stroll in London’s Grade I-listed Hyde Park. Released this October by Rizzoli and with proceeds going to the Teenage Cancer Trust, The Dior Sessions is an appropriately regal-feeling timestamp to mark Kim Jones’ first year at the house. Since taking the reins in spring 2018, Jones has re-envisioned the elegant craftsmanship and couture finesse that are synonymous with the brand, while adding a fresh modernity that’s uniquely his own. The subjects featured in the handsome hardcover reflect Jones’ spider-like reach through a range of creative disciplines, and are all captured with von Bismarck’s monochrome shadowplay. Diplo leathers up, Robert…

First class Your in-flight essentials just got a luxe upgrade Surf’s up Ready to catch some winter sun? Pack in California-cool style Take a hike Go off-road and channel your inner explorer Good sport Refresh your gym bag with these slick basics Photographer Sun Lee Styling Sophie Clark and Ben Schofield…

Steven Braines and Sophia Kearney have a manifesto that we could all do well to be reminded of: Let People Be People. ‘It’s essentially a nice way of saying keep your opinions to yourself,’ Braines says with a wink. ‘No one needs to know if you think they shouldn’t wear something, or that they should conform to your standards of beauty or gender.’ That’s a message that’s central to the ultrainclusive HE. SHE. THEY., the boundary-annihilating electronic club night that the duo debuted at London’s Ministry of Sound last year (they insisted on making the loos unisex), and has since hosted nights from Ibiza to India, with guest DJs including Honey Dijon and Maya Jane Coles. It’s become a home for flamboyant experimentalists of every stripe, with that ethos now…

Don’t overlook the hoodie, forever a fashion grail and a byword for easy cool. Our favourites of the season are proof: Paul & Shark’s fun collegiate colours, Saint Laurent’s gothy fuzz, Scotch & Soda’s rainbow gothic lettering and the Selfridges-exclusive KURT WAS HERE line, printed with Mr Cobain’s original graphic illustrations. Backpacks can be slung out of sight, but they shouldn’t be out of mind. Structured carry-alls hold their shape and pull their weight. Prada’s Re-Nylon line renders the house’s styles in regenerated nylon, and Smython’s leather bag is pure understated chic. Meanwhile, Daks and Givenchy make satchel- and utility-inspired designs a must. Behold the autumn jacket, in all its versatile glory — often more affordable than a winter coat, and just as cosy. Coach’s donkey jacket gets pizzazz with tartan and…

Totally Versatile

As a general rule, a foolproof formula for curating a versatile wardrobe is not being afraid of mixing texture and tone. It’s also a chance to rethink your go-to outfits. Luckily, M&S has the key pieces this Autumn/Winter for a lesson in how to elevate your everyday essentials: a complementary colour palette of forest green, khaki, and navy with highlights of camel, rust and burgundy crafted from luxe fabrics of corduroy, velvets and supersoft knitwear. Team a corduroy shearling-lined jacket with a striped knit jumper – an AW19 staple – and relaxed slim fit denim jeans. Finish with chunky black leather Chelsea boots to round off a laid back look with a touch of understated elegance. When it comes to tailoring, consider the new style rules. For a deconstructed but…

Totally Versatile

Michael B Jordan

Michael B Jordan is as hungover as hell. Of course, the Black Panther star doesn’t say this – he has far too much social grace – but this Brooklyn hotel suite is littered with evidence. There’s the half-drunk bottles of Seagram’s ginger ale and water, the all-black comfy outfit he wears, and the fact that he is slumped on a sofa like an absurdly attractive deflated balloon. It’s the day after this year’s camp-themed Met Ball, so Jordan has a good excuse for his current state, especially given that the event’s cellphone blackout gives A-listers a rare night out without the anxiety of ending up on Page Six. What time did he get to bed? ‘Around five.’ 5am? Jordan laughs. ‘That isn’t that bad for New York!’ he says. So you…

Michael B Jordan

How Creed reinvented cologne

You know Creed Aventus already: it’s an attentiongrabbing fragrance for men who want a big, bold scent, and this season The House Of Creed is introducing a rebellious twist on its cult classic. Aventus Cologne is the brand new eau de parfum from The House Of Creed. Strictly speaking – in terms of strength – it’s an eau de parfum rather than a cologne, but it earns the name by being specifically designed to refresh and revitalise. This is a scent that’s a perfect counter to the grittiness of life in the city, whether you need to freshen up at work or have just finished a workout. Inspired by the invigorating citrus splash of traditional colognes, Aventus Cologne has been carefully calibrated to deliver a boost to your day whenever you need…

How Creed reinvented cologne

ARIES 21 March–20 April Caught in the most intensely political career cycle in over two centuries, you need to vent on a regular basis, Aries. Silently stewing isn’t the answer, but hiking or Bikram yoga will help. You are the fighter, not the lover, of the zodiac, and are happiest when backing a winner in a fierce contest, leading a project or conquering your spin class. Coming second is boring. You much prefer to come quickly, which was a problem in your adolescence, though these days, your biggest challenge is work, not love. Your year of reckoning is 2020, thanks to a sweeping reshuffle in your profession or workplace. You’re a leather gloves man – did you know? No mittens for you. You’ll use your gloves the way Anthony Joshua does, with…

The new classics

When they launched their luxury tailoring label The Row in 2006, Mary-Kate Olsen and Ashley Olsen had a subtly subversive stroke of genius. The creative duo used the traditional fabrics of men’s tailoring to create innovative yet understated women’s pieces, and used menswear factories to create them, to boot. So The Row’s menswear line, now in its third season, represents less of a brand overhaul than a full-circle moment. Sumptuous cashmere sweaters, cosy wool coats and ultrasoft joggers are the last word in discreet power dressing – find them on The Row’s recently launched online store for a truly covert shopping experience. Groomer Anna Payne at CLM Model Joel Dent at Supa Model Management Stylist’s assistant Kit Swann Location KO Studio…

The new classics

Take on winter with trainers that are loud, proud, and unapologetically extra. Strut in pillarbox red and tangerine with Vuitton and UGG X Heron Preston, while Gucci’s Ultrapace is a kaleidoscope of colours and snakeskin texture. On the flipside, Celine’s suede leopard gives a rock and roll edge to sneaker style – even if you were born to be mild. Rubber-soled boots are the must-have foil for slushy winter streets — skidding like Bambi on the ice is not chic. And they’re a versatile style: Dune’s exposed grommets punk up black leather, Grenson and Loake come through with timeless takes on the design, while Brunello’s leather boots have the faded tones of a vintage treasure. Stylist Gary Armstrong Stylist’s assistant Kit Swann; Photography Jessie Lily Adams…

YOUTH IN REVOLT

MS CARRIE STACKS Ms Carrie Stacks is wearing Jimmy Choo shoes, and diamonds so expensive a man has been hired to guard them. ‘It’s every girl’s dream,’ she gasps. Stacks herself exists outside of labels – the Londoner says she’s in a state of transitioning. ‘I don’t want to define her,’ she says of herself playfully. Ms Stacks is still figuring out who she wants to be. ‘She’s beauty, art, and fabulous, and she just wants to continue her journey.’ In her quest to carve out space for QTPOC (Queer and Trans People of Colour), Stacks was an integral part of PDA, one of London’s most debauched yet secretive club nights. ‘Me and my friends needed a space, somewhere dark, murky, and sweaty where I could throw my hands in the…

YOUTH IN REVOLT

In association with FLANNELS Groomer Sven Bayerbach at Carol Hayes Management using Kiehl’s Since 1851 Models Jason Grotjahn at Kult, Michael C and Deano Perona at Next, Tyler Maher at Storm and Vincent Marc at Wilhelmina Photo assistant Ben Turner at Assist London Stylist’s assistants Emily Tighe and Mahatma Michael Grooming assistant Francesca Ingram Digital technician Luke Johnson at Assist London Production KO Collective Production assistant Brooke O’Hare Casting director Paul Isaac Digital imaging Dienachbarin.at Location Spring Studios London…

at a glance, everything about Orville Peck is designed to provoke a response. Let’s start with the masks, which shield the lower half of the nascent country outlaw’s face and compel you to meet his piercing gaze. Peck designed and stitched together each of the dozens of masks in his collection – with their fringed veils and eyeholes cropped out of black leather, they radiate kinky menace, as if he could take you behind the barn at a moment’s notice and hand down some hardearned punishment. His outfits are a whirlwind of denim and rhinestones, from pastel-coloured Nudie suits to leather vests that show off a patchwork of mysterious tattoos. Peck’s transgressive instincts extend to his art. His videos return over and over again to the same scenes: dank motel rooms,…

With a dazzling Eurovision performance and an international mega-hit, Mahmood is having a dream year. But after Twitter hate from Matteo Salvini, Italy’s most vocal far-right politician, the Egyptian-Italian style peacock has also become an emblem for a generation with no time for prejudice. Even so, he says the values that underpin his music remain unshaken Alessandro Mahmoud is distracted – not just by birds flying overhead, but by the whoops and hollers of a neighbouring beach volleyball match. He’s in Sardinia, taking a well-earned holiday, but has pressed pause on the bronzing to talk about life post-Eurovision. He finished second in the annual singing competition with the minimalist, trap-inflected Soldi, a song about his parents’ divorce delivered in Italian and Arabic. Ask for his overriding memory of May’s deliciously OTT…

The rise and fall of Spud

Hair stylist Michael Harding at D+V Make-up Scarlett Walker Models Danny Blake, Pontus and Christian at Select Model Management, Hamish F at Supa Model Management, Pascal Aku at Models 1, Lawrence Perry at The Squad, Oscar Wieczorek and Josh Ingate Photo assistants Connor MacLeod and Straton Heron Stylist’s assistant Kit Swann Digital technician Rob Jarvis Production KO Collective Lighting 123 Lighting Retouching Studio RM Location Westgate-On-Sea With thanks to Ivan at Squarewheels, Karen at The Rodney Pub, Lodge Coaches and Sharon Kelly at Thanet Council…

The rise and fall of Spud

Maluma is marooned on an island of rocks in the middle of the ocean. It’s an incandescent and sweltering summer day at the Vizcaya Museum and Gardens in Miami, a sprawling century-old estate that’s been turned into a tourist attraction. Here for today’s photo shoot, the Colombian artist has found privacy on the beat-up remnants of a big stone dock, smashed to rubble by Hurricane Irma in 2017 but still accessible by a bridge. He hobbles onto the jagged terrain in oversized white fashion sneakers, a peacock in blue and pink silk Versace, his sleeves too long on his buff arms, his shorts too short on his thick thighs, his fingers and wrists and pecs covered in too many gold rings and bracelets and necklaces. The quiet doesn’t last long:…

Can’t Tell Me Nothin’

I the music video for his record-smashing country-rap single Old Town Road, Lil Nas X parades himself through time and space, a rogue cowboy whose sole mission in life is to be looked at. He and his horse teleport from the late 19th century to the year 2019 and plop down on a contemporary urban street, prompting perplexed stares from the denizens of the neighbourhood. Nonplussed, X dances casually, outpaces a car on his horse in a drag race, and spends his winnings on a trove of jewellery and a black fringed jacket bedazzled with his stage name. He has arrived in our time to be fabulous. One of the first pop icons of Generation Z, the 20-year-old star (real name: Montero Lamar Hill) from Lithia Springs, Georgia, owes his ballooning…

Can’t Tell Me Nothin’

Gwendoline Christie

Gwendoline Christie was in an Uber, in July, in typical London traffic, when she found out she’d received an Emmy nomination for her work on Game of Thrones. She became so emotional that now, two days later over lunch, she still feels bad for her poor driver. ‘Because of the amount of emotion I was producing!’ she says, sliding into a woodpanelled Viennese restaurant’s leather banquette and ordering a coffee. ‘I imagine I got a really bad rating.’ She mimics a heaving sob and a loud wail. ‘I didn’t think that was going to happen. I really didn’t!’ But the nomination made perfect sense. Everyone agrees that as Brienne of Tarth, Christie did some of her best work in the show’s final season. It was physically demanding – one fight sequence…

Gwendoline Christie

In association with MICHAEL KORS…

John Waters’ seventh book, Mr. Know-It-All, – a funhouse mirror image of the traditional self-help manual – opens with a quandary.‘The worst thing that can happen to a creative person has happened to me,’ he writes. ‘I am accepted.’ It’s the biggest imaginable shock for a man who’s made a career out of his ability to subvert and scandalise. The Baltimore-born director’s catalogue of video nasties from 1964 to 2004 were like a grenade attack on cinematic proprietary. He made 300lb drag queen Divine his bodacious Marilyn, introduced the world to the heathen pleasures of a ‘rosary job’ (google it) and developed scratch ’n’ sniffs for cinema audiences imbued with the unholy scents of flatulence and dirty shoes. Back when Waters made the filmed-on-ashoestring trash classic Pink Flamingos in 1972, even…

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