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26 Articles

If traveling is a skill, I believe I’m well on my way to mastering it. I actually enjoy scouring the internet for cheap flights and having my inbox fill with travel deals. I spend hours reading articles with titles like “12 Multi-Purpose Travel Essentials You Need For Your Next Adventure.” And I’ve successfully bartered at a market in Jerusalem, driven a car over a speed-bump-laden highway in Mexico, and found my way home after a late night on Australia’s Gold Coast. But no matter how much I’ve traveled—five continents, 18 countries, and 25 states, so far—there is one big obstacle (besides my bank account) standing between me and that pro-status travel badge: packing. Without fail, I suddenly forget the cardinal rule of layering and arrive at my destination to find…

Escape The Cityscape

CAFFEINATE LIKE A LOCAL Start your day at Evergreen’s community coffeeshop, the Muddy Buck Cafe. While ordering an Indonesian or Ethiopian blend—sourced globally and hand-roasted in-house—ask your barista about the charred rock walls and wood beams dating back to the building’s former life as the Evergreen Hotel, founded in 1896. (The place has been a magnet for fires over the decades.) Return on Wednesday evenings for a cocktail or craft beer during the cafe’s free open mic nights (4 to 9 p.m.). SHRED THE PARKS What goes up must come down. That’ll be your mantra as you and your mountain bike tackle an intermediate 13-mile loop that begins in Alderfer/Three Sisters Park, runs through Dedisse Park, and summits scenic Evergreen Mountain, climbing a total of 1,973 feet. The route provides…

Escape The Cityscape

The Hills Are Alive…

Craggy peaks, aspen-lined trails, and brilliant wildflowers—these are a few of our favorite things about Colorado’s mountain towns. For both locals and tourists, though, another category of entertainment is moving up the marquee. “A lot more people [are coming] to Crested Butte not for the recreation opportunities but for the arts,” says Jenny Birnie, executive director of Center for the Arts Crested Butte, which is currently undergoing an expansion. And Crested Butte isn’t alone: Two other mountain towns have recently debuted arts properties. We pull back the curtain on the high country’s new additions. 1 CRESTED BUTTE Annual patronage at the 31-year-old Center for the Arts Crested Butte (CACB) rose 17.5 percent in 2016 and reached 48,105 visitors in 2017. In the summer of 2017, the CACB broke ground on…

The Hills Are Alive…

FOR THE ADRENALINE JUNKIES

OUTLAW MOUNTAIN COASTER Steamboat Resort’s monster of an attraction opened in September 2017 and descends 420 vertical feet over 6,280 feet. That makes it the longest mountain coaster in North America (beating out Copper Mountain’s newer, 5,800-foot-long coaster). THE HAUNTED MINE DROP On Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park’s newest ride, which opened in summer 2017, visitors might get so caught up in the retelling of a fictional 19th-century mining accident that they won’t notice the floor dropping away. They’ll realize what happened, though, after they plunge 110 feet into Iron Mountain. EPIC DISCOVERY Last year, Vail Resorts’ summer concept expanded to Breckenridge, where adventures include the Expedition Zip Line Tour and the Alpineer Challenge Course. Purchase a day pass ($62 or $89) or go à la carte.…

FOR THE ADRENALINE JUNKIES

Off The (Very) Beaten Path

HAPPY TRAILS Climbing 1,100 feet over 1.2 miles, Hanging Lake Trail is a calf buster. But the aquamarine pond at its apex, perched improbably on a cliff, is also a jaw dropper—and why more than 150,000 people descend upon the Glenwood Canyon gem each year, most of them during the summer months. Thankfully, there are other nearby hikes (with similar characteristics) that show off equally stunning landscapes, minus the crowds. SAME DISTANCE, LESS SWEAT Main Elk Creek Trail Thirty minutes northwest of Glenwood Springs, this three-mile out-and-back trail follows lush Main Elk Creek past 800-foot walls of granite and limestone. The scenic payoff at the end—a rocky riverbank ringed by spruce and fir trees—feels almost undeserved, given the relatively small effort the rolling hike demands. Extended Stay: Pack your tent…

Off The (Very) Beaten Path

Shot On Location

AMATEUR OSPREY ULTRALIGHT CAMERA CASE EXTRA LARGE Price: $40 Headquarters: Cortez Features: Padded main compartment, neck/shoulder strap Best For: Keeping your SLR handy while you explore the Maroon Bells–Snowmass Wilderness CASUAL TOPO DESIGNS CAMERA CUBE Price: $59 Headquarters: Denver Features: Padded side walls and base, cinch top closure, adjustable internal dividers Best For: Overlook shots in Rocky Mountain National Park PROFESSIONAL MOUNTAINSMITH T.A.N. KIT CUBE LARGE Price: $70 Headquarters: Golden Features: Water-resistant exterior, color-coded pockets for new and used memory cards Best For: Dayhiking Kenosha Pass with every lens you own FRAMED Three tips for crafting a fall foliage masterpiece from 5280 contributing photographer Jason Hatfield. TIP 1 Avoid The Icons: Off the most popular trails, you’re less likely to encounter other photographers for sunrise or sunset shots (the most…

Shot On Location

Offseason Outing

SEE THE (ARTISTIC) SIGHTS Built into a hill that overlooks the National Elk Refuge (see “Meet The Locals”), the National Museum of Wildlife Art of the United States is home to more than 5,000 works, including pieces by artists of renown such as Georgia O’Keeffe and John James Audubon. Save time to head to nearby Grand Teton National Park, where you can attempt your best Ansel Adams impression at the same overlook where he captured his famous “The Tetons and the Snake River” in 1942. MEET THE LOCALS One of Jackson’s best attributes is its proximity to natural areas (Yellowstone National Park, Bridger-Teton National Forest), which makes wildlife sightings likely. The National Elk Refuge, for instance, is home to roughly 47 mammal species, including one of the largest wintertime elk…

Offseason Outing

Backpacking Plus

For a moment, this Montana adventure sure feels like backpacking. First, there’s the requisite dark chocolate. Plus, we’re passing around a shiny flask of whiskey in the post-dinner lull. White crystals of dried sweat dust the back of my neck. My shoulders are sore from hauling my 60-liter backpack all afternoon. And most of all, there’s the view: Glacier National Park’s most beautiful snowcapped pyramids and signature layers of geologic stripes rarely unveil themselves anywhere near a road. But signs that I’m not that far from civilization are difficult to ignore. We’re leaning against gnarled log beams and perched on benches as the sun makes its lazy descent; the high-summer sunset takes its time in these northerly latitudes. Some kids playing in front of us are bouncing on a giant…

Backpacking Plus

In the early 1950s, Ernie Blake had an unusual commute. Instead of driving from Santa Fe, New Mexico, where he managed Santa Fe Ski Basin, to the ski area’s sister resort in Glenwood Springs, he flew his Cessna 170. Taking to the air saved Blake about six hours of drive time each way, but even more important, the flights allowed him to study the landscape below. Through the plane’s windshield, Blake, then in his early 40s, could scan the terrain for “the spot”—the place where he would eventually build his own ski resort. On one such voyage in 1953, Blake found it. The perfect snow basin sat just north of 13,159-foot Wheeler Peak in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. The location was ideal: a mere 20 miles from Taos, with…

WATER: Colorado River, Loma Boat Launch SWA to Westwater Ranger Station LOCATION: Ruby and Horsethief canyons, Colorado and Utah TRIP LENGTH: 2 to 3 days FOR COLORADANS LIVING IN and around Grand Junction, the gentle 25-mile float down the Colorado River through Ruby and Horsethief canyons is an annual summertime pilgrimage. Local families depart from the easily accessible boat launch with slapdash flotillas composed of tent- and cooler-laden drift boats, canoes, stand-up paddleboards, rafts, and even giant inflatable swans. For those who journey from the Front Range to the Western Slope to experience the magic of the Ruby-Horsethief section of the Colorado, inflatable kayaks (which you can rent for about $35 a day from Fruita’s Rimrock Adventures) are the only way to travel. Sometimes called “duckies,” these open-topped kayaks are…

WHITE-WATER RAFTING

WATER: Arkansas River LOCATION: Bighorn Sheep Canyon and Royal Gorge, Colorado TRIP LENGTH: 2 days THERE ARE PLENTY of occasions to get a paddle wet sans guide, but rafting through Class III and IV rapids probably isn’t one of them. And, truthfully, having someone who knows not only the river’s secrets but also area landmarks, local lore, and where to score an après-float sixer can elevate your experience. Another way to upgrade your trip? Make it an overnight excursion with an outfit like American Adventure Expeditions (with locations in Cañon City and Buena Vista). Many Colorado guiding services offer multiday white-water quests; however, American Adventure’s overnight setup ($300 per person)—including its two-day itinerary and riverside location—is unsurpassed. First, the 32-year-old company’s Cañon City outpost has quick access to two amazing…

WHITE-WATER RAFTING

WATER: Green River, Mineral Bottom to Spanish Bottom LOCATION: Canyonlands National Park, Utah TRIP LENGTH: 4 to 5 days PADDLING 55 MILES in a 16-foot, two-person canoe presents a few challenges—like where to stash the portable toilet and how to not get your camera wet. You’ll want to solve these packing quandaries (and others) before shoving off from the Mineral Bottom boat launch, because leaving essentials behind isn’t an option. And, yes, a camera is required equipment on a four-day journey that takes you through one of the country’s most remote and picturesque landscapes: Canyonlands National Park. Although the navigating—and campsite-finding, tent-pitching, and cooking—is up to you after setting sail, having an outfitter, like Moab’s Tag-A-Long Expeditions/Adrift Adventures, assist you with information about required permits, rental gear (about $175 for…

STAND-UP PADDLE-BOARDING

WATER: Multiple reservoirs and lakes LOCATION: Flat Tops Wilderness, Colorado TRIP LENGTH: 2 to 3 days MOST PEOPLE LEARNING to stand-up paddleboard are chiefly concerned with getting vertical. But the drive to stabilize often means missing out on one of the greatest pleasures of the sport: paddling to the middle of a lake, lying faceup on the board, and losing track of time while staring into a big blue sky. You could try this horizontal maneuver at any number of spots in the metro area (we like Boulder Reservoir, Chatfield Reservoir, and Cherry Creek Reservoir), but for a weekend full of fun in the water, head three hours west to the Flat Tops Wilderness. This 235,214-acre refuge is where the notion of wilderness was first applied to public land—and it’s…

STAND-UP PADDLE-BOARDING

Where The Wild Things Are

Just beyond the visitor center at Hovenweep National Monument, a collection of ancient dwellings perched on the edge of a canyon on the Utah-Colorado border, a trail sign reads, “If You Only Have 15 Minutes….” Standing in front of it, as the stone towers begin to glow in dawn’s light, one can’t help but wonder, Who comes all the way out here for 15 minutes? Roughly 450 miles from Denver, Hovenweep sits in the middle of the Four Corners region—the beautiful, empty intersection of Colorado, Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico. The closest town of any size to Hovenweep is an hour away. This isn’t exactly a place you end up in by accident—and that’s precisely the point. Although many of us have heard of, or maybe even visited, Mesa Verde…

Where The Wild Things Are

People Of The Past

10,000ish years ago PALEOINDIAN Prehistoric humans hunt mammoths and other large mammals and gather in small groups. 6000 B.C.–500 B.C. ARCHAIC As the climate warms, killing off big game, the hunter-gatherer population increases and their nomadic wanderings become more patterned; they move with the seasons, eating more fruits and berries and smaller animals. 500 B.C.–500 BASKETMAKER II Humans begin to cultivate crops, mostly maize, and remain in locations longer, building and living in more permanent structures, often dug into the ground, called “pit houses.” 500–750 BASKETMAKER III The Four Corners region sees a population boom as hunters transition from spears to bows and arrows and farmers cultivate additional crops. Single farms develop into communities with “great kivas”—large, public buildings for ceremonial purposes. 750–900 PUEBLO I The villages grow larger, and…

People Of The Past

You Only Have One Day…

If you’re going to drive eight hours from Denver to Four Corners, we hope you’ll give yourself more than a single day to explore the majestic landscape. But for those of you who are simply passing through on your way to somewhere else (Moab is 145 miles farther; it’s nearly 500 miles to Vegas), here’s a one-day, cram-it-all-in-so-you-can-brag-to-your-friends itinerary. MUST DO ‣ 9 A.M. Get a primer about the ancient tribes of Four Corners at the Canyons of the Ancients Visitor Center & Museum in Dolores. The $4.8 million facility is one of the most engaging interpretive centers we’ve had the pleasure to enter. And it’s just $3. Things you must do, besides getting lost among the artifacts and interactive displays in the 40,000-square-foot venue: Grind corn with stone tools;…

You Only Have One Day…

The Most Underrated Adventure

MUST DO In April 2017, when President Donald Trump ordered Secretary of the Interior Ryan Zinke to review—and potentially dismantle—all national monuments established after 1996 that are larger than 100,000 acres, a single monument in Colorado landed on the list of 27: Canyons of the Ancients. Established in 2000, this 176,000-acre monument along the Utah border holds the largest concentration of archeological sites in the country. In some places, they can be as dense as 100 per square mile. And unlike the structures at Mesa Verde, which you can only enjoy from afar or amongst a crowd, Canyons of the Ancients is open to backcountry exploration. All you need is camping gear, water, and an adventurous streak, and you can discover 800-year-old pueblos, rock art, and pottery shards from ancient…

The Most Underrated Adventure

A Tale Of Three Cities

TOWN CORTEZ population 9,007 GO HERE IF… YOU CRAVE CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS AND CULINARY OPTIONS HIGHLIGHTS Equidistant to Mesa Verde and Canyons of the Ancients, Cortez boasts the Crow Canyon Archaeological Center, an academic research campus that allows the public to assist with digs. Downtown, a cultural center/gallery housed in a beautiful 1909 mercantile building showcases local artisans, writers, musicians, and dancers (watch Native American dancers Monday through Saturday for free at 7 p.m.). And the food options here are more diverse than anywhere else within 50 miles. DRAWBACKS In-town lodging options are limited to the standard budget hotel chains and roadside motels. Fortunately, the stunning Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch (see “Side Trip: McElmo Canyon” below) is located just outside of town. TOWN DOLORES population 997 GO HERE IF……

A Tale Of Three Cities

How’d That Get There?

Shiprock NEW MEXICO This 1,500-foot landmark, which is visible from as far as 30 miles away, is actually the neck of an ancient volcano. Made up of minette, a type of igneous rock (rock created from magma), Shiprock likely formed below the earth’s surface about 30 million years ago, when the San Juan region roiled with volcanic activity. Millions of years of erosion wore down all but the hardest rock, eventually exposing the neck of the volcano. The landmark, which sits upon Navajo Nation land, gets its English name from its resemblance to a 19th-century clipper ship. But the Navajo—for whom the rock is sacred—call it Tsé bít a’í, or “winged rock,” because the volcanic structures span out on either side like wings. Visitors are allowed to hike near Shiprock,…

How’d That Get There?

Don’t Call Us Anasazi

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE GEOGRAPHY Question: Four Corners’ north-south thoroughfare U.S. 491 was once called Highway 666, or the Devil’s Highway. Parts of it also fall along the path of the Long Walk, which was forced upon which Native American tribe? Answer: The Navajo. In the winter of 1864, the U.S.government “relocated” more than 8,500 Navajo, forcing them to walk over 300 miles—from northeastern Arizona into New Mexico—in eight weeks. More than 200 people died during the Long Walk of the Navajo. ENTERTAINMENT Question: What Four Corners(ish) town was memorialized in an Eagles song? Answer: Winslow, Arizona, which sits outside of the Hopi Reservation, just off of Interstate 40. (Well, I’m a-standin’ on a corner in Winslow, Arizona // Such a fine sight to see // It’s a girl, my Lord, in…

Don’t Call Us Anasazi

MUST DO The area around Bluff, Utah, was once at the center of Ancestral Puebloan life; today, it’s at the center of adventures through Utah’s canyon lands. Monument Valley, Natural Bridges National Monument, and Canyonlands National Park are all accessible from this pioneer town, which was founded by Mormons in 1880 (you can still explore remnants of their original settlement at the Bluff Fort Historic Site in town). But the best way to marvel at the region’s geologic and human history is with a trip down the San Juan River. Four Corners Adventures & Wild Rivers Expeditions runs half-day to seven-day tours that include food and lodging (i.e., camping, but you don’t have to do any setup, cooking, or cleanup). If you have the time, do the full canyon tour…

‣ MANCOS Fahrenheit Coffee Roasters: Fahrenheit has been serving Mancos well-balanced brews for 12 years. If you’re feeling peckish, Fahrenheit’s oversize homemade pastries—giant, gooey, delicious cinnamon rolls, anyone?—will tame your hunger. Absolute Bakery & Cafe: It can be difficult to snag a spot in this tiny breakfast and lunch spot, but trust us: It’s worth waiting for sandwiches served on fresh bread, soups created from scratch, and decadent desserts (strudels and cookies of every imaginable variety). And since nothing on the menu costs more than $12, you won’t feel guilty about splurging on a bunch of macaroons for the road. Olio: Befitting its name (an “olio” is a miscellaneous collection of things), Olio is part restaurant, part wine bar, and part art gallery. Experience all three Tuesday through Saturday, starting…

Choose Your Own Adventure

MUST DO MOUNTAIN BIKE AT HOOD MESA Every October, Farmington hosts one of the oldest mountain biking races in the country: the Road Apple Rally, where racers take on Glade Run Recreation Area’s slickrock and boulders. (Just keep an eye out for Jeeps and other rock crawlers while you ride.) You can sample the rest of the area’s singletrack on your own anytime. The Hood Mesa, Piñon Mesa, and Kinsey’s Ridge trails just north of town are popular options that hold miles of varied riding for every ability level. PADDLE THE ANIMAS RIVER’S WHITE-WATER PARK Farmington sits at the confluence of the Animas and San Juan rivers, and the town made the most of that by installing a white-water park along the Animas on the south side of town in…

Choose Your Own Adventure

Between the incredible rock formations, wide-open skies, and ideal light, Four Corners is a photographer’s dream. In fact, it’s a favorite site for photography tours. (Four Corners Adventures & Wild Rivers Expeditions runs them year-round.) But if all you’re armed with is your smartphone, we’ve got you covered. Here are a few tips for capturing some of the region’s quintessential shots. CLIFF PALACE AT MESA VERDE This is the iconic Mesa Verde shot—the one you can’t leave Four Corners without. The secret to photographing Cliff Palace, the largest of the park’s cliff dwellings, is to shoot it when light isn’t hitting the structure directly (it washes out the sandstone). At west-facing Cliff Palace, that’s typically late afternoon. Focus on the details by nabbing an up-close shot during a ranger-led tour.…

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

‣ Cell service in many parts of Four Corners is spotty, so plan accordingly. ‣ The dirt roads in this region can be as slippery as snow after a hard rain. Be cautious when driving in wet conditions. You’ll only be able to go as fast as the car in front of you in Mesa Verde, so leave yourself about an hour to drive the 20 or so miles from the entrance to the cliff dwellings on the other side of the park. ‣ The ranger-led hikes in Mesa Verde sell out quickly, but you can purchase tickets up to two days in advance. ‣ Bring cash for souvenirs from the artisans at Four Corners Monument (they range from about $5 to $500). Not all artisans accept cards and checks,…

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Colorado’s plentiful sunshine, meager rainfall, and varied terrain would suggest the state is an ideal location for world-class golf courses. And it is, being home to the likes of Cherry Hills Country Club, the Broadmoor Golf Club, and Red Sky Ranch and Golf Club. But those courses aren’t exactly new. In fact, the Centennial State hasn’t seen a ground-up golf course development in nearly a decade. That’s about to change. TPC Colorado, a par-72 championship course built on the edges of Lonetree, McNeil, and Welch reservoirs in Berthoud, will open to the public next month. The semi-private course (rounds start at $150) and clubhouse represent phase one of the master-planned Heron Lakes community, which will eventually include 1,200 homes, a community center, a pool, a fitness facility, a restaurant, and…

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