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100 Articles

Welcome…to The Beginner’s Guide to Crochet! Whether you’ve never picked up a crochet hook before, or you learned to crochet long ago but haven’t tried since, this book will help you to discover (or rediscover!) the basics of these wonderfully versatile crafts. Crochet is a fantastic way to create your own accessories, as well as toys for children, stylish clothes, beautiful homewares and fab gifts for all the family. It’s quick, easy and convenient: all you need is a hook and a ball of yarn! Armed with these, you can get creative wherever you are – at home, on the bus, in a café… It’s no wonder many people find it addictive! We’ll walk you through every step with clear instructions and pictures, from choosing which yarn and hook you use to…

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The world of yarn is huge, and one of the joys of crochet is using different types of yarn – there are many fibres, thicknesses, textures and colours of yarn, each one more beautiful than the next! Note that crocheters (and knitters!) call it ‘yarn’: the word ‘wool’ specifically means the fibre spun from a sheep’s coat. When it comes to deciding on the yarn you need, size does matter. Yarn comes in different weights, or thicknesses, from the finest 1ply lace to the widely-used DK yarn, up to thick super-chunky yarns. The yarn thickness will affect the look, feel and weight of your crocheted fabric. You’ll always get the best results if you use the yarn quoted in a specific pattern, although as you gain confidence, you’ll find it’s fairly…

Crochet threads Numbered from 3 to 100, these threads are not classed as yarns. They are specially made for fine crochet work, including lace making and filet crochet. Made from mercerised cotton, the higher the number, the finer the thread (no 10 is shown below). You may need a hook from the steel range (see p12) to work them. Embroidery thread As well as specialist crochet threads, you can also crochet with embroidery threads, from stranded cottons to the finest silk threads. 1, 2 & 3ply Essentially one strand, or two or three strands of yarn twisted together, these are great for making delicate lace shawls and baby garments. Usually, 2ply yarn is worked with a 2-3½mm hook. 4ply This is a favourite weight for baby clothes, motifs and lightweight jumpers and cardigans. Double…

A ball band is the piece of paper wrapped around the yarn, where the manufacturers put all the information about the yarn. Have a look at the annotations below to see what it all means. It’s a good idea to keep your ball bands to refer back to when you wash a garment, or if you decide to crochet the same pattern again.…

HOOKS AND TOOLS

HOOK SIZES Crochet hooks come in all sizes, shapes and materials. But all you really need from a hook is that it’s fairly short, thin, smooth and strong enough to enable you to turn yarn into the stitches used to make crocheted fabric. Of course, things aren’t quite that straightforward. You also need to think about the different yarn fibres you’ll be working with, your stitch tension, personal preferences, and the fact that no one hook will work for all the projects you’ll want to make, so it’s a good idea to invest in a set of several hooks. The first thing you need to know about crochet hooks is that they come in different sizes or thicknesses, just like yarn comes in different thicknesses. It’s important to use the appropriate size of…

HOOKS AND TOOLS

Modern crochet hooks are usually made of aluminium, steel, plastic, bamboo or wood. Below are some of the hook types you’ll come across and what they’re best used for. Collect hooks of different types for different uses. The most commonly used crochet hook is the simple, straight hook. Examples of this sort of hook have been around for hundreds of years. They’re easy to use, with the hook at the end helping to pull loops of yarn through other loops of yarn, to form fabric. The fabric can be flat or tubular. You’ll only ever work with one loop of yarn, so crochet hooks don’t need to be any larger than your hand. Crochet hooks come in a standard length of 15cm, although you can also find them in 20cm and…

FOLLOWING A PATTERN

You’ll find that different crochet patterns can look very different, depending on which magazine, book, online publication or blog it appears on. All these different components can look quite confusing, with what seems like a secret code that needs to be cracked before you can crochet! Don't worry, though – everything is really quite simple. Below are the key elements that should appear on every pattern and what they mean. It’s a good idea to take the time to read through a pattern before you pick up your hook and yarn. A thorough read of the pattern will give you an idea of the techniques involved and how any separate crocheted pieces will fit together to create the final item. Make sure you've got everything you need before you start, and…

FOLLOWING A PATTERN

Amigurumi The Japanese art of cute crochet toys: ‘ami’ means crocheted and ‘nuigurumi’ means stuffed doll. Ball band The wrapper around a ball, skein or hank of yarn that includes useful information on that yarn. Ball end of yarn The end of the yarn that runs from the stitch on your hook back to the ball of yarn being used. Ball winder A device for winding yarn hanks into balls to be used for crochet. A winder is often used with a swift. Blocking Shaping a piece of crochet once it’s finished by pinning it out flat while it’s damp and letting it dry. Cable A motif created by crossing crochet stitches over each other. Designs can look like twisted ropes, hence the name. Chain The loops that you create by passing one loop of yarn through another, using a crochet hook. Chain space The…

At first glance, you might think crochet patterns are written in another language. And they sort of are, but it’s a simple language to understand. Patterns use a set of abbreviations that are sensible ways to shorten the description of techniques that you’ll do regularly. For example, double crochet is abbreviated to dc. These letters are often accompanied by a number that relates to the stitches. For example, 4dc means ‘double crochet 4 stitches’. This system creates a shorthand that makes patterns shorter and simpler. If all the instructions were written in full, some patterns would run to dozens of pages. We’ll have more on specific abbreviations in later chapters, once you start learning the techniques and practising them by making our simple projects. But if you see an abbreviation you don’t…

START CROCHETING HERE

Crochet really is easy when you know how, and this chapter will help you get to grips with the basics, with clear, step-by-step instructions for all the main techniques. With a bit of practice, you’ll find that crochet is a fun and simple way to create cosy fabrics for all sorts of items, from fashion to homewares. All you need to get started is a quiet place, where you won’t be disturbed, and about an hour. You’ll also need a hook and some yarn. Anything you can get your hands on should be fine, although we recommend you use a smooth acrylic or wool yarn, either DK weight with a 4mm hook, or aran weight with a 5mm hook to start. The important thing to remember is that every crocheter is different,…

START CROCHETING HERE

Grab a 4mm or 5mm hook and practise holding it. If you’re right-handed, hold it in your right hand; if you’re left-handed, use your left hand. If your hook has a flat area, hold it here. Try not to grip the hook too tightly – aim for your hand to feel relaxed. Try out both the pen and knife methods of holding the hook, shown below. Some people find the pen grip enables their movements to be more fluid and to crochet more quickly, while others find the knife grip gives them more control. See what feels more natural. If neither (or both!) work for you, just find a way that does. RIGHT-HAND LEFT-HAND…

MAKE A SLIPKNOT

When you get down to the basics, crochet is just a series of loops, all pulled through one another to create a fabric. The first loop is a slipknot, so it’s important to get it right. But don’t worry, it’s not hard, and you may even have made them before. Take your time and practise a little bit – it will pay off in the end. Sit down with your hook and yarn, and practise making slipknots. Make sure you leave a fairly long tail of yarn at the end, approximately 10cm (4in) long. This way, you can be sure it won’t unravel and it will be easier to weave into your fabric at the end. You don’t need to pull your slipknot too tight once it’s on the hook –…

MAKE A SLIPKNOT

The above method is just one way you can use to make a slipknot – there are plenty of other ways to do it, so if you have trouble with the method above and find that it doesn’t work for you, don’t give up! Just find a method that does. Some crocheters prefer to wrap the yarn around the index finger and then pull a second loop of yarn through the loop on their finger. Other crocheters prefer to lay the yarn on a flat surface and form the looped structure here before inserting the hook. You can find step-by-step guides to these techniques, and many more, on the internet. Just type ‘crochet slipknot’ into any search engine to find various methods to try – you’re bound to find one that…

When you start to crochet, you’ll quickly see that it’s important to be able to work with an even tension in your work. This means the yarn needs to be able to unwind easily from the ball while you’re working with it. At the same time, the yarn needs to have enough tension for the hook to be able to pick it up easily when making the stitches. For most crocheters, the easiest way to achieve this is to wind the yarn around your fingers in some way, so that you can both hold it firmly and release it slowly. If you’re right-handed, weave the yarn around your left hand; if you’re left-handed, weave the yarn around your right hand. We’ve suggested two methods here (shown below), but you can find your…

CONTROL THE YARN

RIGHT-HAND While you’re crocheting, you will need to control the crochet loop with the same hand as the one that’s holding the yarn. When making your first chain stitches (see overleaf), right-handers should hold the tail end of the yarn firmly between the thumb and index finger of your left hand, or the thumb and middle finger. Doing this enables you to control the position of the working loop on the hook as the hook moves in and out of the working loop. The hook should be around 3-5cm from the index finger of your right hand when you are crocheting. LEFT-HAND While you’re crocheting, you will need to control the crochet loop with the same hand as the one that’s holding the yarn. When making your first chain stitches (see overleaf), left-handers…

CONTROL THE YARN

One of the most important techniques you need to learn in crochet is making chain stitches. No matter what crochet project you’re working on, you will always need to make chains. Fortunately, they’re also the easiest stitch to work in crochet. Follow our guide (below and right) to make chain stitches, which are also called chains or a chain length. Practise the technique by making a length of about 20 chains (don’t count the slipknot as a stitch). Hold the stitches firmly, just below the hook, moving your fingers up the chain as you go. Keep making short chains like this until you can make chain stitches that are even in size and shape, and the whole process feels quite natural. Don’t worry if your chains look a bit uneven when you…

FOUNDATION CHAINS

You’ll use chain stitches in various places when you’re crocheting, but one of the key areas is to make foundation chains. For most crochet projects, you’ll start off by making a length of chain stitches, which is called a foundation chain. You’ll then need to work your crochet stitches back along the chain length to create your first row of stitches – add more rows of stitches and you’ll make crochet fabric! The original chain length is called a foundation chain because it’s the foundation of your project.…

FOUNDATION CHAINS

Once you can make chains, it’s a good idea to get to know your chain length better. To be able to work stitches into a chain length, or follow a crochet pattern, you need to be able to count your chains and understand which part of the chain is which. Once you can do this, the world of crochet patterns will be your oyster! You’ll see below that the front of a chain length has a neat series of v-shaped stitches (see below left), while the back has a row of bumps along the row of chains. You can either work your crochet stitches into the front or back of the chain length (we’ll have more about this on page 33 as each has advantages and disadvantages). When you’re crocheting from…

CHAIN STITCH NECKLACE

YOU WILL NEED YARN ▪ Rico Essentials Crochet Print (100% cotton, 50g/280m) 1 ball of Red Mix (002)▪ Rico Essentials Crochet Cotton (100% cotton, 50g/280m) 1 ball of each: Red (004) Pink (029) Pastel Pink (028) HOOK ▪ A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook NOTIONS ▪ 2 end caps, 1cm size▪ Super glue▪ 2 lengths of linked metal chain with fastenings TENSION AND SIZE Tension is not critical for this project. Necklace measures approx 52cm (20½in) long ABBREVIATIONS For a full list see page 18 NOTES Necklace is worked in multiple lengths of chains which are secured into the jewellery end caps. If you don’t want to use end caps, you could simply work several chains to the length you desire and secure them with a slip stitch, or twist them and sew the ends together. NECKLACE CHAINS (MAKE 24) In each shade, make 6 lengths of chain approx…

CHAIN STITCH NECKLACE

JOINING Slip stitch is a very useful technique in your crochet repertoire. It has a variety of uses, but it’s most regularly used as a joining stitch for working in the round, like this. It can also be used to join together one part of the crochet fabric to another part, or for creating shaping. Slip stitch is abbreviated as ‘ss’ or ‘sl st’. EDGING Slip stitch is also handy for creating a narrow edging on another fabric, as shown right. You can also use the stitch if you need to move your crochet hook to another part of the fabric because the stitch is very small. It can also be used as a stitch, worked in rows, but it has almost no height so it creates a very dense fabric and is…

MAKE A SLIP STITCH

You can make a slip stitch into any chain or stitch that you want to. A slip stitch will neatly join the working loop on the hook with the stitch that you’ve inserted the hook into – great for making loops and lacy fabrics. To practise working a slip stitch, make a short chain length and follow the instructions below. Once you’ve practised making slip stitches, you’ll see how easy and handy the technique can be for joining one area of your crochet fabric to another. Slip stitches are also essential for creating foundation rings when you’re working in the round (more on this from page 52). They are also very useful for making granny squares, as you will need to move from one part of the square to another without…

MAKE A SLIP STITCH

DOUBLE CROCHET FABRIC

Once you’ve learned to make chains, you’ll be able to work some crochet stitches into them. The double crochet stitch (called single crochet in the US) is usually the first stitch that crocheters learn. It’s quick and easy, and there are plenty of patterns that use nothing else. The double crochet is a small, short stitch that creates a dense fabric with almost no gaps. The resulting fabric is usually quite thick, firm and warm, so it’s a great stitch for winter accessories. It’s also useful for items that need a firm shape, such as amigurumi toys and homewares. Try making small squares for dishcloths or you can use larger ones for cushions. Crocheters often describe the specific patterned effect created on the crochet fabric as a ‘stitch pattern’. If you work…

DOUBLE CROCHET FABRIC

WORK INTO CHAINS

Now you’re ready to work double crochet stitches into your chain length. We’ve suggested two methods (below) for doing this. You might find that one suits you better than the other, so try both to find out. How tightly you crochet will affect which one you prefer to an extent, and you may use different methods for different projects. Some patterns will ask you to insert the hook under one loop of the chain rather than two, and this can work well if your chain is a bit tight. If the stitches of the foundation chain are too tight to work into easily, undo it and rework it using a larger hook. Then switch back to the smaller hook to work the stitches of the pattern. You’ll find that Method 2 below…

WORK INTO CHAINS

DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH

Double crochet is the easiest and most important stitch to learn. Once you master it, everything else is simple! Practise making a foundation chain – 22 chains is a good number, using DK yarn and a 4mm hook. Then make one more chain (this will be your turning chain, which is explained on page 37). For now, ignore this extra chain and work a double crochet stitch into the second chain from the hook (either into the front of the chain or into the bump on the back of the chain). Work a double crochet into each chain, holding the chain firmly, just below the hook, moving your fingers up the chain as you go. Work from right to left if you’re right-handed, or left to right if you’re left-handed.…

DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH

HOW TO COUNT STITCHES

Being able to count your stitches is vital and helps you to make sure that you’re following a pattern correctly. It’s a good idea to count your stitches at the end of every row, especially after the first row of stitches worked into your foundation chain. To count short stitches such as double crochet, it’s usually easier to look at the plaited tops of the stitches (see above), rather than the v-shape side of the stitch. For your practice foundation chain, if you made 22 chains (plus one turning chain) as suggested above, you should now be able to count 22 dc stitches on your chain.…

HOW TO COUNT STITCHES

DOUBLE CROCHET ROWS

Once you’ve got started, the subsequent rows of double crochet are just as easy as the first row. All you need to do is turn your fabric, work the turning chain (see below right for more) and then work a stitch into the top of each stitch on the row below. This is just as easy as working stitches into chains. The only extra technique you need to know is turning chains (see below right for info). In double crochet rows, you don’t count the turning chain (t-ch) as a stitch and you don’t work a double crochet stitch into the top of the turning chain of the previous row. Have a practice and you’ll soon get the hang of it. The more rows you work, the larger your piece of double…

DOUBLE CROCHET ROWS

After each row of double crochet stitches, you need to turn the fabric and work the turning chain (this is abbreviated as t-ch). The picture (right) shows the work turned and ready to work the t-ch (one chain for double crochet) – the numbers show where to work the dc stitches of the second row. So what’s a turning chain? In crochet, you need to make a t-ch at the start of every row to bring the hook up to the working height of the stitches in the next row. You usually do this at the start of a row, but it was traditionally worked at the end of the row, hence its name. Different stitches need a different length of t-ch. When working dc fabric, you can largely just ignore the…

When you first start to crochet, it’s very easy to work into the wrong part of the stitch on the row below until you get used to it. You’ll have seen by now that each stitch forms a neat ‘v’ shape at the top. Usually, you insert the hook under both strands of yarn that form that v-shape at the top. This stitch anatomy is important to understand because sometimes a pattern will ask you to insert the hook under just one of these strands and work a stitch. If you’re asked to work into the ‘front loop’, this is the part of the v-shape that’s closest to you while working the new row. The ‘back loop’ is the strand of yarn that’s farthest from you (see below). If the pattern…

DOUBLE CROCHET FRILL

YOU WILL NEED YARN ▪ Wendy, Supreme Luxury Cotton DK (100% mercerised cotton, 100g/201m), approx 30g of Cream (1851) HOOK ▪ A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook NOTIONS ▪ Three 15mm buttons ▪ Needle and matching thread TENSION AND SIZE Tension is not critical for this project. Finished size 12.5x7.5cm (5x3in) ABBREVIATIONS For a full list see page 18 MAIN PIECE Ch90. Row 1 (RS) Dc into the second ch from the hook, dc into each ch to end, turn. [89 sts] Row 2 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, dc into each st to end, turn. Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in the same st, *ch1, skip the next st, dc into the next st; repeat from * to end, turn. Row 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in the same st, *dc into the…

DOUBLE CROCHET FRILL

FASTEN OFF & WEAVE IN

After all your crochet efforts, it’s worth taking the time to finish your work properly, so that it doesn’t unravel on you! Once you’ve worked the last stitch in a pattern, you’ll be instructed to ‘fasten off’. Follow the steps below to safely pull the yarn tail through the final loop and secure it. You’ll then be left with a 15cm (6in) tail end of yarn here, and also at the start of your project, where you made the slipknot. These ends will look rather straggly unless you do something with them. To create a neat finish, patterns will instruct you to ‘weave in ends’. This simply involves weaving yarn ends through the backs of stitches on the wrong side of your work, using a large-eyed needle with a blunt tip. There are…

FASTEN OFF & WEAVE IN

TREBLE CROCHET FABRIC

After double crochet, the next stitch you’ll need to know is treble crochet (called double crochet in the US). It’s perhaps the most-used stitch in crochet, because it forms a fabric with just the right qualities: fairly dense and warm but not too stiff, with a lovely drape. A treble crochet stitch is twice as high as a double crochet stitch, so the fabric grows quickly. The stitches sit fairly close together, but they’re not as densely packed as double crochet stitches. This means that treble crochet fabric has small gaps, which allows it to drape more easily. It’s still warm enough for winter makes, yet it’s also breathable enough for summer makes. Make a swatch and you’ll soon see why treble crochet is used for so many projects – it’s…

TREBLE CROCHET FABRIC

TREBLE INTO CHAINS

Start practising trebles by working a foundation chain (try 24 chains) and then use one of the methods below to work your first treble stitch into the foundation chain. One method might suit you better so try both. Make sure you insert the hook under two loops of the chain stitch (the top front loop and the loop at the back of the chain). Some patterns ask you to insert the hook under just the top front loop of the chain, and you can also use this method if your chain is a bit tight. However, if your chain is very tight and hard to get your hook into, undo it and rework it using a larger hook. Then switch back to the smaller hook to work the following rows. You’ll find…

TREBLE INTO CHAINS

TREBLE CROCHET STITCH

Once you have a foundation chain made of 24 chains and you’ve inserted the hook (with yarn wrapped round) into the 4th chain from the hook, you can make your first treble stitch (see how to do it below). It’s just as easy as double crochet, there are just a few more ‘yrh’s to do as you go! Work a treble crochet stitch into each chain, holding the stitches firmly, just below the hook, moving your fingers up the chain as you go. Don’t worry if it looks uneven – keep going to the end of the chain (don’t work into the slipknot). Once you’ve completed the first row of trebles (often called the foundation row), follow our guide (below right) to count your stitches – you should have 22 stitches. The…

TREBLE CROCHET STITCH

HOW TO COUNT STITCHES

Being able to count your stitches is vital and helps you to make sure that you’re following a pattern correctly. It’s a good idea to count your stitches at the end of every row, especially after the first row of stitches worked into your foundation chain. To count tall stitches such as treble crochet, it’s usually easiest to look at the tall ‘stem’ of the stitches (see above), rather than the v-shaped top of the stitch. If you made 24 chains (21 chains plus 3 turning chains), you should now have 22 treble stitches.…

HOW TO COUNT STITCHES

When you work crochet stitches, you’ll see that each one has a different height: double crochet stitches are very small, while treble stitches are fairly tall. So, when you reach the end of a row of stitches, you need a way to get the hook up to the right height to work the next row of stitches. The answer is turning chains. By adding a short chain length, known as turning chains (abbreviated as t-ch), you can create a fake first stitch at the beginning of the new row. Then the hook will be in the right place to work the rest of the stitches in the row. You need to work a t-ch at the beginning of every row in crochet (unless a pattern states otherwise). Since each crochet stitch is…

TENSION SQUARES

For great results from your crocheting, it’s important to make sure that you are working to the correct tension. The tension you need to work to is usually stated in a crochet pattern, and a yarn’s typical tension is usually on its ball band. Before starting any project, it’s a good idea to make a small square with the yarn, often called a tension square or swatch. Some crocheters see this as a chore, but it’s vital if you want a garment that fits well and looks fantastic. If your tension is too tight, your item will be smaller than the designer intended; if your tension is too loose, you’ll find that the item is too big. HOW TO MAKE A SQUARE To make a sample square to check your tension or gauge…

TENSION SQUARES

TREBLE CROCHET ROWS

After the first row of treble crochet stitches, the following rows are just as easy. All you need to do is turn your fabric, work the turning chain (see below right for more) and then work a stitch into the top of each stitch on the row below. This is just as easy as working stitches into chains. The only extra technique you’ll need to know is turning chains (see below right for more). In treble crochet rows, you need to count the turning chain (t-ch) as a stitch and at the end of the row, work a treble crochet stitch into the top of the turning chain of the row below. Have a practice and you’ll soon get the hang of how it works. The more rows you make, the larger…

TREBLE CROCHET ROWS

TREBLE STITCH SCARF

YOU WILL NEED YARN ▪ Rico Essentials Cotton DK (100% cotton, 50g/130m), 1 ball of Dark Teal (40) HOOK ▪ A 4mm (US G/6) hook TENSION AND SIZE Tension is not critical for this project. Finished size approx 4.5x124cm (or make it to the length you wish) SKINNY SCARF Chain 10. Row 1 Double crochet into the second chain from the hook, double crochet across, turn. [9 double crochets] Row 2 Chain 3 (counts as treble throughout), 2 treble, chain 1, skip 1 stitch, treble into the next stitch, chain 1, skip 1 stitch, 3 treble, turn. [7 trebles, 2 chain-1 spaces] Row 3 As row 2. Row 4 Chain 3, treble into each stitch across, turn. [9 trebles] Row 5 As row 4. Repeat Rows 2-5 until the tie scarf measures approximately 124cm, ending with a Row 3. Final row As row 1. Fasten off…

TREBLE STITCH SCARF

FOUNDATION RINGS

These are the three most-used foundation rings (right). If you’re working from a pattern, it should tell you which type of ring to make. The result you get might differ if you use a different ring, so it’s often best to make the ring stated in the pattern. Once you gain more experience with foundation rings, you’ll have the confidence to use the method you like best and the one you know will suit the item you’re making. BASIC RING The easiest foundation ring to crochet involves joining 4-6 chains using a slip stitch. This method creates a small hole at the centre of the first round. See page 54. CHAIN LOOP An alternative foundation ring method, which creates a small hole at the centre. Best used when you have a small number of stitches…

FOUNDATION RINGS

ALL ABOUT… ROUNDS

Once you can crochet in rows, it’s easy to crochet in the round. There’s no special equipment needed and only a few simple rules to remember – we’ll explain all of these in this chapter. Being able to crochet in the round means you can create seamless circular fabrics and tackle a world of possible projects, including granny squares, hats and amigurumi toys. The biggest difference between rounds of crochet and rows of crochet is how you get started. When you crochet in rows, you start with a foundation chain, but for rounds, you start with a foundation ring. There are various ways to make a foundation ring to crochet in the round – we’ll show you how to do the three most popular methods (summarised below). You can find other methods…

ALL ABOUT… ROUNDS

DIFFERENT FABRIC When you work in the round, you usually need to work with the right side of the fabric facing you all the time, so your stitches will always be created on the same, right side. This means the fabric you create with your stitches in the round will look different to the fabric worked with the same stitches in rows. The fronts of the stitches will be facing you on every row of the right side of the fabric, while the wrong side of the fabric will show all the backs of the stitches. ROUNDS LIKE ROWS Crochet in the round is similar to crochet in rows – make a turning chain at the start of every round, work stitches into the tops of the stitches on the previous round, then…

When you want to crochet stitches in the round, you need to make a special sort of foundation chain, usually called a foundation ring. There are many ways to do this, but below is the most common method. This involves making a short chain (such as ch4 or ch6) and then joining the first and last chains together with a slip stitch (see page 31 for a reminder). Different patterns will ask you to make a different length of chain: ch4 or ch6 are the most common so practise with these. When you make the chain length, don’t count the loop on the hook or the slipknot, and don’t mistake the slipknot for the first chain. Be careful not to twist the chain when you insert the hook for the slip…

DOUBLE CROCHET ROUNDS

Once you have a foundation ring, you can make your first round of stitches. We’ll show you how to work the first round in double crochet below (see overleaf for treble crochet). The rules for working in the round are simple, although some patterns differ, so always follow the instructions in the pattern you’re using. Whether you’re using doubles, trebles, or other stitches, you’ll need to make a turning chain at the start of each round (see page 46 for more about turning chains). Then you can work the stitches of that round. At the end of every round, join the last stitch to the first stitch using a slip stitch (we’ll show you how below). On the first round of a long foundation ring, work each stitch into each chain as…

DOUBLE CROCHET ROUNDS

HOW TO WORK MORE ROUNDS

After you finish the first round of double crochet stitches, your ring should look like something this (see right). You can see that when you use the basic ring method, you end up with a small hole at the centre of your motif. To work the next round(s), make the turning chain (1ch for double crochet), then work the stitches into the tops of the stitches on the first round below, just as you do when you work in rows. To make a flat shape, like this flower (see far right), you’ll be asked to increase stitches (more on this later). At the end of each round, join to the first stitch with a slip stitch.…

HOW TO WORK MORE ROUNDS

TREBLE CROCHET ROUNDS

Once you’ve mastered double crochet in the round, try treble crochet in the round. Make a basic ring and then follow our guide below to work the first round of trebles. With treble crochet, you’ll need to make a 3-ch turning chain at the start of every round (see page 46 for more details about turning chains). Then you can work the stitches of that round. At the end of every round, join the last stitch to the first stitch using a slip stitch (we’ll show you how in the photos below). On the first round of a long foundation ring, work a stitch into each chain as usual. On the first round of a small ring, it’s better to work the stitches into the gap at the centre of the ring,…

TREBLE CROCHET ROUNDS

Most patterns worked in the round use the basic foundation ring method. But the chain loop method is a good alternative that you might prefer – we’ll show you how to do it below. You might find it a little fiddly to start with, but once you get the hang of it, you’ll find that it can be a quicker method to use than the basic ring. The chain loop ring involves making just two chains and then working the first round of stitches into the first chain. Remember not to count the loop on the hook and don’t mistake the slipknot for the first chain. When you work the first stitch into the chain loop, be careful not to twist the chain. The finished chain loop ring has a much smaller…

HOW TO WORK MORE ROUNDS

After the first round of double crochet stitches, your chain loop ring should look like this (see right). You can see that this method leaves a smaller hole at the centre than the basic foundation ring method (see far right). To work the next round(s), work in the same way as you would with the next rounds for the basic foundation ring: make the turning chain, then work the stitches into the tops of the stitches on the first round. At the end of each round, slip stitch the last stitch to the first stitch.…

HOW TO WORK MORE ROUNDS

The magic loop method is another way to start working in the round. It’s particularly popular for making toys – we’ll show you how to do it below. You might need to practise it a few times to get the hang of it, but you’ll soon learn to love it! The magic loop method (also called the drawstring loop) involves making a simple loop of yarn and then working your first round of stitches into that loop. You don’t need to make a slipknot with this method and you can work as many stitches into the ring on the first round as you need to. After working the last stitch of the first round, you simply pull on the tail end of the yarn to tighten the loop, as if by…

HOW TO WORK MORE ROUNDS

After the first round of double crochet stitches, your magic loop should look like this (see right). You can see that this method leaves no hole at the centre, compared to the basic foundation ring method (see far right). To work the next round(s), work in the same way as you would with the next rounds for the basic ring: make the turning chain, then work stitches into the tops of the stitches on the first round. At the end of each round, slip stitch the last stitch to the first stitch.…

HOW TO WORK MORE ROUNDS

FORGET-ME-KNOT CARD

YOU WILL NEED YARN ▪ DMC Petra 5 (100% cotton, 100g/280m), 1 ball of each: blue (54518) and yellow (5745) HOOK ▪ A 2mm (US 4 steel) hook NOTIONS ▪ Tapestry needle▪ A6 cream card blank and envelope▪ Bone folder▪ Paper trimmer▪ Floral scrapbook paper measuring 9.5x14cm▪ Glue gun▪ Typewriter (or use American Typewriter/Courier New computer font on your computer)▪ Pink pearlescent card▪ Sharp craft scissors▪ Adhesive foam squares▪ Roll-on adhesive TENSION AND SIZE Tension is not critical for this project. Each flower meas 3cm (1in) diam ABBREVIATIONS 3-dtr cluster (Yrh twice, insert hook in space/st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, [yrh and draw through 2 loops] twice) 3 times, inserting the hook in the same space/st each time, yrh and draw through all loops on hook For a full list see page 18 FORGET-ME-NOT FLOWER (MAKE 5) With yellow, ch5, ss…

FORGET-ME-KNOT CARD

SIMPLE STRIPES Working rows of different colours will create simple stripe effects like this – a classic look that suits many different projects. In crochet, you always switch yarn colour at the end of a row, ready to work the new row in the new colour. We’ll show you how overleaf. On a large project, you can also use the same technique to join a new ball of the same yarn colour, when one ball runs out. WIDE OR NARROW Make your stripes as wide as you want them to be – experiment by crocheting a 2-row repeat, a 4-row repeat, a 6-row repeat, and so on. You can also play with combining different widths of stripes, mixing a 2-row stripe with a 6-row stripe, and so on. You don’t have to stick…

ALL ABOUT… COLOUR

There are many different ways to work with colour, ranging from simple stripes to more intricate patterns. The effects often look amazing, but they’re actually quite straightforward to create. Stripes are the easiest way to introduce different colours to your crochet and they’re one of the most popular effects. You simply introduce a new colour at the end of a row, ready to work the new row with the new colour. That doesn’t mean stripes are boring though – you can work your stripes as narrow or wide as you like, combine stripes of different widths, and use many different colours, to create a range of looks you’ll see on the high street. You can also achieve amazing effects by working stripes in the round. Using different colours in this way will…

ALL ABOUT… COLOUR

SIMPLE ROUNDS Working colour changes in the round can create some gorgeous, eye-popping effects. You can either change colour when you slip stitch the round closed, or fasten off each round and start again with a new colour (see both methods on pages 70 and 71). TENSION ISSUES When you’re using different colours of the same yarn in a design, this shouldn’t affect the tension of your work, so you don’t have to make a new tension square if you change colours. COLOUR CHOICE Be careful with your choice of yarn colour. Place the balls of yarn next to each other to make sure they work together. If you’re making a garment, place them next to your skin as well, to make sure they suit your skin tone. For a safe colour effect, use shades…

Whether you’re changing colour or your ball of yarn has run out, you can use the same simple technique to join in new yarn. Some crocheters just knot the old yarn to the new yarn and carry on crocheting. Others like to fasten off the old yarn and then knot a loop of the new yarn in place at the fabric edge. Both of these can create a bulky knot that might show on the right side or be annoying when you’re sewing up. The yarn-changing method we’ll show you below is easy and neat. The idea behind it is that you work the final yarn round hook action of the last stitch of the old row with the new yarn. This means you’ll instantly be ready to work the next row…

HOW TO CHANGE STITCH COLOUR

You can use the above technique to change the colour of rows, rounds or individual stitches. No matter which stitch you’re working, the principle is the same: join in the new colour on the final yrh of a stitch, so that the next stitch will be in the new colour. For double crochet (shown right), you would insert hook, yrh, pull loop through and stop. Then pull a loop of the new colour through the two loops, ready to work the next stitch. You’ll need to think ahead to where you want to start working with your new colour and switch to the new yarn in the stitch before that.…

HOW TO CHANGE STITCH COLOUR

COLOURFUL ROUNDS

When working in the round, you can create amazing colour effects by working different rounds in different shades – traditional granny squares are a great example of how this can work to eye-popping effect. When you’re working with rounds, it’s often better to fasten off each round and then join the new yarn colour by using the slipknot technique (shown below). This method is also handy when you’re working lacy motifs. There are some other ways to change yarn colour when you’re working in the round. You can also use the slip stitch technique (shown opposite at the bottom of the page). Each method creates a different look, so try them out and choose the one you think works best for each project you work on. In both methods, we’ve stated where to…

COLOURFUL ROUNDS

ALTERNATIVE METHOD

You can also change colour in the round by using the slip stitch technique. This method is best for dense motifs and works by using the new yarn to join the round together. After working the last stitch of a round, insert hook into the first stitch of the round (either the first dc or the top of the t-ch). Loop the new yarn around the hook, leaving a long tail 1. Pull the new yarn through both loops in the old yarn 2. Use the new yarn to work the new round. Cut off the old yarn, leaving a tail around 10cm long to weave in.…

ALTERNATIVE METHOD

See bottom of the page for how to use this chart YOU WILL NEED YARN ▪ Any yarn, in 6 colours Yarn shown is 100% cotton but you can use most yarns for this pattern HOOK ▪ Relevant size for your yarn, we used 4mm (US G/6) hook NOTIONS ▪ A pair of scissors ▪ A tapestry needle TENSION & SIZE Tension is not critical for this project. Our finished square meas approx 10x10cm (4x4in) ABBREVIATIONS For a full list see page 18 HOW TO MAKE THE SQUARE With Yarn A, make a slipknot and place it onto your hook. Ch6 and ss into the first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 Ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr into ring, ch2, (3tr into ring, ch2) three times, ss to top of beg ch-3, fasten off. Round 2 Join Yarn B in any corner ch-2 sp…

ALL ABOUT… SHAPING

The world of crochet would be a very different one without increases and decreases – all we’d be able to make would be flat, straight fabrics, such as squares and scarves. By learning simple shaping stitches, you can create all sorts of shapes, including garments. So what are increasing and decreasing stitches? And how do they change the shape of your crochet fabric? By now, you will have made a few squares or rectangles, working the same number of stitches on every row to keep the sides straight. If you work decrease stitches, you will reduce the number of stitches in a row and so narrow the width of the crochet fabric. Working increase stitches will add more stitches to a row and widen the fabric. Decreasing and increasing will create sloped…

ALL ABOUT… SHAPING

LEARN THE LINGO In a pattern, a simple increase of one double crochet stitch will be shown as ‘2dc in next stitch’. A larger increase of two stitches will be shown as ‘3dc in next stitch’ and so on. END OF ROW If you’re increasing at the end of the row, you will affect the outward slope of the left-hand side of the finished fabric. SLOPING SIDES If you increase at both ends of a row, you’ll widen the fabric on both sides and create outward-sloping sides. If you do this in double crochet on both sides, you can create a triangular shape, like this. START OF ROW If you’re increasing at the start of the row, you will affect the outward slope of the right-hand side of the finished fabric.…

LEARN THE LINGO Decrease stitches are especially useful in garments, when you need to shape armholes and necklines. In a pattern, a simple decrease of one treble stitch is called tr2tog (treble two stitches together). A larger decrease of two stitches is called tr3tog. END OF ROW If you’re decreasing at the end of the row, you will affect the inward slope of the left-hand side of the finished fabric. SLOPING SIDES If you decrease at both ends of a row, you’ll narrow the fabric on both sides and create inward-sloping sides. If you do this in treble crochet on both sides, you’ll create a triangular shape, like this. START OF ROW If you’re decreasing at the start of the row, you will affect the inward slope of the right-hand side of the finished fabric.…

DOUBLE CROCHET INCREASES

Working increases in crochet is very easy. There are no special techniques to learn, you just work more than one stitch into the top of the stitch on the row below. To increase one double crochet stitch in a row, just work two double crochet stitches into the same stitch on the row below, as instructed in your pattern. This will increase the stitch count by one. To increase the stitch count by two, you’d work three double crochet stitches into the one stitch, and so on. You can work an increase anywhere along the row, but working it in the centre of the row will make your crochet fabric look different to increasing at the start or end of a row. Similarly, increases worked on every row create a different effect…

DOUBLE CROCHET INCREASES

TREBLE INCREASES

Treble crochet increases are worked in the same sort of way as double crochet increases. You just work two or more treble stitches into the top of the same stitch on the row below. To increase one treble stitch in a row, work two trebles into the same stitch, or work more trebles as instructed in your pattern. To increase by two stitches, work three trebles into the same stitch, and so on for more increases. You can work the increase anywhere along the row, but working it in the centre of the row will create a different effect to increasing at the start or end of the row. Similarly, increases worked on every row will create a different effect to increases worked on every other row. Make a small treble swatch and…

TREBLE INCREASES

DOUBLE CROCHET DECREASE

Working double crochet decreases is just as easy as working increases. There are two main methods. Some patterns use the quick decrease method, where you’ll be instructed to ‘skip a stitch’ – this means you need to leave the next stitch unworked, while you proceed to work into the following stitch. This quick method works well, but it will leave a small hole in the fabric – if that’s the effect you want, that’s fine. If you want a solid fabric, however, you’ll need to work a decrease that’s usually called dc2tog in patterns (shown below). Working either of these methods once in a row will reduce your stitch count by one. You can decrease at any point along the row, but you’ll create different effects by working decreases in the centre of…

DOUBLE CROCHET DECREASE

SHAPING AND TURNING CHAINS

When you’re asked to work increases or decreases in your double crochet fabric at the start of a row, it can be confusing to know how to work these stitches in conjunction with the turning chain. The general rule is that it’s usually best to work the turning chain first, as usual. Then work the increase (two dc stitches) into the first stitch on the row below. Or work a dc2tog over the first two stitches on the row below. But you should always follow the instructions in your pattern.…

SHAPING AND TURNING CHAINS

LARGE DC DECREASES

Once you know how to work dc2tog, it’s easy to work a larger decrease, such as dc3tog (which means work three double crochet stitches together) to decrease by two stitches. This sort of stitch is most often used in garments or amigurumi patterns, and it’s a neat way to reduce your stitch count – it will result in a solid fabric, rather than leaving any holes. We’ve explained how to do the dc3tog stitch below, but we recommend that you get to grips with the dc2tog stitch first, before tackling the dc3tog. You’ll find it much easier to work that way. By working the dc3tog once in a row, you will reduce your stitch count by two. You can decrease at any point along the row, but you’ll create different effects by working…

LARGE DC DECREASES

USING STITCH MARKERS

Using row counters and stitch markers will help you to keep track of your increases and decreases, so you work them on the right rows and into the right stitches. The picture (right) shows a simple row of double crochet stitches, with markers in the 2nd and 4th stitches. Once you’ve worked your shaping stitches, such as in the 2nd and 4th stitches, you can move the markers up, to keep track of your shaping. Try using one colour marker for increase stitches and another for decreases, especially if the pattern you’re making is a little bit complicated.…

USING STITCH MARKERS

TREBLE DECREASE

Decreasing in treble crochet is just as easy as in double crochet. There are two main methods of decreasing that you’ll see used in patterns. Some patterns use a quick decrease method, where you’ll be instructed to ‘skip a stitch’ – this means you need to leave the next stitch unworked, and work into the following stitch. The quick method works well, but it will leave a small hole in the fabric – if that’s the effect you want, that’s fine. If you want a solid fabric, you’ll need to work a decrease that’s usually called tr2tog in patterns (shown below). Skipping one stitch or working tr2tog (the abbreviation for ‘treble 2 together’) once in a row will reduce your stitch count by one. You can decrease at any point along a row,…

TREBLE DECREASE

SHAPING AND TURNING CHAINS

When you’re shaping trebles, the turning chain can complicate things. At the end of a row, it’s neater to work a plain treble in the top of the t-ch, so work any shaping before you reach the last stitch. To shape at the start of a row, work the t-ch and skip the stitch at the base of the t-ch, as usual. Then work the increase into the top of the next stitch on the row below, or work a tr2tog stitch over the next two stitches. Or follow your pattern instructions.…

SHAPING AND TURNING CHAINS

LARGE TREBLE DECREASES

Once you know how to work tr2tog, it’s easy to work a larger decrease, such as tr3tog (which means work three treble crochet stitches together) to decrease by two stitches. This sort of stitch is most often used in garments or accessory patterns, and it’s a neat way to reduce your stitch count. It will result in a solid fabric, rather than leaving any holes. We’ve explained how to do the tr3tog stitch below, but we recommend that you get to grips with the tr2tog stitch first, before tackling the tr3tog. You’ll find it much easier that way. By working the tr3tog once in a row, you will reduce your stitch count by two. You can decrease at any point along the row, but the effects will be different if you decrease at…

LARGE TREBLE DECREASES

CLUSTER STITCHES

Decreases like the tr2tog or tr3tog use part-stitches, where you start the tr stitch but stop before the last ‘yrh and pull through all loops’. Part-stitches are also used in crochet to make clusters and bobbles. For example, you work a 3-tr cluster just like a tr3tog (above), but each part-stitch is worked into the same stitch on the row below, instead of three separate stitches. To make a bobble, work 5-7 part-stitches into the same stitch, then finish them all together to create a raised bump. Experiment and see what you can make!…

CLUSTER STITCHES

SHAPING TREBLES

YOU WILL NEED YARN ▪ UK Alpaca, Baby Alpaca Silk 4ply (80% baby alpaca, 20% silk, 50g/225m), 2 balls of Teal HOOK ▪ A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook TENSION AND SIZE 19 sts and 13 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over treble crochet using a 3mm hook Finished scarf measures approx 90x34cm (35½x13½in) ABBREVIATIONS For a full list see page 18 SCARF Ch12 (counts as tr and 9 ch). Row 1 (WS) 1tr in the fourth chain from the hook, 2tr in the next ch, 1tr in the next 2 ch, 3tr in the next ch, 1tr in the next 2 ch, 2tr in the next 2 ch, turn. [15 tr] Row 2 (RS) Ch3, 1tr in st at the base of ch-3, 2tr in the next st, 1tr in each st across to central 3-tr group, (FPtr in the next…

SHAPING TREBLES

HALF TREBLE FABRIC

Once you can make treble and double crochet stitches, it’s easy to learn more crochet stitches. The most popular of these is half treble (abbreviated as htr, and called half double crochet in the US). The half treble stitch is worked in a similar way to a treble, but without the final yrh and pull loop through. This means it’s shorter and quicker to work than a treble stitch, but longer than a double crochet stitch, so it has the best of both worlds! Half trebles create a fairly dense and warm fabric, with a slightly lacy texture, so it’s a great all-round stitch for all sorts of projects. Crocheters usually describe the pattern effect on the crochet fabric as a ‘stitch pattern’. If you work rows of half trebles on every…

HALF TREBLE FABRIC

HALF TREBLE INTO CHAINS

Start off by making a chain length – try 23 chains and then use one of the methods below to work your first half treble stitch into the foundation chain. One method might suit you better, so try both. Make sure you insert the hook under two loops of the chain stitch (the top front loop and the loop at the back of the chain). Some patterns ask you to insert the hook under just the top front loop of the chain, and you can also use this method if your chain is a bit tight. If it’s very tight, undo it and rework it using a larger hook. Then switch back to the smaller hook. Method 2 gives a more solid finish to your fabric and maintains the plaited look of…

HALF TREBLE INTO CHAINS

HALF TREBLE STITCH

Once you have a foundation chain of 23 chains and you’ve inserted the hook (with yarn wrapped round) into the 3rd chain from the hook, you can make your first half treble crochet stitch (see below). It’s just as easy as the treble! Work a half treble stitch into each chain, holding the stitches firmly, just below the hook, moving your fingers up the chain as you go. Don’t worry if it looks uneven – keep going to the end of the chain (don’t work into the slipknot). Once you’ve made the first row of half trebles (often called the foundation row), follow our guide (below right) to count your stitches – you should have 22 stitches. The first two chains you skipped at the start form the turning chain, will count…

HALF TREBLE STITCH

HOW TO COUNT STITCHES

Being able to count your stitches is vital and helps to make sure you’re following a pattern correctly. It’s a good idea to count the stitches at the end of every row, especially after working the first row of stitches into your foundation chain. To count half treble stitches, you can either count each v-shaped top of the stitch, or the tall side ‘stem’ of the stitch (see right). If you made 21ch (plus 2 t-ch), you should now have 22 half treble stitches. Do make the time to count your stitches – it’s much easier than having to undo your work to find where a mistake has been made earlier on!…

HOW TO COUNT STITCHES

HALF TREBLE ROWS

The following rows of half treble are worked in the same way as the foundation row, except you won’t now be working each stitch into each chain – instead, you’ll be working each stitch into the top of the stitch on the previous row (see below). This is just as easy as working stitches into chains – the only extra technique you’ll need to know is turning chains (see below right for more). In half treble rows, you need to count the turning chain (t-ch) as a stitch at the start of the row, then at the end of the row work a half treble stitch into the top of the turning chain of the previous row. Have a practice and you’ll soon get the hang of it. The more rows you…

HALF TREBLE ROWS

After each row of half treble, you need to turn your fabric and work the turning chain (2 chains for half treble). The picture (right) shows this done and ready to continue. In crochet, you need to make a t-ch at the start of every row to bring the hook up to the working height for the next row. You usually make the t-ch at the start of the new row, but it was traditionally worked at the end of the row, hence its name. Different stitches need a different length of t-ch (see page 46 for more detail on turning chains). In half treble fabric, you usually count the t-ch as the first stitch of the new row (unless the pattern states otherwise). The numbers on the image (right) show where…

HALF TREBLE HAT

YOU WILL NEED YARN ▪ Sublime Evie (94% cotton, 6% nylon, 50g/115m)2 balls of Neptune (557)1 ball of Luna (516) HOOK ▪ A 5mm (US H/8) hook NOTIONS ▪ Large pompom maker ▪ Darning needle TENSION AND SIZE 12 sts and 10 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over half treble stitch Hat measures 50cm (19½in) in diameter once blocked ABBREVIATIONS BPhtr/FPhtr (Back Post Half Treble/Front Post Half Treble) Yrh, insert hook around the post of the st indicated working from the back for BPhtr and the front for FPhtr, yrh and pull up a loop, yrh and pull through all loops on hook For a full list see page 18 NOTES Hat is worked in rows and seamed together at the end. To make hat larger or smaller, work a foundation ch multiple of 5+1. HAT Using Neptune, ch51. (Hold loosely around your head to check it…

HALF TREBLE HAT

DOUBLE TREBLE FABRIC

The longer the crochet stitch, the lacier the fabric you can create. Double treble stitches are long, lacy stitches that are easy to work. It’s abbreviated as dtr, and called treble crochet in the US. The double treble stitch is worked in a similar way to a treble stitch, but with more yrh’s. This means it’s longer than a treble stitch. Double trebles create a light, lacy fabric with an open texture, so it’s a great stitch for delicate shawls, edgings and many more projects. Crocheters usually describe the pattern effect on the crochet fabric as a ‘stitch pattern’. If you work rows of double treble stitches on every row, back and forth, you’ll create a simple double treble stitch pattern (see below right). Below left is an example of double treble stitches…

DOUBLE TREBLE FABRIC

DOUBLE TREBLE INTO CHAINS

Start off by making a chain length – try 25 chains. Then you can use one of the methods below to start working double treble stitches into the foundation chain. One method might suit you better, so try both. Make sure you insert the hook under two loops of the chain stitch (the top front loop and the loop at the back of the chain). Some patterns ask you to insert the hook under just the top front loop of the chain, and you can also use this method if your chain is a bit tight. If it’s very tight, undo the chain length and rework it using a larger hook. Then switch back to the smaller hook. You’ll find that Method 2 gives your fabric a neater, more solid finish and…

DOUBLE TREBLE INTO CHAINS

DOUBLE TREBLE STITCH

Once you have a foundation chain of 25 chains and you’ve inserted the hook (with yarn wrapped round twice) into the 5th chain from the hook, you can make your first double treble crochet stitch (see below). It’s just as easy as making treble stitches, with a few more twists involved! Work a double treble stitch into each chain, holding the stitches firmly, just below the hook, moving your fingers up the chain as you go. Don’t worry if it looks uneven – keep going to the end of the chain (don’t work into the slipknot). Once you’ve made the first row of double trebles (often called the foundation row), follow our guide (below right) to count your stitches – you should have 22 stitches. The first four chains you skipped at the…

DOUBLE TREBLE STITCH

DOUBLE TREBLE ROWS

The following rows of double treble are worked in the same way as the foundation row, except you won’t be working each stitch into each chain – instead, you’ll be working each stitch into the top of the stitch on the previous row (see below). This is just as easy as working stitches into chains – the only extra technique you’ll need to know is turning chains (see below right for more). In double treble rows, you need to count the turning chain (t-ch) as a stitch at the start of the row, then at the end of the row work a double treble stitch into the top of the turning chain of the previous row. Have a practice and you’ll soon get the hang of it. The more rows you…

DOUBLE TREBLE ROWS

After each row of double treble, you need to turn your fabric and work the turning chain (4 chains for dtr). The picture (right) shows this done and ready to continue. In crochet, you need to make a t-ch at the start of each row to bring the hook up to the working height for the next row. You usually make the t-ch at the start of the new row, but it was traditionally worked at the end of the row. Different stitches need a different length of t-ch (see page 46 for more detail on turning chains). In double treble fabric, you usually count the t-ch as the first stitch of the new row (unless the pattern states otherwise). The numbers on the image (right) show where to work your first…

DOUBLE TREBLE EDGINGS

YOU WILL NEED YARN ▪ Yarn and Colors Must-Have 4ply (100% cotton, 50g/125m) 2 balls of each: Lettuce (081), Silver (094) HOOK ▪ A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook NOTIONS ▪ Scissors▪ Tapestry needle▪ Tape measure▪ Napkins▪ Sewing needle and matching sewing thread SIZING & TENSION Length is adjustable to fit your napkin. Width measurements: Double Treble Picot: 3cm (1¼in)Double Treble Shell: 2cm (¾in)Double Treble Points: 2.5cm (1in) ABBREVIATIONS For a full list see page 18 DOUBLE TREBLE POINTS (1) Work this edging back and forth in short rows to make a strip that can be worked to any length to fit the napkin. Row 1 (RS) Using Soft Lime, ch5, 3dtr in first ch, turn. Row 2 (WS) Ch4, skip first dtr and ss in next dtr, ch4, ss in top of beg ch-5, turn. Repeat these two rows until the edging fits the napkin,…

DOUBLE TREBLE EDGINGS

TRIPLE TREBLE FABRIC

The longest crochet stitch that’s commonly used is the triple treble stitch, which is very long and lacy. It’s abbreviated as ttr, and called double treble in the US. The triple treble stitch is worked in a similar way to a double treble stitch, but with more yrh’s so it’s much longer. Triple trebles create a very lacy fabric with an open texture, used for all sorts of projects, but especially for making motifs. Crocheters usually describe the pattern effect on the crochet fabric as a ‘stitch pattern’. If you work rows of triple treble stitches on every row, back and forth, you’ll create a simple triple treble stitch pattern (see below right). Below left is an example of triple treble stitches worked in one row. Repeat these rows to create triple treble…

TRIPLE TREBLE FABRIC

TRIPLE TREBLE INTO CHAINS

Start off by making a chain length – try 26 chains. Then you can use one of the methods below to start working your triple treble stitches into the foundation chain. One method might suit you better, so try both. Make sure you insert the hook under two loops of the chain stitch (the top front loop and the loop at the back of the chain). Some patterns ask you to insert the hook under just the top front loop of the chain, and you can also use this method if your chain is a bit tight. If it’s very tight, undo the chain length and rework it using a larger hook. Then switch back to the smaller hook. Method 2 gives a more solid finish to your fabric and maintains the…

TRIPLE TREBLE INTO CHAINS

TRIPLE TREBLE STITCH

Once you have a foundation chain of 26 chains and you’ve inserted the hook (with yarn wrapped round three times) into the 6th chain from the hook, you can make your first triple treble stitch (see below). It’s just as easy as making treble stitches, with a few more twists of yarn involved! Work a triple treble stitch into each chain, holding the stitches firmly, just below the hook, moving your fingers up the chain as you go. Don’t worry if it looks uneven – keep going to the end of the chain (don’t work into the slipknot). Once you’ve completed the first row of triple trebles (often called the foundation row), follow our guide (below right) to count your stitches – you should have 22 stitches. The first five chains that…

TRIPLE TREBLE STITCH

HOW TO COUNT STITCHES

Being able to count your stitches is vital and helps to make sure that you’re following a pattern correctly. It’s a good idea to count your stitches at the end of every row, especially after working the first row of stitches into your foundation chain. To count tall stitches such as triple trebles, it’s usually easiest to count the tall side ‘stem’ of the stitch (see right), rather than the v-shaped top of the stitch. If you made 21ch (plus 5 t-chs), you should now have 22 double treble stitches.…

HOW TO COUNT STITCHES

TRIPLE TREBLE ROWS

The following rows of triple treble are worked in the same way as the foundation row, except you won’t now be working each stitch into each chain – instead, you’ll be working each stitch into the top of the stitch on the previous row (see below for more). This is just as easy as working stitches into chains – the only extra technique you’ll need to know is turning chains (see below right for more). In triple treble rows, you need to count the turning chain (t-ch) as a stitch at the start of the row, then at the end of the row work a triple treble stitch into the top of the turning chain of the previous row. Have a practice and you’ll soon get the hang of it. The more rows…

TRIPLE TREBLE ROWS

After each row of triple trebles, you need to turn your fabric and work the turning chain (5 chains for ttr). The picture (right) shows this done and at a point ready to continue the second row. In crochet, you need to make a t-ch at the start of each row to bring the hook up to the working height for the next row. You usually make the t-ch at the start of the new row, but it was traditionally worked at the end of the row, hence its name. Different stitches need a different length of t-ch (see page 46). In triple treble fabric, you usually count the t-ch as the first stitch of the new row (unless the pattern states otherwise). The numbers on the image (right) show where to…

MULTI-STITCH SQUARES

YOU WILL NEED YARN ▪ Sublime Baby Cashmere Merino Silk DK (75% Merino wool, 20% silk, 5% cashmere, 50g/116m), Yarn A Vanilla (003) Yarn B Scrumptious (575), or Jelly Bean (604), or Golden Goose (574), or Ahoy! (605) HOOK ▪ A 4mm (US G/6) hook NOTIONS ▪ Scissors▪ Tapestry needle TENSION AND SIZE Not critical for this project. ABBREVIATIONS For a full list see page 18 HOW TO MAKE THE HEART SQUARE With Yarn B, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as first tr), 11tr in loop, ss to top of beg ch-3. [12 sts] Round 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), 2dc into first st, 1tr into next st, 2tr into each of next 8 sts, 1tr into next st, 2dc into last st, ss between last st and first st of round. [22 sts] Round 3 Ch1 (does not…

MULTI-STITCH SQUARES

ALL ABOUT… AMIGURUMI

Amigurumi toys are some of the most popular projects for crocheters and it’s easy to see why – they’re high on aah-factor and low on difficulty, plus they make great gifts. In fact, many crocheters start learning the craft in order to make these adorable toys. The trend for crocheted toys started in Japan with ‘amigurumi’, a word used to describe crocheted or knitted stuffed toys. In Japanese, ‘ami’ means ‘crocheted or knitted’, and ‘nuigurumi’ means ‘sew and wrap’. These cute dolls and animals soared in popularity during the 1970s in Japan, and it was from this craft form that the famous ‘Hello Kitty’ brand was born. The original style of amigurumi toys had very specific characteristics: oversized heads; sweet, human-like features; a small, cylindrical body; undersized arms and feet or no…

ALL ABOUT… AMIGURUMI

CROCHET SPHERES

SPHERE SHAPE Most amigurumi creatures involve making a basic sphere shape, which is perfect for the heads and bodies of your toys. Making spheres involves increasing the number of stitches on the first few rounds, and then decreasing the number of stitches on the last few rounds. We covered increasing in double crochet on page 76 and decreasing on page 78. If you can make this shape, you can make almost any amigurumi toy. FIRM STUFFING When stuffing, it’s best to stick to specially made polyester toy stuffing, which is available in most craft shops or online. When you’re stuffing your toy, do it slowly and gently, adding stuffing in small amounts until you achieve a neat, firm look. SEAMLESS ROUNDS To work a sphere like this, you need to work in the round. Start…

CROCHET SPHERES

TUBE SHAPE Many amigurumi toys involve crocheting basic tube shapes and you can see from the photo (right) that the tubes are ideal for the arms and legs of your amigurumi creature. Making tubes is very simple because they’re worked straight. You simply work on the same number of stitches around and around in a spiral. If you can make a sphere and this shape, you can make almost any amigurumi toy. DENSE DOUBLE CROCHET Most amigurumi patterns stick to using double crochet stitches and fairly small hooks. The result is a dense fabric that will hold in all that polyester stuffing. STUFF AS YOU GO To work a tube like this, you need to work in the round. Start with a magic loop foundation ring and work the first round of stitches into the…

WORK IN SPIRALS

When you work amigurumi toys, most patterns ask you to work your stitches in the round, but in a spiral shape rather than individual circles. To start off, you’ll still need to make a foundation ring – the magic loop is best because it leaves no hole at the centre (see page 62 for a reminder on how to work it). If you prefer, you could work a different foundation ring, such as a basic ring (see page 54), but you may need to sew up the hole at the centre before you begin to stuff your toy. Once you have your foundation ring, make one t-ch and work your first round of double crochet stitches into the ring. To practise the spiral technique, try working 12 dc stitches. Stop after…

WORK IN SPIRALS

MAGIC LOOP FOUNDATION RING

The magic loop is great for amigurumi because it leaves no hole in the centre. With a bit of practice, it will become automatic. To create the magic loop, work as follows: make a loop of yarn, with the 10cm-long tail end underneath the working yarn. Insert hook into the loop, from front to back, yrh and pull the yarn through the loop. Yrh and pull through to make one t-ch for double crochet. Work the first round of double crochet stitches into the loop, over both the loop itself and the tail end (two strands of yarn). Pull the tail end of yarn to close the ring.…

MAGIC LOOP FOUNDATION RING

Changing colour in spiral rounds is very easy and uses the same technique as we’ve shown you already, on page 70. As before, you’ll need to bring in the new yarn colour on the final ‘yarn round hook’ motion of the last stitch in the old yarn colour. You can use the same technique to create stripes of colour on the legs, arms or bodies of toys. However, once you’ve tried it, you’ll see that the spiral way of working means there will be a ‘step’ or ‘jog’ of colour in your stripes. This is totally natural and you haven’t done it wrong! Many crocheters simply hide that part of the fabric during the making up stage of the toy, rather than having it on show. For example, make the line…

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