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34 Articles

From The Editor

Making Memories I can still vividly remember the first time I saw a moose. I was on an overnight canoe trip during summer camp in Ontario, Canada. I must’ve been 11 or 12 years old. To be honest, I wasn’t keen on the excursion; it’s not difficult to imagine the frustrations that arise when a gaggle of tween girls have to portage heavy, wet boats and attempt to paddle in sync. But there we were, gliding along, when I turned my head and saw a massive bull standing near the bank, its antlers reflected in the still lake. I was mesmerized. I took a deep breath, snapped a mental picture, and sunk my oar back into the water. Sometimes it’s challenging to pinpoint when you fall in love with something.…

From The Editor

Dibs On The Top Bunk

FOR THE OUTDOORSPERSON Cattle Round-Up Camp // Any week from September 3 to October 1 A trip to Rockmount Ranch Wear is in order for new boots, a hat, and maybe some spurs—for decoration only—before you mosey into this adults-only cowboy camp north of Steamboat Springs. In the space of a single week packed with hands-on clinics, wranglers at Vista Verde Guest Ranch will teach you how to be more comfortable in the saddle and how to herd cattle. (Tip: Don’t ride straight at the animals or they’ll scatter.) Then you’ll put your knowledge to the test during a daylong search across 18,000 acres to find wandering cows. // $3,895–$4,195, vistaverde.com FOR THE INDIANA JONES WANNABE Archaeology Research Program // September 3 to 9, September 10 to 18, or October 1 to…

Dibs On The Top Bunk

When planning your summer biking tour, you don’t have to choose between a well-run (but often impersonal) big outfit and a small, independent guide who embeds you with the natives—then forgets your luggage. These operators provide provincial and professional expertise so you can forget you’re a tourist...as long as you keep that Hawaiian shirt in your pannier. BOULDER Outfitter: Cognoscenti Month: August Price: Starts at $3,950 Every morning of this four-day, mileagejunky jaunt begins at the swanky St Julien Hotel & Spa, from which you’ll tackle classic rides such as FlagstaffMountain. However, Cognoscenti’s guides—including ex-pro cyclists like Nederland’s Timmy Duggan, a national champion, and U23 Criterium national champion Craig Lewis—also promise routes so secret they won’t even allow us to publish them. Offthe bike, you can choose to tour the…

SMOOTH RIDE Mosaic Cycles’ GT-1 custom titanium frame has more clearance for wider tires, and hydraulic disc brakes boost control on descents. Prices vary; mosaiccycles.com FOR GOOD MEASURE Stages Cycling’s power meters—the most accurate way to train—add mere grams to your bike and provide a constant readout of your efforts in RPMs and watts. Starts at $529; stagescycling.com RIGHT AS RAIN The waterproof Pearl Izumi Elite WxB jacket stuffs easily in a pocket as insurance against summer cloudbursts. $160; pearlizumi.com…

Hot Springs Eternal

Last summer, Colorado’s tourism gurus designated a 720-mile circuit of 19 naturally heated soaking spots as the Historic Hot Springs Loop. Of course, nothing goes better with hot than, well, cold. To that end, we’ve put toge ther five hot springs and winter adventure combinations in some of our favorite locations. OURAY Hot: Most of Orvis Hot Springs’ seven indoor and outdoor soaking areas ($11 to $22) are clothingoptional and prohibit electronics, so you can eschew all accouterments. Bonus: Catch an exhibit about one of the town’s other notable soaking attractions— the 90-year-old, just-renovated Ouray Hot Springs Pool—at the Ouray County Museum before the show closes on November 11. Cold: By Thanksgiving, the snow is typically deep enough for Telluride Outside’s guided half-day snowmobile tours ($195). The Beaver Park area’s…

Hot Springs Eternal

IF YOUR GUESTS WANT TO SEE: Denver Botanic Gardens TAKE THEM TO: Fruition Restaurant Create the perfect date for your visitors with a late-afternoon stroll through the York Street gardens’ succulents and sculptures (an exhibit of largescale outdoor metal works by Alexander Calder) followed by dinner at Fruition. If available, try the seasonal lamb dish (pictured) and the savory cheese dessert; chef and proprietor Alex Seidel often uses ingredients from his Fruition Farms Creamery. 1313 E. Sixth Ave., 303-831-1962, fruition restaurant.com IF YOUR GUESTS WANT TO SEE: Red Rocks Park and Amphitheatre TAKE THEM TO: Golden Moon Speakeasy The country’s coolest natural amphitheater is a can’t-miss site. Explore the venue and surrounding park, making sure to point out-of-towners to the on-site museum for a history of Red Rocks shows. Quench…

Sun Valley Also Rises

Despite debuting as the country’s first destination ski resort 80 years ago, Sun Valley, Idaho, really shines in the summer. Nestled between five mountain ranges and adjacent to the trout-filled waters of the Big Wood River, the area (which includes neighboring Ketchum) offers plenty of opportunities for warm-weather adventures. And with United Airlines having restarted its seasonal, daily direct flight between Denver and Sun Valley in June 2016, it’s probably easier to travel to Sun Valley than it is to battle traffic on I-70. Here’s how to enjoy your own private Idaho. 1 STAY Sun Valley Lodge You’ll sleep where Marilyn Monroe and Ernest Hemingway have—except you’ll have slightly bigger accommodations. A 2015 renovation created 108 larger rooms (which start at $320 per night) and added a cafe next to…

Sun Valley Also Rises

GEAR The Primus Onja BORN IN Louisville (North American headquarters; based in Stockholm) WHY YOU NEED IT Light and easy to carry, the Onja stove folds out to provide a stable base for twin gas burners. WHO’S USING IT Car campers and park-day picnickers who appreciate (goodlooking) form as much as function. Given its size, however, the Onja isn’t for backcountry campers. GET IT $140 at primus.us and rei.com…

Northern Exposure

The first time I drove through Montana, the country’s fourth-largest state, on a Denver-to- Canada road trip, I immediately felt at home. The broad-shouldered peaks and wide-open skies around the town of Missoula, in particular, were familiar enough, but there was something else in the summer air, something I couldn’t quite identify. Maybe it was the rushing rivers slicing through lush valleys; the cowboy boots walking around at highway rest areas; or the possibility of seeing grizzly bears, moose, and wolves around every bend in the road. Or maybe it was something a friend who went to college here told me: “Montana is like Colorado, but without all the people.” That heady combination of expansive landscapes, spectacular mountains, and the sense that it was mine alone drew me back to…

Northern Exposure

The Bold & The Beautiful

It’s a cloudless May morning, and I’m gazing across the Colorado River, which looks deceptively tame from the Westwater boat launch. Beyond our rafts, the water flows swift and flat, with plenty of space to spread out between the tamariskcovered banks. But Skull Rapid and the Room of Doom await downriver, and I know what my longtime adventure buddy, Jeni, would say about those monikers: They promise fright, not necessarily fun. Her axiom holds that trails and outdoor destinations with romantic names like Emerald Falls or Bluebird Lake serve up easygoing good times, while signatures that reference death or blood or the devil signal danger—something Jeni (and plenty of other sensible folks) would rather avoid. But Jeni’s not on this adventure, and in fact, most of my companions on this…

The Bold & The Beautiful

TREASURE HUNTING Some legendary Colorado relics reside at the Denver Museum of Nature & Science— but you have to know where to find them. 1. Aquamarine Along with collections displaying gold and minerals sits the largest pocket of aquamarine (our state gemstone) ever discovered in North America. The massive specimen, which has about 120 rods of the blue-green mineral shooting out of it, was unearthed on Mt. Antero, outside of Buena Vista, in 2004. Find It: Coors Gems & Minerals Hall 2. Ground Hog Wire Gold Move over, gold nuggets: This rare find is wiry, curled like a horseshoe, and still partially implanted in rock. Even more unusual are the dark striations along the gold. The small piece of metal was extracted from the Ground Hog Mine near Red Cliffin…

CURATED DISCOVERIES

• Wash your hands in either first-floor restroom in the Denver Art Museum’s North Building, and you’re in for a treat: Denver-based sound artist Jim Green rigged the sinks to play one line of “Row, Row, Row Your Boat.” • Walk through the quirky bubble garden installation on the top floor of MCA Denver and up a short ramp, and you’ll find the tucked-away Upper Idea Box. Four times a year, youth involved in the Failure Lab teen internship program curate an exhibition here. See what the next generation of artists is dreaming up when a new show opens this fall. • It’d be challenging not to find a treasure at the Forney Museum of Transportation. The often-overlooked nonprofit is home to Amelia Earhart’s car (pictured), one of only eight…

CURATED DISCOVERIES

Surprising Sips

1.?Taste Black Project Spontaneous & Wild Ales’ experimental brews at its Platt Park taproom—or during special release parties. (On July 20, try the brewery’s new series of fruited beers.) 2. At the Oxford Hotel, sample the Oxford 1891 Bourbon, a single-barrel batch by Laws Whiskey House that you can’t find anywhere else. 3. For four years, a secret brewed in Black Shirt Brewing Co.’s cellar: the Unrehearsed Ale Project, a series of brews made with wild yeasts hand-collected on the Western Slope. A new lambic-style beer will be tapped this summer. 4. State 38 Distilling’s WI McKenzie is the first made-in- Colorado Scottish peat-smoked whisky.…

Surprising Sips

LAND OF PLENTY When they have a free weekend, most Denverites head west. But there’s good reason to instead drive toward the Eastern Plains, where unexpectedly cool scenes are (almost) as common as cattle. Let us introduce you to the flatlands’ eclectic, less-visited offerings. The Inn at the Feed Store After stopping at the Feed Store in Byers—current headquarters for M12 Collective, a nonprofit arts organization—head next door to drop your bags. The unassuming brick building is actually a modest bed-andbreakfast ($115 per night for single occupancy). Call ahead if you want to make reservations. 303-822-5625 M12 Collective Experimental Site A couple of miles south of the dilapidated Last Chance Motel (on CO 71), eight wooden squares stand tall among the prairie grasses. The Last Chance Module Array is one…

On The Calendar

“ROAM” Black Cube, a nomadic contemporary art museum, presents “Roam” by artist Jon Geiger: a billboard-shaped sculpture of five neon tumbleweeds that are lit in sequence to mimic rolling. View it at the University of Colorado Colorado Springs Galleries of Contemporary Art in December. blackcubeart.org JESSUP FARM SUMMER FESTIVAL An abandoned farmstead in Fort Collins has found new life as Jessup Farm Artisan Village. The buildings—which are more than 100 years old—were restored and opened to the public in 2015 with a coffeeshop, brewery, restaurant, and more. Visit during the summer festival (date TBD). jessupfarm.com ARTLAB EXHIBIT In August, students from PlatteForum’s ArtLab (an after-school arts program for underserved youth) will work together with nomadic museum Black Cube (see “Roam,” far left) to curate an exhibit. Check out their finished…

On The Calendar

CYCLING Taste samplers of beers at Odell Brewing Company and three other breweries of your choosing while taking in FoCo’s scenery; you’ll pedal three to six miles around town (wheels are provided) during Bike & Beer Tours’ daily Brew Cruises. $50 to $65 per person (beer not included); beerandbiketours.com DISC GOLF Drink a Sour Apricot at Dry Dock Brewing Co.’s North Dock location while enjoying friendly competition on the Aurora brewery’s 18-hole, nautical-themed disc golf course out back. Free; drydockbrewing.com ROCK CLIMBING Sip a Joe’s Pils at the Spot Bouldering Gym while doing your best to ignore your burning forearms after you explore the Boulder venue’s six climbing areas; a selection of Avery beers is available anytime after 4:30 p.m. $18 for a day pass, $5 for shoes; thespotgym.com 11…

Preserving The Past In 1997, nonprofit Colorado Preservation Inc. launched the Endangered Places program. The goal: to raise awareness of historically significant but threatened buildings and landscapes in order to inspire communities to find creative ways to conserve them. Since then, CPI has identified 113 sites, 41 of which have been declared “saved.” Of course, that means many more are still vulnerable. With the help of CPI, we selected four once-forgotten pieces of Colorado history worth a visit. coloradopreservation.org Crossan’s Market You may not be allowed inside this dilapidated building—yet— but you should still stop to photograph the faded white exterior the next time you’re driving through Yampa. (May we suggest boating on nearby Yamcolo Reservoir or hiking in the Flat Tops Wilderness Area?) Preserved inside the mercantile building were…

WIN THE POTLUCK AT BROKEN COMPASS BREWING COMPANY During Monday night fall and winter potlucks in Breckenridge, locals and visitors come together to dine and compete. Attendees vote on the top three dishes; winners receive a BC growler. It’s free to participate. brokencompassbrewing.com RIDE A SNOWCAT TO CLOUD NINE ALPINE BISTRO Hop on a snowcat for a 30-minute ride to this cabin at the top of Aspen Highlands’ Cloud Nine lift for a four-course meal (think: squash risotto with pork belly and Colorado beef tenderloin). You’ll never look at apres-ski the same way again. aspensnowmass.com CROSS-COUNTRY SKI TO MAGIC MEADOWS YURT You’ll have to work for your supper at Crested Butte’s Magic Meadows: Crosscountry ski or snowshoe one mile on a groomed trail to reach the large yurt. Inside, you’ll…

Critter: Flammulated Owl Features: Picture your average screech owl—and then shrink him down to six inches tall. Spot ’Em: The trunks and branches of ponderosa pines serve as highly camouflaged owl living rooms. Scientists once believed the birds to be incredibly rare; turns out, it’s just really difficult to detect them. Get your binoculars ready the next time you’re trekking through Pike National Forest. Critter: Pine Marten Features: Chocolate brown with an orange chest, this weasel has a catlike face and whiskers to match. Spot ’Em: Bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, pine martens play in subalpine coniferous forests. Keep your eyes peeled on hikes in Rocky Mountain National Park. Critter: Pika Features: Put Stuart Little’s face on a hamster’s body, and you’ve got this adorable fur ball. Spot ’Em: These pint-size animals…

UNDEREXPLORED Everyone knows about the Great Sand Dunes, but beyond those geologic wonders sits the rest of the San Luis Valley, just waiting to be discovered. Here are four ways to survey one of Colorado’s least-visited regions. —Chris Outcalt RIDE A TRAIN The most relaxing way to climb the Sangre de Cristo Mountains is the Old West way: by train. The Rio Grande Scenic Railroad (tickets are $99 for adults) sets offfrom Alamosa and traces steep and rocky La Veta Pass on tracks that were laid in 1878. The area isn’t accessible by car, so you’ll get a peek at panoramas that few Coloradans have seen. But the scenery isn’t the only treat: If you book a ride that stops at Fir Summit Amphitheater, you’ll get to experience Colorado’s only…

TRAIL GUIDE The 1,200-mile-long Santa Fe Trail was built in 1821 as the country’s first commercial highway. More than a century later, the 184 miles of former trail (which often overlap with modern highways) inside Colorado were designated a National Historic Trail. Since then, the roadway has been relabeled the Santa Fe Trail Scenic and Historic Byway—and you can follow it to a variety of attractions, both old and new. Get started with seven of our favorites. 1. MONDAY, BLOODY MONDAY In April 1914, members of the Colorado State Militia engaged in a gunfight with striking mine workers and torched their encampment. At least 20 people were killed. Learn more at the Ludlow Massacre Memorial monument, erected on the site of the burned camp, located outside Trinidad. 2. WESTWARD, HO…

Blue Lakes Trail

Dangling spruce branches shade the winding dirt path, obstructing my view of Mt. Sneffels, a jagged 14,157- foot peak rising in the distance. It’s a dazzling sight, but right now I’m more concerned with the encroaching darkness. Thanks to a late start, my wife and I are still a mile from our intended campsite, and the sun has already dipped behind the mountaintops. After nearly two hours and three miles of hiking up Blue Lakes Trail’s steady incline with 40-pound packs on our backs, we’re exhausted. But we haven’t seen a single suitable place to make camp early, so our only choice is to keep moving as quickly as possible. I quietly assure myself that our destination, a picturesque alpine lake, is just around the next bend. And then the…

Blue Lakes Trail

BACKPACKERS WILL ALSO LIKE…

Mount of the Holy Cross Nearest town: Minturn Eagle County’s only fourteener, Mount of the Holy Cross, can be summited in a day, but the challenging 12-mile round-trip hike— which involves climbing 11,600- foot Half Moon Pass, descending into a valley, and then trekking up to Holy Cross’ summit—is more enjoyable if you split it into two parts. Journey to one of the designated dispersed campsites (don’t forget to fill out a registration form) near the stream at the bottom of the valley and make camp; then make your way up the fourteener the following morning. Reminder: Fires are not allowed anywhere along the trail to the summit. Free, fs.usda.gov Lost Creek Wilderness Loop Nearest town: Bailey Campers seeking unique scenery should make their ways through this still-sparse forest, which…

BACKPACKERS WILL ALSO LIKE…

Angel Of Shavano Campground

T he three young bighorn sheep are close enough that I can see the ridges in their horns and the blacks of their pupils through the windshield. They’re staring at our blue Mazda, heads tilted. When the dust we kicked up coming to a quick stop on the dirt road settles, I can finally make out the words on the U.S. Forest Service’s signature brown-and-yellow sign: Angel of Shavano Campground. After the wildlife roadblock finally clears, my boyfriend and I drive through the loop of 20 sites—each of which includes a grated fire pit and a picnic table and sits a quick walk away from a vault toilet—searching for an empty slot. We finally settle on number 18, a flat, L-shaped plot edged by purple wildflowers, park our car in…

Angel Of Shavano Campground

Crow Valley Recreation Area Family Campground Nearest town: Briggsdale Located about 30 minutes from Pawnee National Grassland, Crow Valley offers a lot more than just a place to sleep in your tent or RV (though there are no electrical hookups or water connections), including an education site complete with a museum and an amphitheater, a baseball field, and a volleyball court. Take a drive to the striking Pawnee Buttes, towering sedimentary rock formations within the grassland, for prime bird-watching opportunities (after June 30). $13 to $18 per night, recreation.gov Arapaho Bay Campground Nearest town: Granby Reservations are a good idea for Arapaho Bay’s 84 tent, RV, and trailer sites, which are located on the edge of Lake Granby and offer easy access to fishing and boating (rent a boat at…

Wellington Lake

Iam finishing the last bite of my fire-warmed chicken enchilada when the deluge begins. Heavy droplets hit the surface of Wellington Lake. My husband, Heath, and I usher our daughters, ages four and eight, into the tent before shoving what we can into the car and scurrying under the rain fly ourselves. I sigh loudly, hoping this storm isn’t setting the tone for the rest of our weekend. As the rain pounds our tent, I close my eyes and dream of waking up to a different scene. Somehow, 10 years had passed since I’d last zipped into a sleeping bag under the stars. My children had trudged into the wilderness with Heath the previous couple of summers and were, despite their ages, seasoned campers. I was the one who was…

Wellington Lake

CAMPERS WITH KIDS

Kenosha Pass Campground Nearest town: Jefferson Obsessed with the Colorado Trail? Just below the summit of Kenosha Pass sit 30 car-accessible sites, mere steps from the iconic path. Thick aspen groves and stands of lodgepole pines provide privacy; there are picnic tables, fire rings, drinking water, and vault toilets. You need only hike a mile or so southwest beyond the campsite to discover sweeping views of the South Park basin. Along the way, kids will love spotting the lean-tos that have sprouted up along the footpath. $18 (plus a $9 online reservation fee), recreation.gov Lakeview Campground Nearest town: Leadville This bundle of 59 campsites (with vault toilets, fire rings, and firewood for purchase) sits above Twin Lakes and is situated on the southeast flank of Mt. Elbert, Colorado’s highest mountain…

CAMPERS WITH KIDS

THE NONNEGOTIABLES YOU’LL NEED A FEW OF THESE EXTRAS FROM WHICH TO PICK AND CHOOSE LUXURIES [5280 PICK] Big Agnes Rattlesnake SL2 mtnGlo tent, $349 At just under four pounds, this tent is made of a nifty nylon material that keeps warmth in and rain out. But the Steamboat Springs company also upped the tent ante by building LED strips into the body seams. Brilliant! bigagnes.com [5280 PICK] Kifaru Slick Bag, $340 to $498 Stitched in Wheat Ridge, the Slick Bag comes in long and wide options. Synthetic Climashield Apex insulation keeps sleepers toasty; a central zipper makes for easy egress; and armor-tough fabric stands up well to rough use. kifaru.net [5280 PICK] Scott G2 fly rod, $745 (4-weight) Like all Scott rods, the G2, handcrafted in Montrose, is ideal for stealth raids…

Blue Mesa Reservoir

Small waves smack the side of the boat as we pick up speed. I relish the rush of wind in my hair, the heat of the afternoon sun, and the misty spray of water coming over the bow. If I close my eyes against the view of soaring cliffs—and ignore the cool high-elevation air—I can pretend I’m on a catamaran in the Caribbean. Instead, I blink my eyes open and take in glistening Blue Mesa Reservoir from our rented pontoon. It’s late summer,1 and my husband and I hadn’t found the time or budget for a sorely needed beach vacation. So we settled on a long weekend trip to a sight we’d always wanted to visit—the largest body of water in Colorado, located about 10 miles southwest of Gunnison—and let…

Blue Mesa Reservoir

Chicago Basin Nearest town: Durango The $95.23 you’ll pay for a roundtrip ticket (plus $10 each way for your backpack) on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad is well worth the lift into the heart of the Weminuche Wilderness. Serious backpackers should start from Durango in the morning, hop offat the Needleton stop, hike a steep handful of miles on the Needle Creek Trail, and set up camp among the bucolic basin’s plentiful mountain goats and sheep. Spend a few days enjoying the scenery and summiting the three nearby fourteeners: Sunlight and Windom peaks and Mt. Eolus. Hike back to the tracks to wave down the afternoon train to Durango (upon departure, you’ll confirm your pickup date with the staff). Free, fs.usda.gov/sanjuan; durangotrain.com/wilderness-access Echo Park Campground Nearest town: Dinosaur…

RULE NO. 4 BIG GROUPS REQUIRE ADVANCED PLANNING

Mueller State Park, near Colorado Springs If you missed your window for reserving one of the 11 RV-only sites in Pisgah Point, a designated group campground, consider trying to secure adjacent campsites in one of Mueller’s six other camping areas. Typical sites hold six people each—and with 121 options, you could hit the jackpot, especially if your dates are flexible. Call 719- 687-2366 to book a group site; visit cpw.state.co.us or call 1-800-678- 2267 for all other camping inquiries Saddlehorn Campground, Colorado National Monument Communing with western Colorado’s red-rock landscape is magical— and this is the spot to do it. Saddlehorn is the only established campground in the national monument, and although it only has 80 sites, each one allows seven people, three tents, and two vehicles. Sites in B Loop are…

RULE NO. 4 BIG GROUPS REQUIRE ADVANCED PLANNING

Take a look around. See the buildings, the cars, the wide-lane roads, the construction cranes. Now imagine a place untouched by development, unmarked by human hands, bereft of concrete highways—where clouds outnumber people and skies are unbroken by metal beams. a By creating a federal system for identifying and protecting public lands, the 1964 Wilderness Act ensured that areas like these would survive and would be notable for what they lack: new mining projects, residential or commercial development, motor vehicle usage, and most roads. Today there are 44 federally protected wilderness areas in Colorado that cover more than 3.7 million acres (roughly the size of Connecticut). These are places where our great rivers spring from snowmelt, where glaciers once carved valleys out of rock like it was soft clay, where…

The sign at the Denny Creek trailhead in the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness laid out the basics: The path ahead rose 4,337 feet over 4.59 miles. There would be wildlife and strong winds. The views, the sign guaranteed, would be spectacular. I read the fine print and jokingly asked my husband, Chris, “Do you think we’ll make it?” Of course we wouldn’t. While most people journey to the Collegiate Peaks to climb up, up, up, we were hoping just to get reasonably far from the parking lot. Our son Oliver, then two and a half years old, buzzed wiThenergy after a nap, but there was only so far his tiny legs could walk—and only so far we were willing to carry him back down the trail. We decided to go for…

ALTERNATE ROUTE Coloradans love to play outside. We hike. We bike. We ski. We camp. If it can be done in the open air, count us in. But that passion for the great outdoors—plus 77.7 million annual visitors—means that many of the state’s most beloved spots, such as Hanging Lake, Rocky Mountain National Park, and the Maroon Bells–Snowmass Wilderness, are experiencing overcrowding, which not only hinders our ability to find solitude but also damages the environments we cherish. In an attempt to spread the love, and therefore lessen the impact, the Colorado Tourism Office (CTO) launched the Colorado Field Guide in May. The online trip planner features a collection of more than 20 curated but customizable itineraries—daily suggestions include recommendations for three activities, three meals, and lodging—that send explorers to…

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