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British GQ Style issue 32 (Digital)

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What did you work on for this issue, and what makes you feel positive right now? Josh Hight PHOTOGRAPHER ‘I worked on the portfolio cover story celebrating incredibly strong and talented people living with HIV, as well as advocates pushing the dialogue forward to educate people that living with HIV isn’t a death sentence. Get tested! What makes me feel positive right now is walking with my dog on the South Downs.’ Paul Flynn WRITER ‘I helped assemble the HIV/AIDS portfolio, profiling Ana Matronic, Mike Christie and Mykki Blanco. I also had the honour of eavesdropping on the conversation between Matthew Lopez and Instagram’s The AIDS Memorial. At the time of writing, sinking a pint of cold, fizzy tap lager in a sunny beer garden is the height of personal positivity.’ Jamal Jordan WRITER ‘I spoke with Lil Nas…

Editor’s Letter

Right now, your best quality may be your positivity. There’s no question – it rubs off on everyone around you. When I first began to think of themes for this issue and what mindset we would be in by summer 2021, I could only hope that a bright new future with a positive outlook would be blooming. I think I was right. It’s been a time to reflect and reevaluate what’s important; to define our new core values. This issue is particularly poignant for me as it marks my ten-year anniversary of joining GQ Style. It’s not often I indulge in recollections of past issues, but I’m very proud of the constant evolution of the publication, and that is something to behold. The past ten years have been rather like the…

Editor’s Letter

Artistic licence

Let your imagination take flight this summer with a series of ‘cosmic’ pop-up stores in cities around the world, unveiling Dior’s ‘hyperreal’ Fall 2021 menswear collection designed by Kim Jones in collaboration with American artist Kenny Scharf. This May, the Selfridges Corner Shop in London is hosting an immersive experience where characters from Scharf’s universe (inspired by cartoons, surrealism and sci-fi) are brought to life amidst décor that references the collection’s futuristic virtual catwalk presentation. Whether you go for pieces featuring Scharf’s vibrant motifs in jacquards and subtle seed-stitch embroidery by Chinese artisans – such as these ‘JoJo’-print sneakers in technical fabric – or a tailored jacket or coat adorned with moiré silk, one thing’s for sure – you’ll look like a work of art.…

Artistic licence

September issue

When it comes to collaborations between legends of the punk era, it’s hard to imagine one more impressive and authentic than this. For her SS21 collection, original King’s Road design disrupter Vivienne Westwood has teamed up with fellow new-wave icon Chrissie Hynde, whose paintings are used as hero prints across the collection, with proceeds going to the artist and Pretenders musician’s chosen charity. This bold statement shirt in clashing pop-art shades features the ‘One Fun September’ print, taken from Hynde’s limited-edition painting of the same name, and is the perfect piece for playful warm-weather styling. So, if you’ve got brass in pocket, why wait until September? One Fun Summer starts right here.…

September issue

Driving ambition

If you like your watches precise and your cars fast, this is the collaboration for you. To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the iconic Jaguar E-Type, luxury British watch brand Bremont has released a limited-edition box set featuring a chronograph (60 in green and 60 in grey) and a rally timer. With a black dial that nods to the design of the E-Type’s gauges, bezel and strap colours that match the E-Type 60 Edition’s Pantone shades, a hardened stainless steel case, treated steel hands and a 22mm leather strap, the timepiece is as glamorous as the car that inspired it. And here’s something to really make your engine purr: every box set comes with a unique driving experience hosted by Jaguar Classic – so you can slip on your watch,…

Driving ambition

Sportswear and fashion go hand in hand, and no brand has played a bigger part in joining the two than FILA. Now, to celebrate the brand’s heritage, comes the 110th Anniversary collection, curated by stylist and creative director Katie Grand, who has selected pieces from the archive and redesigned them with a contemporary twist, turning her expert eye on everything from golf blousons and knits to bobsleigh catsuits, basketball tops and shorts, aerobics gear and mountain puffers. The result is a collection that prizes both the vintage appeal of the pieces and the modernity of their reimagining. With the iconic FILA logo (designed in 1973) front and centre throughout, and a neat palette of black, white, red and navy, it’s a slam dunk for your summer wardrobe.…

Nothing puts a spring in our step more than a Dolce & Gabbana sneaker, and the label has dropped its smart new design just in time for us to be striding about town again. An evolution of the iconic Sorrento style, the new NS1 sneakers channel the 1970s with a muted retro colour palette, whilst bringing the contemporary comfort levels you’d expect from the luxury brand; crafted from technical fabric and Crosta leather, with an ultra-flexible rubber sole, they have a versatile shape and a lightness that makes them a joy to wear. The style is available in several different colourways and has also been reinterpreted in an elegant sandal version, should you fancy getting your toes out this summer.…

Forward thinking

After a year spent looking forward to the future and the return of normality, The Kooples’ new kicks couldn’t be more aptly named. Inspired by the Nineties aesthetic but with a futuristic vibe, the Tomorrow sneaker has a pleasingly chunky shape and comes in classic white or smart grey and silver, with sleek metal detailing on the laces. These big, bouncy trainers will look just as sharp whether you wear them with the brand’s signature suits or pair them with wide-legged slacks for a more relaxed look. Plus, crafted from soft calfskin and with a newly designed sole, they also deliver ultimate comfort and freedom of movement. The perfect sneakers for leaving yesterday (and lockdown) behind. Stylist’s assistant Kit Swann Lighting assistant Kiran Mane Digi op Chris Chudleigh Set design Jacki…

Forward thinking

Armani ‘I suggest a softly tailored grey suit; it’s versatile and signals a return to dressing up. For evening, [right] an unstructured, elegant jacket and wide straight-leg trousers speak of glamour, but still look and feel casual.’ GIORGIO ARMANI Dunhill ‘The Compendium parka is multifunctional and can be worn in various ways. We have all had to adapt our lives and consumption this past year and I believe we need fewer, but better pieces that can adapt with our lifestyles. This is the underlying philosophy of the parka.’ MARK WESTON, CREATIVE DIRECTOR Salvatore Ferragamo ‘The oversized jumper is cosy yet luxurious, with the feeling of comfort we’ve all been seeking in lockdown. The vibrant mauve makes me want to smile, and the soft mohair is asking to be touched! Worn with an abstract shirt and classic trousers,…

HERMÈS H is for… height of elegance. And this quietly luxe belt is exactly that ROLEX Forget hours, minutes and seconds. With this beauty on your wrist, you’ll have style for days SAINT LAURENT If we have to start commuting again, a smart designer bag is non negotiable BERLUTI Whether in Belize or Brighton, slip into something more comfortable CANALI Keep your hands free and your style on point with a backpack that’s ready for anything GIVENCHY Show us a man about town who doesn’t want a Givenchy shopper… we’ll wait TUDOR Reign supreme in the watch stakes with a timepiece fit for a king Stylist’s assistant Kit Swann Lighting assistant Kiran Mane Digi op Chris Chudleigh Set design Jacki Castelli Set design assistant Ysabel Kaye Production KO Collective…

SMART, REDEFINED

Sales of loungewear have soared in the last year, and while we’re willing to say goodbye to most of our lockdown habits – takeaways and time-sucking TikTok binges, to name but two – we’re not quite ready to ditch the trusty tracksuit bottoms that served us below desk during every Zoom meeting. Luckily, we don’t have to, as a new collection from M&S offers ‘smart, redefined’. It sees the high-street stalwart launch a series of menswear items that bridge the gap between suave suiting and the comfort-forward fabrics and styles we’ve come to know and love in our living rooms. For fans of the stretch factor, the collection’s jersey suit offers post-pandemic comfort converts a co-ord set to take you from the sofa to the office. Available in either a textured black…

SMART, REDEFINED

As part of Calvin Klein’s continuing evolution, the label has committed to working with different creatives to help tell its story. The first step towards that vision is the collaboration with Been Trill co-founder Heron Preston, who has taken the brand’s most necessary, iconic wardrobe staples – the underwear, the white shirt, the jeans – and reinterpreted them to create a minimalist, sustainable collection. Baseline pieces are elevated by attention to detail and unexpected touches (simple silhouettes are cut with precision; raised ribbing and stitching creates an almost 3D effect), and the collection’s unisex approach gives a season-transcending, inclusive feel. Says Preston: ‘I wanted to find a universal language. One that doesn’t alienate but invites you into this world of simplicity, removing complexity and allowing you to discover your own…

UNDERGROUND STAR

In association with Screenwriter and director Barry Jenkins first spotted Aaron Pierre when he visited London in 2018 to watch friend and Moonlight actor André Holland perform as the titular character in Othello at the Globe theatre. Pierre played Cassio, the gallant soldier whose good looks are exploited to stoke jealousy in Othello by the play’s villain, Iago. ‘[Jenkins] sent me a direct message on Twitter, and really generously showed his love and support for what he saw,’ Pierre says over Zoom from his home in South London. The actor relished the opportunity to connect with Jenkins – ‘a genius and incredible storyteller’ – and the plans they established to collaborate have now been realised in Amazon Prime Video’s The Underground Railroad. The Underground Railroad, produced by Jenkins and adapted from Colson…

UNDERGROUND STAR

Homework Working From Home is here to stay, so combine comfort with chic with these essential pieces Outdoor Explorer Rediscover your freedom – these pieces will help you run wild in the country Chill AF The vital ingredients to help make staying healthy at home sweeter than ever Seascapes Stay dapper and debonair this summer with the season’s most celebratory beach styles…

There is never a bad time to show righteous acts of allyship – until they become tinged with hypocrisy. The pandemic changed the way we protest forever. In the 2010s, righteous marches were organised by Black Lives Matter to protest the deaths of innocent Black men like Trayvon Martin in 2012, and Eric Garner in 2014. Yet in the wake of the deaths of George Floyd, Breonna Taylor and more last year, activism largely went online. The collective reckoning that followed was incredibly galvanising – and unprecedented. Social media was flooded with hashtags that rightfully insisted we #SayTheirNames. Hashtags helped to raise millions for organisations like the NAACP and Campaign Zero, and were a valuable organising tool for the marches that did happen IRL. But some of the hashtagging was troubling.…

BLUE SKY THINKING

After a year in lockdown, what could be more enticing as we reconnect with the world at large than a collection designed for living adventurously? In its fifth season, Eye/LOEWE/Nature has created a SS21 collection that not only celebrates our natural environment, but also respects it, with a focus on sustainability and materials that are recycled, upcycled and repurposed. Vintage and workwear inspirations come together in a collection of practical, stylish pieces that will unleash your inner explorer. From outerwear and T-shirts to shoes and accessories, Jonathan Anderson’s collection is brought to life by unique, unexpected details and fabrics that have been washed to give an aged, distressed feel: hooded jackets have integrated backpacks; reversible jackets are crafted from upcycled carpets; vintage T-shirts are assembled to create colourful stripe motifs…

BLUE SKY THINKING

Against all odds

What happens when your audience disappears? If art only makes sense when seen, then it was definitely going to struggle in a year when all galleries, museums and project spaces closed their doors. Yet many contemporary artists not only survived the past year of never-ending closings and openings, but also flourished. In many cases, closed doors provided the opportunity to make new work, forge new directions and reach new viewers. Whatever the norm was before March 2020 feels like ancient history – dozens of international art fairs, tens of biennials and a constant stream of monthly changing exhibitions. Stopping production, slowing down and rethinking how capitalism affects the creation of cultural ideas was itself a radical and much needed change. Artists were inextricably intertwined with the expression of protest and political…

Against all odds

‘If we cannot share our stories here, we cannot share them anywhere’ ‘There is now a danger that has become a threat to us all. It is a deadly disease and there is no known cure.’ These were the words spoken for a TV advert in 1987. The booming voiceover by John Hurt was intended to raise viewer awareness of a new health scare, first known as GRID (Gay-Related Immune Deficiency), then AIDS (Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome). A gravestone inscribed with those four letters was enough to make you hide behind the sofa, cover your eyes or turn off the television. I was seven years old when I first saw that advert. And I was terrified. Yet here we are, 34 years later, in a place where, ironically, the ability to turn…

Let’s push things forward.

Callum Scott Howells 22, actor A couple of weeks after It’s A Sin, the tough-to-binge drama of queer liberty and devastation, began airing on TV, one of its most beloved stars, nascent actor Callum Scott Howells, got a phone call. ‘I was in my house and Elton called,’ Howells says (‘Elton’ being Elton John). ‘I couldn’t believe it! He said how terrific he thought the show and our performances were. It really meant the world to hear those words from him, I felt bowled over.’ The Rocket Man isn’t the only one to express what the show meant to him. Since being broadcast in January on Channel 4, archived to streaming and shown on HBO Max in the US, It’s A Sin has unleashed an outpouring of emotion online. Its poised depiction of…

Let’s push things forward.

How would learning about HIV at school help to change young people’s approach to sexual relationships when growing up? There’s no doubt in my mind that earlier knowledge of HIV would change our view on the virus. It would help people make better decisions in their sex lives and help prevent the spread from a younger age. Understanding the seriousness and risks, but also normalising this human virus is key to beating HIV and ending the stigma Did knowing about HIV change the way you interacted in sexual relationships? I remember living in fear of getting HIV before I became positive, and I’m sure a lot of people can relate to that. You’re going about, discovering and experimenting with your sexuality, meeting people and having fun – pair that with the terrifying thought…

Layton Williams

Where did you first learn about HIV? I was never taught about it at school. Growing up, I knew that it was a thing in the gay community, but didn’t really know [about it] – only that I had to be careful. I grew up thinking I had to be more careful because of my sexual orientation, which is ridiculous, really. I fully got schooled on the HIV crisis and AIDS epidemic when I played Angel in Rent. When I started to do research to play the character, I realised that there was so much I didn’t know about. Playing Angel was very eye opening – it was an important learning curve for me. Did researching the HIV crisis affect the way you played Angel? Rent highlights a time that was so devastating,…

Layton Williams

Lloyd Russell-Moyle

When Lloyd Russell-Moyle stood up in Parliament in 2018, during a House of Commons debate on public health, and told the world that he was HIV+, he didn’t wake up that morning and think, ‘I’m going to share some really personal information about my life for a laugh.’ He did it because he was concerned about the government’s seemingly lackadaisical approach to sexual health and HIV prevention. ‘The government had been cutting funding for sexual-health services and had not been agreeing to roll out PrEP,’ he says. ‘I just thought that speaking out about my own status at that point would help push the government to do something. I knew that was an important thing to do, but it’s difficult opening yourself up.’ Yet he did, and as the nerves faded…

Lloyd Russell-Moyle

Dr Rupert Whitaker

Dr Rupert Whitaker hasn’t watched It’s A Sin. ‘I’ve seen clips and snippets and, my God, what an amazing job they did,’ he says one morning over the phone. ‘But I haven’t been able to sit down and watch it. I’ve got a friend who said he would do it once lockdown is over. But it’s just too hard to dive into that right now.’ Dr Whitaker’s hesitance to relive the height of the epidemic is understandable. For four decades, he has been living with HIV and has seen countless lives lost to the disease, including that of his partner, Terry Higgins, who in 1982 became one of the first people in the UK to die from an AIDS-related illness. Spurred on by anger at the loss of his partner and…

Dr Rupert Whitaker

In March this year, Mykki Blanco (pronouns: they/them) dropped the first video for the first single from their incoming album, Broken Hearts & Beauty Sleep. In three and a half minutes of feelgood party music, Free Ride unravels much of the mythos built around one of the most arresting leftfield artists to have emerged in the past decade. In ten years working under their artistic nom de plume, Michael Quattlebaum Jr. has brushed the hem of the mainstream by working at the furthest margins of multi-disciplinary performance art. The first time I saw them perform, Mykki emerged from a tower of taffeta flames to deliver anarchic prose poetry at a New York art party. The last time I spoke to them, one month into the first lockdown, they had practically just…

Most sports are firmly rooted on the ground, played out on pitches, tracks, fields and courts. But diving is one of a kind, won with somersaults in the sky and sealed with a splash. It’s heavenly, it’s ethereal and it’s why watching 1980s videos of Greg Louganis diving is as close to quasi-religious sporting glory as you’re going to get. The iconography is there for all to see: in sports filmmaker Bud Greenspan’s footage from the 1984 LA Olympics (‘The World’s Greatest Diver Ever!’, as the YouTube clip says), Louganis is silhouetted against blue skies and blazing sunshine on the 10-metre platform, body chiselled to Greek-god perfection, arms spread Christ-like over the City of Angels. As a commentator in the film says, ‘There are two categories of divers. There are those…

Sometimes, when they spot a copy of Derek Jarman’s At Your Own Risk at filmmaker Mike Christie’s flat in East London, visitors will say, ‘That book changed my life.’ Christie can trump them. One afternoon in summer 1991, sat around an oil drum doubling as a tea table at the back of Jarman’s sacred Dungeness outpost, Prospect Cottage, Mike first tabled the idea for the book. Satisfying a two-book deal that filmmaker, author and activist Jarman had with Penguin, it would combine recollections from the artist’s life etched onto a recent history of homosexuality. Christie is credited as Editor. ‘Which is ironic,’ he chuckles, ‘given I can hardly spell. But it was the book I needed at that time, a vital manifesto. This was my night school; a condensed Gay Level…

A continuing trauma of the AIDS crisis is the denial of care. In the early years, this denial was physical: patients being refused treatment or considered pariahs; parents disowning their dying offspring. Today, this denial of care is mostly psychological, but it is brutal. Ignorance and stigma about an HIV+ status lead many to live veiled lives, unable to receive the support, empathy and empowerment they need and deserve. This veiled HIV+ life is prevalent across society, but it is particularly noticeable in the fashion industry. It is an industry that, for the past century, at least, has been a haven and safe place for queer humans. And yet, 40 years since the first reported cases of AIDS-related illnesses, fashion designers and creative directors living with HIV still feel unable to…

If you don’t know Karen Binns, then you just don’t know. She is a groundbreaking creative who, during the Eighties in NYC, ran the show. She was the best friend and muse of the late, great artist Jean-Michel Basquiat, regularly frequented the infamous Paradise Garage and, if that wasn’t enough, also ran the door of one of London’s most iconic clubs, Kinky Gerlinky. Quite simply, she is fashion royalty, working with various brands, such as London’s rising star Bianca Saunders, and musicians from Tori Amos to Kanye West. And throughout her stellar career, she has been one of the biggest champions of diversity and inclusion within our industry. I spoke to Queen Karen about her time in NYC when HIV/AIDS became prominent in the early Eighties, and the impact it…

We haven’t stopped dancing yet

Since the mid-Eighties, Simon Foxton has worked as a pioneer stylist and fashion editor who has bridged the gap between street culture and high fashion. When it comes to casting, clothing and creativity, his vision was, and always will be, democratic, colourful, singular and sexy. From muddied men dressed as Minotaurs to hunks in babydoll dresses, his incendiary work is still just as startling and provocative and continues to resonate far and wide. During his time as Fashion Director at seminal i-D magazine – a title he shared with the late, lamented Judy Blame – the magazine launched The Positive Issue (January 1992). With Neneh Cherry as cover star and a free condom inside, it stood as a bold statement about HIV/AIDS at a time when mainstream media was still struggling…

We haven’t stopped dancing yet

In the study of her Brooklyn home, Ana Matronic keeps a special shelf above her desk for volumes on the history of disco. Anticipating her ambassadorial role for the forthcoming V&A Dundee exhibition, Night Fever: Designing Club Culture, she has been brushing up on the classics. She recently polished off The Fabulous Sylvester, Joshua Gamson’s definitive biography of the vanguard disco pioneer. Sylvester played their final ace in the pack best, specifying from their deathbed the make-up artist who would dress their corpse, at 41. In Tim Lawrence’s Life and Death on the New York Dance Floor, Ana noted a rumour that the patients who died earliest from AIDS were referred to as The Saints, in honour of their favoured East Village, Manhattan nightclub. ‘Probably not true,’ she says. But…

There’s a slow-burn ballad on John Grant’s fifth album, Boy From Michigan, that tackles shame head on. Over delicate piano and a sinister synth rumble, Grant’s careworn, honey-and-leather vocals pull the listener close before unleashing a cold, hard slap: ‘We’ll shun the ones who do not get the Christian diseases,’ he croons as the epic The Only Baby picks at American power structures. ‘The Christian diseases are the ones it’s OK for the Christians to get, while it’s clear that HIV is a punishment from God because we’re beyond redemption for what we’ve done,’ Grant, 52, explains from his living room in Iceland. He yanks at his grey-flecked beard, which, paired with his green flannel shirt, gives him the air of any other crumpled male singer-songwriter of a certain age who’s…

In 2018, Matthew Lopez debuted his epic work ‘The Inheritance’, a seven-hour ensemble piece split into two separate plays about the first generation of gay men who emerged after AIDS. Directed by Stephen Daldry and garlanded with awards, ‘The Inheritance’ quickly transferred to the West End, then Broadway. In that same year, the Instagram account The AIDS Memorial was set up to form a patchwork obituaries column on the social media portal, to honour those lost to the disease, by the people who knew them. Numbering almost 200,000 followers, it is run from home by a Scotsman who prefers to be known only by his first name, Stuart, in order to preserve the focus of the account on those who passed. Across wildly different media, Matthew and Stuart have become…

Eazy-E was a trailblazer. From the late Eighties on, he shaped a whole new world of music, popularising hip-hop as a medium for gritty reality and storytelling at a time when boogie and groove music were declining in popularity. Known as ‘The Godfather of Gangsta Rap’, he was co-founder of the epochal rap collective NWA and Ruthless Records, and his name and entrepreneurship defined the Black cultural zeitgeist of the Eighties and Nineties US West Coast. His death in 1995 from AIDS-induced pneumonia was, to many, a shocking aberration – not the departure from this world expected of a pioneer of hip-hop’s toughest-talking genre. The perceived speed of his demise amplified the shock. It came just 30 days after his HIV/AIDS diagnosis at Cedars-Sinai Medical Center in LA, where he remained…

So, here we are…

The cum of someone living with HIV tastes the same as the cum of someone who’s not. I learned this while I was still in the closet; 23 years old, having moved to London a year prior, I’d started dating a boy I’d met on Tinder. He ran marathons and studied occupational therapy, and would get up early and leave the flat before I was awake most days. He had his shit together in ways that I didn’t, and was also HIV positive. Much of what I know about the virus today is framed in his image. As a child, HIV and AIDS were conditions I’d seldom seen beyond the context of news reports on its prevalence in developing countries. Later, I became aware of the crisis amongst queer folks, sex…

So, here we are…

The night that Holiday, the infectious lead single from Lil Nas X’s upcoming album, Montero, debuted, the artist checked himself into a hotel. It was November 2020, 18 months after Nas, born Montero Lamar Hill, released his country/hip-hop anthem Old Town Road, which took over the world and changed his life. Was he a one-hit wonder? Did he have what it took to make a full-length album? Was his past success a fluke? The world was anxious to find out. So was he. In fact, he was terrified. ‘The night before it came out, I was in my shower. I was like, “Oh God, I feel like I’m making a really bad decision,”’ he says, burying his face in his hands. ‘I was just like… “What’s happening?”’ To celebrate the track’s release, he…

Hair Cecilie Hildebrandt at Of Substance, using Maria Nila Make-up Anna Payne at Of Substance, using Shiseido Models Adamu at Next Models, Shamil at Menace, William at Elite and Yiyan at Models 1 Casting Shelley Durkan at Bryant Artists Stylist’s assistant Kit Swann Set design David Curtis-Ring Set design assistant Ian Cy Production KO Collective…

What does it take to be among a handful of the best people in the world at something? By definition, most of us will never know. But what it takes to be among the very best in the world at something that is every young man’s dream is a whole other story. Whether it’s a ‘gift’ or a result of discipline, hard work and that almost-indefinable quality we call talent, the range of things that have to coincide for you to become one of the best football players in the world is staggering, when you think about it. Neymar Jr is already a legend in his own time: the second-highest goal scorer ever for the Brazilian national team, behind only someone called Pelé. The most expensive player of all time and…

The BLUE BEGGARS

‘I want to expose the parts of myself you’re not seeing on the face of some model boy,’ the poet and model Sonny Hall says over a recent video chat, in between puffs on a cigarette. Hall, who’s posed in campaigns for several major fashion houses, looks like the front man for an Eighties post-punk band, with bedroom eyes and toothy grins on a cherubic face that belies the hard partying of his early adolescence. It’s likely that Anne Sexton, the chain-smoking, Pulitzer-winning poet, wouldn’t be displeased to see herself name-checked in one of Hall’s poems, or that any number of sexually fluid Beat poets, another influence, would be eager to seduce him. Like his inspirations – which run the gamut from Tupac Shakur to Sylvia Plath – South London-born Hall…

The BLUE BEGGARS

Who can we be when we see each other? For the past 14 months, we have joined a global community of people who have been relegated to their homes in the interest of public ‘safety’. A sprinkling of stay-at-home orders, sheltering in place, orders to ‘lock down’ and state-enforced curfews have become a way of life. That said, many still commute, still engage in paid and unpaid labour, and still are held accountable to the essential work of survival. No matter where you fall on this vast spectrum, we still see each other. As the poet Paul Laurence Dunbar writes in ‘We Wear The Mask’, ‘We wear the mask that grins and lies, It hides our cheeks and shades our eyes, This debt we pay to human guile, With torn…

‘Don’t let anyone tell you what you can’t do.’ These uplifting words of Gen Z-representing wisdom come from the mouth of Miles George Daniel. Should anyone be looking for evidence that the roadblocks thrown up by the pandemic haven’t stifled creativity, take a look at these pages. This is a ‘zero-spend’ collection made alone, with no money – and plenty to tell us about the state of play. Which its maker might well have draped, knotted, wrapped, stitched, pinned and shape-shifted into something else by now. Who is Miles George Daniel? Good question. He’s the prolific author of clothes, illustrations, hoods and face wraps, graffiti and music – a kind of clothes-sculptor-slash-performance-artist. Underneath that, he’s a 26-year-old class-of-2020 graduate of Middlesex University who woke up laptop viewers of London Fashion Week…

The main character

Hair Ali Pirzadeh at JAQ Management, using Schwarzkopf got2b Make-up Andrew Gallimore at Of Substance, using Boy de Chanel and Chanel Le Lift Lotion Models Auden at SUPA Model Management, Ben at XDIRECTN and Leo Comanescu at Chapter Management Photo assistants Gabor Herczegfalvi, Giorgio Lattanzi and Daniele Roversi Hair assistant Tommy Stayton Make-up assistant Faye Bluff Stylist’s assistants Kit Swann and Poppy Norton Set designer Rory Mullen Set design assistants Peter Eason Daniels and Campbell Mcconnell Casting Shelley Durkan at Bryant Artists Production KO Collective…

The main character

REVOLUTION of LOVE

‘I need to be COMPLETELY IMMERSED in what the FIGHT is, what the MEAL is, the OUTFIT is,’ says MODEL, MUSICIAN and ACTIVIST YVES MATHIEU. ‘If I’m not all about it then I’m not going to do it.’ Based in Brooklyn, Mathieu runs on adrenaline. That’s why he travelled to Black Lives Matter protests in 26 US states last year (he was arrested 12 times). And how he amassed the tattoos that cover 90 per cent of his body. Or why he throws himself into philanthropic pursuits like ‘buying wigs, lashes and make-up for trans kids in shelters’. He plays bingo with old people and trains abused and abandoned dogs to make them adoption-ready. (‘Pit bulls are treated like a menace due to stereotyping,’ he says. ‘People do that with…

REVOLUTION of LOVE

Carlota Barrera From sun-drenched Spain to the streets of London, Carlota Barrera is making her mark on the British fashion industry. From loosely cut pieces to elongated tailoring, her menswear is sharp, understated and fuss-free. Drawing from the fluid lines of the male body, Barrera captures a wear-anywhere essence in her pieces, and her queer female gaze blends a new wave of masculinity, pairing a tomboy vibe with a timeless attitude. Her approach to artisanal skill is nonchalant: finding joy in ‘little details’, transforming the rigour of traditional tailoring into a more relaxed wardrobe with hidden tweaks. Barrera, who graduated with an MA from the London College of Fashion in 2017, makes achingly simple clothing that, for AW21, wholeheartedly embraced genderless fluidity. ‘I launched the label with [the] goal [of making] our…

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